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Master Cylinder for a Monster Clutch

This is a discussion on Master Cylinder for a Monster Clutch within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; is the RAM adjustible master cylider good? I am replacing my factory clutch with a Moster Clutch Stage 3(premium package/steel ...

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    Master Cylinder for a Monster Clutch

    is the RAM adjustible master cylider good?
    I am replacing my factory clutch with a Moster Clutch Stage 3(premium package/steel flywheel) in my 99 WS6 and so i need some info on the drill mod too..
    Last edited by Cutlass; 09-26-2010 at 05:37 AM. Reason: removed non-sponsor direct links

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    Member marksls1ta's Avatar
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    black
    1998 trans am

    the tick is a better master from all the reviews.

    Thanks,
    Mark


    also they are $299 shipped.

    I can also get you a monster and am a sponsor on here as well.

    Thanks,
    Mark

    KYSpeed.com | FREE SHIPPING & HANDLING | PRICE MATCH | EMAIL

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
    2001 Silverado Z71

    Quote Originally Posted by BashamWS6 View Post
    is the RAM adjustible master cylider good?
    I am replacing my factory clutch with a Moster Clutch Stage 3(premium package/steel flywheel) in my 99 WS6 and so i need some info on the drill mod too..
    if you get the tick master, you won't need to do the drill mod.

  4. #4
    Member bberretta's Avatar
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    Bright Red
    2000 TA Firehawk 0041/742

    Tick Master FTW. It's a great, quality part and easy to install. Don't forget the speed bleeder! The Tick speed bleeder is a must install. It'll make your life SOOOO much easier.
    2000 Pontiac Firehawk #0041 of 742

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    2000 Trans Am

    Tick MC here as well. Solved alot of headaches for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bberretta View Post
    Tick Master FTW. It's a great, quality part and easy to install. Don't forget the speed bleeder! The Tick speed bleeder is a must install. It'll make your life SOOOO much easier.
    forgive my lack of knowledge...whats the purpose of a speed bleeder?
    and how much will those run me?


    mark-i understand that im probably annoying you with all of this uncertainty. but i got two tickets last week and this is messing with my pocketbook...so im trying to figure the list of parts i can get while still being able to afford insurance.
    Last edited by BashamWS6; 09-26-2010 at 08:06 PM.

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    and forgive me Cutlass...
    i thought they were a sponsor

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
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    Quote Originally Posted by BashamWS6 View Post
    and forgive me Cutlass...
    i thought they were a sponsor
    No problem. No hard feelings here.

    The speed bleeder is suppose to may bleeding the air out of the hydraulics easier because it is easier to access the remotely mounted bleeder screw. However, IMHO its is far easier to use a mity vac to bleed the system through the reservoir.
    The Speed Bleeder would make it easier to flush the hydraulic fluid clean because it is easier to access. You do have to remove the transmission to install the Speed Bleeder
    So it up to you to decide whether you want one or not.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    No problem. No hard feelings here.

    The speed bleeder is suppose to may bleeding the air out of the hydraulics easier because it is easier to access the remotely mounted bleeder screw. However, IMHO its is far easier to use a mity vac to bleed the system through the reservoir.
    The Speed Bleeder would make it easier to flush the hydraulic fluid clean because it is easier to access. You do have to remove the transmission to install the Speed Bleeder
    So it up to you to decide whether you want one or not.
    They actually dont want you to use a mity vac on tick master cylinders. They pull air at a much lower vaccuum. I think a conventional bleed is all they say you should do. With that said I bench bleed first, hook it all up, conventional bleed, and then apply the mity vac with low vaccuum (~7).

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2000 View Post
    They actually dont want you to use a mity vac on tick master cylinders. They pull air at a much lower vaccuum. I think a conventional bleed is all they say you should do. With that said I bench bleed first, hook it all up, conventional bleed, and then apply the mity vac with low vaccuum (~7).
    well i definantly do not want to remove my transmission just to install a speedbleeder...

    2000--what is this process you speak of??

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    Quote Originally Posted by BashamWS6 View Post
    well i definantly do not want to remove my transmission just to install a speedbleeder...

    2000--what is this process you speak of??
    Conventional bleeding? Just when its in the car and you pump it up with the pedal and then crack the bleeder. Obviously theres more to it than that but its a bit lengthy to type. Im betting if you did a search you would find some good stuff on it. If you get a Tick MC it has instructions with it too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2000 View Post
    Conventional bleeding? Just when its in the car and you pump it up with the pedal and then crack the bleeder. Obviously theres more to it than that but its a bit lengthy to type. Im betting if you did a search you would find some good stuff on it. If you get a Tick MC it has instructions with it too.
    alright. thanks

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    Member bberretta's Avatar
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    I'm confused- aren't you replacing the clutch? You have to drop the trans to get the clutch replaced so why not just install the speed bleeder while you have it down?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bberretta View Post
    I'm confused- aren't you replacing the clutch? You have to drop the trans to get the clutch replaced so why not just install the speed bleeder while you have it down?
    Yes, it would be the opportune time to do it. I just have a small hole in my trans tunnel to make bleeding an easy, one man job. Best of both worlds in my eyes. everything is done from the inside of the car as long as you keep an eye on the fluid resovoir.

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    well i was going to let a mechanic do the clutch and do the tick mc myself. i dont really trust myself with that kind of work.. but now that it occured to me that im a dumbass..
    thanks for pointing out my teenage stupidity lol

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    Member bberretta's Avatar
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    Hell, if you can do the tick, you can do a clutch. The hardest part is pulling the transmission and putting it back in- really sucks when you're doing it by yourself! Get a buddy to help and get all your parts together- it's really not all that bad. Take your time and don't try to rush it.

    I learned how to fix cars by buying a 1970 Chevelle that everything broke on. You'd be amazed how fast you'll learn when you're sitting on the side of the interstate trying to trace electrical issues while trucks soar by and the rain is pouring down!

    Good luck!

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    Quote Originally Posted by bberretta View Post
    Hell, if you can do the tick, you can do a clutch. The hardest part is pulling the transmission and putting it back in- really sucks when you're doing it by yourself! Get a buddy to help and get all your parts together- it's really not all that bad. Take your time and don't try to rush it.

    I learned how to fix cars by buying a 1970 Chevelle that everything broke on. You'd be amazed how fast you'll learn when you're sitting on the side of the interstate trying to trace electrical issues while trucks soar by and the rain is pouring down!

    Good luck!
    ahh thanks for the these inspiring words to help me with my confidence...
    lol well. i was actually considering about buying a 97 TA with a bent rod.. looked sharp and i was considering it for a project car. but after looking around...i found a bunch a semifinished Chevelles and Monte Carlos and Camaros and Firebirds etc. and i would like to see what all i can teach myself...its amazing what all ive learned from this site...
    sometimes ppl make me feel like an idiot (and sometimes i am) but its all a possibility. my dads quite a help. so i might just see if he wants to spent a saturday tearing my car apart.

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    Member bberretta's Avatar
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    Some of the best times I've had with my dad have been working in the garage. I'm 35 and still love going to my dad's shop and work with him. He taught me the most important lesson ever when it comes to fixing stuff:

    I had a motorcycle that I had custom painted and while admiring the art I said "There's no way I could do that." When my dad asked why I couldn't have done it I told him "Because I'd screw it up." His answer: "It's only paint. You strip it down and start over."

    Don't be afraid of screwing something up as long as you understand you're the one who has to fix it! Almost the entire clutch swap can be summed up as a simple take bolts out, swap out new parts, put bolts back in. When you look at it that way it's not near as intimidating a job! Read through some of the forum posts and make sure you are aware of the "gotcha's" like what a pain removing the pilot bearing is (hint: get a dremel and grind out notches at 9 and 3 o'clock so that it'll come out). And don't be afraid to ask questions!

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    Quote Originally Posted by bberretta View Post
    Some of the best times I've had with my dad have been working in the garage. I'm 35 and still love going to my dad's shop and work with him. He taught me the most important lesson ever when it comes to fixing stuff:

    I had a motorcycle that I had custom painted and while admiring the art I said "There's no way I could do that." When my dad asked why I couldn't have done it I told him "Because I'd screw it up." His answer: "It's only paint. You strip it down and start over."

    Don't be afraid of screwing something up as long as you understand you're the one who has to fix it! Almost the entire clutch swap can be summed up as a simple take bolts out, swap out new parts, put bolts back in. When you look at it that way it's not near as intimidating a job! Read through some of the forum posts and make sure you are aware of the "gotcha's" like what a pain removing the pilot bearing is (hint: get a dremel and grind out notches at 9 and 3 o'clock so that it'll come out). And don't be afraid to ask questions!
    now thats inspiration. next weekend im replacing half of the interior and buy christmas i plan to have it all wraped/painted/replaced. figured i should start simple...real simple...
    the exhaust...ive never have had to weld anything in my life so...i figure welding $1000 pipes isnt the best way to learn. and my dad says he isnt much better. but i might see if hell wanna help me put in a clutch kit, MC, Speedbleeder and a Pro 5.0.
    Surely i can manage the SLP Air Lid (yes i kno you have to heat it to fit it in the...MAF i believe) in only 30-45...maybe an hour for my noob ass

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    Quote Originally Posted by BashamWS6 View Post
    now thats inspiration. next weekend im replacing half of the interior and buy christmas i plan to have it all wraped/painted/replaced. figured i should start simple...real simple...
    the exhaust...ive never have had to weld anything in my life so...i figure welding $1000 pipes isnt the best way to learn. and my dad says he isnt much better. but i might see if hell wanna help me put in a clutch kit, MC, Speedbleeder and a Pro 5.0.
    Surely i can manage the SLP Air Lid (yes i kno you have to heat it to fit it in the...MAF i believe) in only 30-45...maybe an hour for my noob ass
    I didnt have to heat my SLP lid? Haha. By the time your done with this car, you're gonna be a pro. I never had anyone teach me everything. I just learned as I went.

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