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LS7 clutch kit info for your F-body

This is a discussion on LS7 clutch kit info for your F-body within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; The suspension parts were on sale for a week that is why they went up. the clutches went up from ...

  1. #41
    Member marksls1ta's Avatar
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    1998 trans am

    The suspension parts were on sale for a week that is why they went up.

    the clutches went up from my dealer also.

    Thanks,
    Mark

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  2. #42
    Member svt_eater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bberretta View Post
    Here you go:

    Making the plunge to a Double DIN

    I posted a bunch of pics and a pdf template for the brackets. I will most likely go back and re-do the brackets with thicker sheetmetal.
    Beautiful work! I had no idea it could look that good. I too love the logo. Reminds me of the factory Vette DD.

  3. #43
    Member bberretta's Avatar
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    Bright Red
    2000 TA Firehawk 0041/742

    Quote Originally Posted by marksls1ta View Post
    The suspension parts were on sale for a week that is why they went up.

    the clutches went up from my dealer also.

    Thanks,
    Mark
    Mark- I meant nothing negative toward you or KYSpeed- you're one of the best vendors I've ever dealt with and appreciate the time you dedicate to making sure your customers are treated right and leave happy. I just think it sucks that in this economy UMI has gone up as much as they have. I assume it's mostly on the supplier end, but it's bad that they end up leaving their vendors to have to explain 15-30% markups since November. Once again, thanks for all the great service in the past and I look forward to buying all my suspension stuff from you this summer.

  4. #44
    Member marksls1ta's Avatar
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    No problem

    thanks for the kind words also.

    look forward to doing business with you in the future.

    Thanks,
    Mark

  5. #45
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    2000 trans am ws6

    has anyone heard of the ls9x clutch i saw it here on the website http://katechengines.com/katech_inc/...-ls2ls3ls7.htm

    i was wondering if it my 2000 trans am

  6. #46
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    black
    1998 camaro

    Price

    does this come with everything and is it a good price
    http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...c6ls7clutchkit


    Thanks

  7. #47
    Member bberretta's Avatar
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    Bright Red
    2000 TA Firehawk 0041/742

    You still need the slave cylinder, pilot and throwout bearings, and I'd suggest upgrading the master cylinder as well. One other thing to get is an alignment tool- got mine at a local parts store for less than $4.
    2000 Pontiac Firehawk #0041 of 742

  8. #48
    Member bsteff's Avatar
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    2002 SS/SLP #7704

    Will the LS7 clutch hold 400RWHP as a dialy driver? Or should I look for something else?

  9. #49
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
    2001 Silverado Z71

    Quote Originally Posted by bsteff View Post
    Will the LS7 clutch hold 400RWHP as a dialy driver? Or should I look for something else?
    ls7 clutch will work fine for 400rwhp

  10. #50
    Member 98ramairguy's Avatar
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    1998 Trans am WS6

    I have a 98 Trans am in need of a new clutch. I know the Ls7 has more than enough holding power for what I am getting at the rear wheels. My questions is about the flywheel. I want to upgrade to an aluminum or a billet steel one. From what I understand both will be much lighter than my stock one. When I get a LS7 clutch do I need to get a LS2 or LS7 flywheel or can I use an LS1 flywheel. There is no price difference I just want to make sure I have all the right parts. Thanks for your help I know this is an old thread

  11. #51
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Most vendors sell them as a kit. I got mine from KYSpeed. Cost $500 at the time. It comes with new fly wheel, pressure plate & clutch. IIRC it came with the LS2 flywheel. The difference is thickness of the plate. I believe all GM flywheels are made of steel, except special order items.

    Ive been very happy with mine.

    Items recommend to do now if funds availible:

    New gm slave cylinder. Best to do it not vs later
    Speed bleeder from Tick Performance
    Tick Master Cylinder - if you plan on upgrading the mc this is the best option. GM's mc has it's issues. The other reason is with the LS7 clutch it is self adjusting as it wears. Ppl have reported having issues with the Tick mc & LS7 clutch that has had wear. If the mc is installed at the same time as the clutch, no issues.

    Difference between AL vs steel. Need to ask yourself is it really worth it? What I mean is can the money be spent on something else. Having an aluminum flywheel is nice but if you only go to the track every so often then not really worth it.

  12. #52
    Member 98ramairguy's Avatar
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    Whats the main difference between billet steel vs aluminum vs stock flywheel?

    Will my original MC work ok with the new LS7 set-up? Unil I can spend another $350 on a Tick MC?

    I am planning on getting a slave cylinder does that have to be a LS1 or LS7/2 when I order?

  13. #53
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
    2001 Silverado Z71

    Quote Originally Posted by 98ramairguy View Post
    Whats the main difference between billet steel vs aluminum vs stock flywheel?
    Weight and strength. Light flywheels rev up faster, heavy flywheels carry more momentum (ie easier street driving)
    Quote Originally Posted by 98ramairguy View Post
    Will my original MC work ok with the new LS7 set-up? Unil I can spend another $350 on a Tick MC?
    Yes
    Quote Originally Posted by 98ramairguy View Post
    I am planning on getting a slave cylinder does that have to be a LS1 or LS7/2 when I order?
    Stock LS1 for your car. Get a GM one, not some cheap aftermarket one from Autozone.

  14. #54
    Member bberretta's Avatar
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    I've had my LS7 clutch kit for three years now and it's still holding strong (very little time at the track, almost all in city driving and 425 HP). Definitely go GM for the slave, as difficult as they are to change out (have to drop the trans and bell housing), I'd hate for to have to do the job a second time simply because some aftermarket slave cylinder decided to crap out on me. The only problem I've had is my GM throwout bearing squeaks.

    Don't forget to also get a rear main seal and housing gasket- might as well change it while you have the chance. The biggest pain is removing the pilot bearing. I ended up using a carbide bit on a dremel to grind out a notch in it so I could split it in half and it popped right out. Tried this after breaking two pilot bearing removal tools.

  15. #55
    Member 98ramairguy's Avatar
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    1998 Trans am WS6

    Does anyone know what the part number for just the LS7 clutch with pressure plate is? Its a nightmare trying to search gmpartsdirect without a part number

  16. #56
    Member 98ramairguy's Avatar
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    On the rear main seal is says there is a double lip and a triple lip. Which one do I get?

  17. #57
    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    I have done all the research and have been ordering parts and putting parts together so here is your list for gm parts direct-
    Ls7 clutch # pkc6ls7 $418.79 clutch package with flywheel
    Gm slave. # 24264180 $117.33
    Gm rear cover gasket. # 12639249 $15.07
    Gm rear main seal. # 89060436 $13.71
    Gm pilot bearing. # 14061685 $11.68
    ARP flywheel bolts- summit racing-- $32.13
    ARP pressure plate bolts - summit racing- $17.66
    Tick master cylinder - $324.99
    Tick speed bleeder - $49.99
    T56 inputshaft seal - sku1300-044-015 $14.99 - tick performance - tranny out change it also
    You are looking at just under $1,100.00 for everything with shipping.
    This should help you out

  18. #58
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
    2001 Silverado Z71

    I'm in the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it club." I don't see any need to change the rear main and trans input seal if they aren't leaking. Pilot bearing I'd probably change. I'd also skip the speed bleeder. The mity vac bleed at the reservoir works well.

  19. #59
    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    I'm in the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it club." I don't see any need to change the rear main and trans input seal if they aren't leaking. Pilot bearing I'd probably change. I'd also skip the speed bleeder. The mity vac bleed at the reservoir works well.
    On a car that is 14-15 yrs old and for less than $30 and a little more of my time, I'm in the only drop the Trans once and be done club

  20. #60
    Member 98ramairguy's Avatar
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    Perfect that will make things way easier

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