Is my clutch going?

[goof4080]

I know this may sound dumb, but I still have yet to own a car when a clutch goes out so I really don't know what to expect.

I know my slave is weak and leaks a tiny bit BC I've had it go to the floor once in 20k miles. I simply filled it up, pumped 200 times and let it gravity bleed for a few days. (That factory bleeder is a pain!) And actually the pedal was really soft the other day (10k miles later) so I just did the same thing and its back to the usual. But wow is it weaker compared to my bros terminator cable driven t56! Haha

Anyways. How do I know if my clutch is going? All I've noticed is it has had some chatter, but I feel chatter is slowly getting worse. Also its been 15k miles since I've tried...but I've never been able to dump it in 2nd and spin anything but clutch on street tires.

Any help guys n gals?

[goof4080]

Guess I should add I believe its a stock clutch on my 98 ta with 57k miles. Was stock til 500 miles ago and now its full bolt ons and thinking about a cam in the very near future.

[SMWS6TA]

Are you the original owner? If you're the second or third it's possible the previous owner abuse the shit out of it. So @ 57k miles you're in the realm of of being due.

Most will see a slippage while shifting or gear grinding.


Issues like not being able to slide in smoothly or constant grinding are mostly forks and syncros going bad. This again ties into just how bad it was abused on and it could also be an issue that will need to be addressed. A few members have had to change their clutches out at 25k miles.


The leaking slave - this is an issue you need to fix, IMHO asap. Not only is leaking fluid bad enough, but the fluid could actually get on the fly wheel and clutch disk = very bad. Also because of the tear in the seal the more you use it the more it will tear open over time to the point you'll not be able to shift.

I stayed with the OEM one, one of the few good OEM products on our cars. gmpartsdirect.com has decent prices as well as our other vendors.


Opinions for what kind of clutch to look for vary as much as header opinions. I use a LS7 kit (comes with new fly wheel, clutch disk & pressure plate), goes for around $500. It's worth it, handles 500 rwhp and around 500+ ft lbs of torque. Others like Monster and Spec.

IMHO the LS7 is great for mild mods and even DD cars. If you are going to a fully built track car then one of the other clutches that are twin disk, high performing are what you are looking for.



On another issue you kinda hinted at - after you get the tranny issues fix you stated you wanted to do H/C/I. If you really want to build it right, look at doing the suspension and a 9" or 12 bolt rear. That way when you do the power mods your drive train is able to handle the power thrown at it. Otherwise it won't be long after the power mods you'll be asking why my stock rear has grenade and I'm stranded.

[goof4080]

Well I've already completely built my suspension minus front a arms with chromoly umi parts including torque arm and sfcs. Im anticipating doing the rear as well but since its its my weekend/track car I don't really mind if it blows up first.

I am most likely 3rd owner and I'm sure its seen some abuse. For a while when it was cold I was seeing a minor lil grind into 3/4 but haven't seen that in years now. So hopefully.it was just issues with my slave that somehow fixed themselves after I found the reservoir empty. Cuz after I filled it up its been full for 15k miles...

I probably will do a clutch soon anyways...ls7 sounds like a good stock upgrade as I probably won't see over 500 HP anytime on this engine. An blown 6.0 sounds like an awesome project down the road tho! (Remember I now have a bro with a terminator i will be chasing....)

What does clutch slippage while shifting gears feel like? The only other thing I could imagine would be giving it gas in gear and watching the revs go and the car not.

Thanks!

[goof4080]

All my current mods are: umi.moly phb, lcas, full length torque arm, relocation bracket, sfcs, strano springs n sways, konis, ls6 intake and valley cover, a.c delete, tsp 1 7/8 LTs ORY, SLP powerflo catback , volant Cai, mild tune before headers n intake.

[SMWS6TA]

you describe what a slippage fells looks like with the rpms, you'll fell it too like that. The motor revving but a hesitation in moving. Hard take offs will definitely feel it.


A 6.0 with LS3 heads, FAST 102 LS3 Intake and the right cam will put you in the 500's and will give a Termi a serious run for his money. Go Turbo or Supercharger and with a 408ci bore and you're looking at some serious power.

I have a LQ4 short block in storage waiting for my 3 other projects to get done. My plans are between staying stock internals with an exception to the pistons, I have LS2 pistons that I'm going to swap out to get the compression up. I also plan on LS3 heads and intake with this build. If I choose this way it will give me time to save up for a 408 build Or just go all out on the 408 build and stay with my LS1 till it's ready, one negative is that it will take a yr for me to accumulate all the parts. 408 builds are some serious $$$. Look around $3500 once it's all done.



There's a guy I've seen at the track that has a Lq9 block, forge 408 build no FI and is killing guys at the track. All the termis in the area piss their pants when he rolls up to the line.

I really want to have "Snake Killer" on the back window just to let them know

[04yellowjacket]

i got my ls7 clutch package for 385.00$ off ebay. just make sure they are a reputable dealer.