Is my clutch going or does OEM suck this bad?

[LSCyaL8R]

So I get the feeling that my clutch is on it's way out.

As it stands right now I don't have any slippage in normal driving. Nor do I have any issues at full throttle. Also, if i sidestep the clutch at 2,500RPM or so I'll leave two long black lines just as I should.

My problems are as follows.

If I DON'T sidestep and just quickly let the clutch out it will slip. I'll be fully off the pedal and the RPM's won't drop till the speed catches up.

While running a 1/4 mi. pass I'll notice that upon shifting to the next gear the car will "float" down into the RPM it should be at. It's not a huge long slip but it IS noticeable at the track. (Part of me thinks that this could just be the hydraulic fluid not returning quickly enough and delaying full engagement, but that's probably wishful drill mod thinking)

Lastly, my clutch engagement point is roughly halfway through pedal travel. I don't reach full engagement till literally the TOP of travel. That feels rather disconcerting to me.

I have basis for comparison as well. My Saturn only has 48k easy driven miles on it and the engagement point is close to the bottom of travel. The clutch reaches full engagement just past the middle of the pedal travel. This feels more "right" to me.

Am I just imagining things or am I living on borrowed time? If I am on borrowed time.... which I sadly believe I am.... Where do I go from here?

I am beefing up the entire driveline in anticipation of an eventual engine swap. In the near future I plan on getting a rear end and a driveshaft. Already have the shocks, springs, LCA's and drag bags back there. Going to swap the PHB rear and TA at the same time.

I also plan on getting a new built T-56 before I get to the engine as well.

Question is. If I do need a clutch would I be well served to buy a high quality clutch/flywheel combo at this point? Could I simply reuse them when I swap the engine/transmission? (Haven't dealt with clutches before. So this kind of information is new and relevant to me)

If the answer is yes then keep in mind I plan on getting a low compression texas speed LS3 and then procharging it. I'm guessing a combo like that would be good for north of 700 flywheel hp. That's the dream... realistically I'm prolly looking to run 11.5 because I don't want a cage in the car lol.

Sorry for the long post. I wanted to try and cover all the bases here so there won't be a lot of back and forth trying to figure out what it is I'm dealing with/looking for.

Thanks All.

[Aetos]

If you don't want to spend too much money on a clutch, just buy the LS7 clutch kit, they go for around the $400 range for the clutch, ls2 flywheel, and pressure plate. On the weight of our cars, they can reliably hold close to 450rwhp, but may start slipping at that point. For the price, you really can't get better. It's what I put into my car when I first got it. Best of all, it keeps stock clutch feel and drivability.

If you want to spend a bit more, look into the monster stage 3 clutch; around 800ish dollars, but they can hold 700+

Also, do yourself a favor and buy a tick-performance adjustable master cylinder, will make your clutch hydraulics 5000000000% better.

[LSCyaL8R]

The tick master cylinder is most assuredly on my list If I'm planning on going all out with everything else leaving the master cylinder in there would be tragic.

[35th-ANV-SS]

Agreed with Aetos on the Monster Stage 3 and Tick adjustable MC. You can even look into Textralia clutches. As a last choice I would look at Spec.

You DO NOT want a LS7 clutch with a LS3 engine that is Procharged. It's won't hold that much torque. I'd go right for the beefed up clutch. Wouldn't make sense to put in a LS7 clutch just to swap it out again later after your mods are complete. I don't have experience with Monster or Text clutches, but I've heard numerous good things. I personally have the Spec Stage 3+ clutch in my car and it chatters coming off the line most of the time, which is a known issue with Spec clutches. Other than that though, the clutch grabs great and the peddle feels almost like the stock OEM peddle did.

Ideally, you would want to put in your new clutch when you do the transmission upgrade. This way you save on labor

I'm interested to see what others have to say about your other questions.

[LSCyaL8R]

by save on labor do you mean one less weekend of busted knuckles

I actually plan on driving this car to Tennessee in either late July or early August. Knowing it's good for the roughly 24 hours round trip of driving would be a great relief.

Monster clutches eh? I'll have to give a looksie. and start reading up on how to get this job done. wow... clutch driveshaft and rear this summer.... my poor tires/T-56

[natews6]

Whatever you do don't just put a high dollar clutch in it and expect to be done with it! Defiantly get the tick MC or drill mod it. I bought my car just after the t56 was rebuilt and they put a SPEC 3 clutch in it with no other upgrades... now it takes 3+ seconds to shift when RPMs are above 4500! hate it

[rc74racer]

I agree no LS7 if you are going to do FI it won't hold. Remember it's made for a 500hp at the crank car that is much lighter. Skip a SPEC clutch too there are a bunch of posts about them read up. I'm not quite sure why everyone is so quick to dump their MC for an adjustable one or recommend it because most simply don't need it. If you have a 98-00 car your MC sucks just get one for an 01/02 do the drill mod and you should be fine. I did and haven't had a problem in 3yrs since. I personally would get a textralia or McLeod but they are more expensive. I just believe in spending the $$$ and doing things once. If your goal is 700hp you will need a very good clutch.

[LSCyaL8R]

well.... I'd LIKE to make that kind of power but also would like to be legal on the track without a cage. I also like to drive my car around town and that means the occasional person in the back seat. Since I'll be more likely to have someone out back than be at the track i'm shooting for 11.5 Something tells me it doesn't take 700hp to get an f-body into the mid 11's

Though i'd like it to be bulletproof at that speed. so it's likely a NA LS3 would do the trick.

[35th-ANV-SS]

by save on labor do you mean one less weekend of busted knuckles

I actually plan on driving this car to Tennessee in either late July or early August. Knowing it's good for the roughly 24 hours round trip of driving would be a great relief.

Monster clutches eh? I'll have to give a looksie. and start reading up on how to get this job done. wow... clutch driveshaft and rear this summer.... my poor tires/T-56

Well you wouldn't have to drop the transmission twice I vote Textralia if you have the coin. I kept my 02 master cylinder and I've been fine.

[LSCyaL8R]

the 970 text or the 1200 text exo!!! heh heh... go big or go home right? though dropping 2500 on a clutch just seems excessive

[rc74racer]

It won't cost that much, but it will run over a 1k. Your clutch is definitely going so you will need one soon. If it were me i'd decide what my long term goals are and get the appropriate set up. There is nothing worse than spending money twice because you didn't plan appropriately.

[Baluchitherium]

There is nothing worse than spending money twice because you didn't plan appropriately.

If there was ever a quote that should be stickied, THIS is it!!

[LSCyaL8R]

That's why I'm thinking about the 1200 dollar text. it's a step up from the $970 one and they claim it's every bit as streetable. It'll hold anything I'll ever throw at it. Still expensive. lol

[Cutlass]

Before you drop a bunch of money on a clutch, try the drill mod. I think it might solve some your problems if not all of them

[TACE02]

That's why I'm thinking about the 1200 dollar text. it's a step up from the $970 one and they claim it's every bit as streetable. It'll hold anything I'll ever throw at it. Still expensive. lol

PM sent!!!

[98ramairguy]

Is there a sticky on the drill mod?

[Cutlass]

McLeod Master Cylinder and Drill Mod Install: www.InstallUniversity.com