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LS7 clutch equivalent

This is a discussion on LS7 clutch equivalent within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; Hey guys, my stock clutch has got 120k on it, and it's time to throw it out the window. I ...

  1. #1
    rice,its what's fo dinner LeadFarmer's Avatar
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    LS7 clutch equivalent

    Hey guys, my stock clutch has got 120k on it, and it's time to throw it out the window.

    I plan on getting a 228R cam in about a month, but past that I don't plan on any more engine mods for awhile, since the car is a DD. I'd like to pick up a LS7 clutch kit, as it's in my price range, but I was wondering if there's anything aftermarket in the same price range. I don't wanna blow 700+ on a clutch i'm never gonna use the most out of (I go to the track once a year, maybe). So I just need something cheap and mild that's gonna last. I'm also considering getting a tick master cylinder soon after the clutch, and I've heard of issues with the ls7 clutch and tick combo(since the ls7 is self adjusting).

    Also, I'd really like to decrease my pedal travel, will getting a different clutch alone, solve this issue for me, or is a tick master the only way to go?
    M6, MS3 Cam, FAST 92/92, LS7 Clutch, Hurst Comp/Plus Shifter, Lid, K&N, OBX LT's, 3in ORX True Duals, KYB AGX shocks, BMR 3-Point SFCs, BMR springs, BMR Adj. PHR, LCA Relos, STB, 315 NT555Rs, DeepDish C5Z06s.

  2. #2
    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeadFarmer View Post
    Hey guys, my stock clutch has got 120k on it, and it's time to throw it out the window.

    I plan on getting a 228R cam in about a month, but past that I don't plan on any more engine mods for awhile, since the car is a DD. I'd like to pick up a LS7 clutch kit, as it's in my price range, but I was wondering if there's anything aftermarket in the same price range. I don't wanna blow 700+ on a clutch i'm never gonna use the most out of (I go to the track once a year, maybe). So I just need something cheap and mild that's gonna last. I'm also considering getting a tick master cylinder soon after the clutch, and I've heard of issues with the ls7 clutch and tick combo(since the ls7 is self adjusting).

    Also, I'd really like to decrease my pedal travel, will getting a different clutch alone, solve this issue for me, or is a tick master the only way to go?
    the tick is really the only way to decrease the pedal travel unless you get the ram adjustable master however the tick is heads above the stock unit as far as functionability goes.

    the ls7 and tick unit will work fine together as long as they are both new (some people even have success used) I have mine on a stock ls6 style clutch since it had 60 miles on it and its been great.

    the ls7 will also handle the 228 cam with no issues and it should be fine as long as you dont go to nuts with your car, however also take a look at the monster stage 1 you can get them on sale for $530 and it is a little better than an ls7 but still offers a stock feel. if youre really on a budget the ls7 is hard to beat

  3. #3
    rice,its what's fo dinner LeadFarmer's Avatar
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    would this kit work? Or do I need an ls2 flywheel instead?
    GM Performance 24255748 - GM Performance LSX/LS7 Clutch Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeadFarmer View Post
    no that kit wont work because as you said you need the ls2/3/7 flywheel theyre all the same lol but still different than the ls1 i think gmpartsdirect is the cheapest on the complete kit for like 420 plus shipping

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    rice,its what's fo dinner LeadFarmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbird555 View Post
    no that kit wont work because as you said you need the ls2/3/7 flywheel theyre all the same lol but still different than the ls1 i think gmpartsdirect is the cheapest on the complete kit for like 420 plus shipping
    yeh I thought so, I think I found it:GM Parts Direct: pkc6ls7clutchkit - LS7 Clutch Kit
    does this include to pressure plate? Also will I need a new pilot bearing, or can I reuse mine?

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    James Bond Spikito's Avatar
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    considering your plans for the car, the LS7 sounds perfect.

    Ive never heard of people having LS7/tick issues, I was under the impression that was the way to do it. thats what I did and have had zero issues in 2 years, and its my DD

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    James Bond Spikito's Avatar
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    i believe that kit comes with a pilot bearing and the pressure plate should be installed already. I got mine from kentucky speed and it came as one assembled unit.

  8. #8
    rice,its what's fo dinner LeadFarmer's Avatar
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    their kit is 90 more, do they price match?
    Last edited by LeadFarmer; 07-21-2012 at 01:18 PM.

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeadFarmer View Post
    their kit is 90 more, do they price match?
    you will be fine getting the kit from gm parts direct. the kit comes with the pressure plate and flywheel all ready to go just bolt it on i dont remember if it comes with a pilot bearing but even if it doesnt they are about 10 bucks at the local auto parts store and should always be replaced. also remember to pickup a new slave. remember too that the same slave you pick up at autozone under duralast at 60 bucks will be the SAME slave gm sells you for 160 it even has AP cast into it and made in mexico just like the oem does gm just repackages them and marks the price up

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    rice,its what's fo dinner LeadFarmer's Avatar
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    thanks, do I have to replace the slave though? mine has less than 10k miles on it. Also how long is the break in period on this things, and how should I drive it during that timeframe?

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeadFarmer View Post
    thanks, do I have to replace the slave though? mine has less than 10k miles on it. Also how long is the break in period on this things, and how should I drive it during that timeframe?
    if it only has 10k on it should be fine tis just a good insurance idea lol. as far as break in goes youll notice when the lucth is new it will grab close to the floor and after about 200 miles it will move up just go easy on it for a bit and do a lot of stop and go. but think about it this is the same clutch thats in the z06, c6 and camaro, do you see any of those people worry about break in time on their new car? hell most people go straight from the dealer to the track lol

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    rice,its what's fo dinner LeadFarmer's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. So what's a safe rpm to dump this clutch at for a brakestand or launch? I ask because anything higher than 1800rpm with my stock clutch would cause my pedal to stick. The LS7 should be able to grab from a higher rpm right? Or is that problem because of my MC/SC?

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeadFarmer View Post
    Thanks for the info. So what's a safe rpm to dump this clutch at for a brakestand or launch? I ask because anything higher than 1800rpm with my stock clutch would cause my pedal to stick. The LS7 should be able to grab from a higher rpm right? Or is that problem because of my MC/SC?
    Your car doesn't have enough power to launch it from a high RPM dump. Feathering the clutch out is your best bet.
    It's on jackstands.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I've done 2500, 3500, 4500 rpm dumps with my LS7 clutch at the track with Nittos 555 street tires and even with my suspension mods I get a lot of wheel spin at higher rpms. Haven't tried it yet with DR's, waiting for my rear to be finished.

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeadFarmer View Post
    Thanks for the info. So what's a safe rpm to dump this clutch at for a brakestand or launch? I ask because anything higher than 1800rpm with my stock clutch would cause my pedal to stick. The LS7 should be able to grab from a higher rpm right? Or is that problem because of my MC/SC?
    well you can dump the clutch at around 4k on street tires and they will just light up.... try that on the track and you will either hook and go or you may pop the rear. at the track a general fast slip from 3k or so on good tires ill be fine. the only reason your pedal is sticking now is because the fingers on the PP are worn, even a new stock clutch should take high rpm clutch dumps just fine

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    I've done 2500, 3500, 4500 rpm dumps with my LS7 clutch at the track with Nittos 555 street tires and even with my suspension mods I get a lot of wheel spin at higher rpms. Haven't tried it yet with DR's, waiting for my rear to be finished.
    It won't be any better. Drag radials suck at the track for launching. You'll need either a ET Street or Slick to get any decent 60' time.

    1.906 was the best I've been able to cut on DR's to date, which isn't much better than what I did with stock street tires

  17. #17
    rice,its what's fo dinner LeadFarmer's Avatar
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    so whether i'm on the street or strip, just rev to about 3k with the ls7 and dump it? or should I ease out of it? sorry for the noob questions, this is my first manual trans car. My z28 was a stalled auto, just stab and steer lol.

    Oh and I ordered the ls7 kit a couple days ago, so I should have installed by the end of the week/early next week. Can't wait to hit the track, I've never tracked a manual trans car before
    Last edited by LeadFarmer; 07-24-2012 at 10:01 PM.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbird555 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by LeadFarmer View Post
    Thanks for the info. So what's a safe rpm to dump this clutch at for a brakestand or launch? I ask because anything higher than 1800rpm with my stock clutch would cause my pedal to stick. The LS7 should be able to grab from a higher rpm right? Or is that problem because of my MC/SC?
    well you can dump the clutch at around 4k on street tires and they will just light up.... try that on the track and you will either hook and go or you may pop the rear. at the track a general fast slip from 3k or so on good tires ill be fine. the only reason your pedal is sticking now is because the fingers on the PP are worn, even a new stock clutch should take high rpm clutch dumps just fine
    I'm assuming you just mean the clutch will engage and grab? If so, I agree. My clutch grabs at any RPM I dump it at.

  19. #19
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I'm suggesting to NOT dump it. It won't go anywhere. You need to feather out of it. Try around 2500-3K.

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    James Bond Spikito's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I'm assuming you just mean the clutch will engage and grab? If so, I agree. My clutch grabs at any RPM I dump it at.
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