Just got my car back from shop, still having issues, help!

[GrdLock]

Ok I'll try to make this as short as possible, I just need some advice because the shop is telling me I have a bad clutch too, and they're refusing to take another look at the car unless it's to replace the clutch.

Basically I've been having clutch issues for a while now, sticky/loose pedal, whining noise (similar to a bad power steering pump). Finally the slave cylinder completely blew out and I lost the clutch completely, so I took it to the shop.

I bought a new master and slave for then to replace. I told them to replace both, but they only put the slave in. They said they did that because they were trying to save me money by letting me return the master, and that the clutch system was working just fine with just the slave.

Problem is, the clutch is slipping like crazy now. It's underivable. They're telling me my clutch is shot to hell.

I told them the clutch was still making the whining noise, which they said could be some bearing or something that will be fixed when they replace the clutch. They said there's absolutely nothing else that could possibly be wrong with it besides a blown clutch.

The two things that are making me not think that are this:

1) The clutch is fairly new, only 10,000 miles. It's a Spec stage 2. It worked perfectly fine before the slave cylinder completely blew out, no slipping at all. I don't see how the slave cylinder blowing out could completely destroy a 100% working clutch. Is that possible that the clutch would work great, then all of a sudden not work at all?

2) I had to move the car in the driveway this morning, and the pedal stuck on me about halfway down. I had to pull it up. Could the clutch (or some part of it) being bad cause the pedal to stick? That doesn't make sense to me... that would make me assume there's still something wrong with the hydraulics, even though the pedal seems firm now usually.

Basically I asked the guy if it was possible the clutch just isn't engaging completely, but he said no because it's a hydraulic system and there's no adjusting it - if you have a firm pedal and it's still slipping, it's a bad clutch. But now that the pedal has stuck on me a couple times, could it still be a problem with the hydraulics?

Any help would be appreciated. I just spend $650 getting the slave cylinder replaced, and if I have to get a new clutch that's gonna be another $750 or so, which I really can't afford right now.

[ReaperchildZ28]

Ok I'll try to make this as short as possible, I just need some advice because the shop is telling me I have a bad clutch too, and they're refusing to take another look at the car unless it's to replace the clutch.

Basically I've been having clutch issues for a while now, sticky/loose pedal, whining noise (similar to a bad power steering pump). Finally the slave cylinder completely blew out and I lost the clutch completely, so I took it to the shop.

I bought a new master and slave for then to replace. I told them to replace both, but they only put the slave in. They said they did that because they were trying to save me money by letting me return the master, and that the clutch system was working just fine with just the slave.

Problem is, the clutch is slipping like crazy now. It's underivable. They're telling me my clutch is shot to hell.

I told them the clutch was still making the whining noise, which they said could be some bearing or something that will be fixed when they replace the clutch. They said there's absolutely nothing else that could possibly be wrong with it besides a blown clutch.

The two things that are making me not think that are this:

1) The clutch is fairly new, only 10,000 miles. It's a Spec stage 2. It worked perfectly fine before the slave cylinder completely blew out, no slipping at all. I don't see how the slave cylinder blowing out could completely destroy a 100% working clutch. Is that possible that the clutch would work great, then all of a sudden not work at all?

2) I had to move the car in the driveway this morning, and the pedal stuck on me about halfway down. I had to pull it up. Could the clutch (or some part of it) being bad cause the pedal to stick? That doesn't make sense to me... that would make me assume there's still something wrong with the hydraulics, even though the pedal seems firm now usually.

Basically I asked the guy if it was possible the clutch just isn't engaging completely, but he said no because it's a hydraulic system and there's no adjusting it - if you have a firm pedal and it's still slipping, it's a bad clutch. But now that the pedal has stuck on me a couple times, could it still be a problem with the hydraulics?

Any help would be appreciated. I just spend $650 getting the slave cylinder replaced, and if I have to get a new clutch that's gonna be another $750 or so, which I really can't afford right now.

Ok this is a real $ problem ... Its either you hit the junk yark & get digging there.
Or
Doing it right once & for all (go to the experts) $$$$$$
Not to bad mouth spec clutchs <<<< get the hint, locally I personally have 3 friends with bad experience.

Get a new really good brand clutch Mnstr clutch stg 3 (I'm just sayin).
Master cylinder from tick perform 300$(best mod to ur tranny) & if ur still up for more d&d is a good place to start

[GrdLock]

Ok this is a real $ problem ... Its either you hit the junk yark & get digging there.
Or
Doing it right once & for all (go to the experts) $$$$$$
Not to bad mouth spec clutchs <<<< get the hint, locally I personally have 3 friends with bad experience.

Get a new really good brand clutch Mnstr clutch stg 3 (I'm just sayin).
Master cylinder from tick perform 300$(best mod to ur tranny) & if ur still up for more d&d is a good place to start

Well, the real thing is that if it IS a bad clutch, I'll come up with the money. My main thing though is, because of the reasons above, I have my doubts about the problem actually being the clutch, though, but rather still an issue with the hydraulics. But whenever I talk to the shop, they obviously know more about it than me so they can come up with an excuse for every reason I give them. So if there's any legitimacy to my worries, I need someone who knows more than me to explain how and what is possible, so I can tell that to the shop.

[ReaperchildZ28]

Well, the real thing is that if it IS a bad clutch, I'll come up with the money. My main thing though is, because of the reasons above, I have my doubts about the problem actually being the clutch, though, but rather still an issue with the hydraulics. But whenever I talk to the shop, they obviously know more about it than me so they can come up with an excuse for every reason I give them. So if there's any legitimacy to my worries, I need someone who knows more than me to explain how and what is possible, so I can tell that to the shop.

Ok I understand what your saying but remember that your a guy driving a stick with a bad choice of clutch !! The shop's best advice is to fully rebuild once & for all although (take it to the experts), a new clutch is required PERIOD, last clutch may have not been installed right or a lot of past tence scentences can be given ... NOW u need a new clutch KIT which includes pressure plate clutch disc & Master/slave cylinders ... Master cylinder typically not offered with the kit (tick perf master cylinder best) ... Pull the tranny with these parts in hand & your set to go =)

[GrdLock]

The clutch in it now is a Spec stage 2, full clutch kit with new flywheel, and it was installed by a very reputable board member who's done a lot of tranny work for others.

Oh well, we'll see what happens. I'm gonna be pissed if I get them to put in the new clutch and it still slips and whines. If I buy a new one I think I'm gonna get an LS7 clutch kit. Only $450 for the kit (like I said, money's tight!), and most people seem to be happy with them. I'd go Monster, but then I'll be out a good $900 after paying to have it installed as well.

[ReaperchildZ28]

The clutch in it now is a Spec stage 2, full clutch kit with new flywheel, and it was installed by a very reputable board member who's done a lot of tranny work for others.

Oh well, we'll see what happens. I'm gonna be pissed if I get them to put in the new clutch and it still slips and whines. If I buy a new one I think I'm gonna get an LS7 clutch kit. Only $450 for the kit (like I said, money's tight!), and most people seem to be happy with them. I'd go Monster, but then I'll be out a good $900 after paying to have it installed as well.

Shshshshshsh no1 talk about board members remember =p.
I still think its the poor quality of the clutch for some reason.
I'm running clutchmasters stage 4 for about 1 year & 2mnths & it broke my rear end last couple of months =D god damnit I'm gonna buy that 6 puck again if I had to =D ... !

[az gt eater]

The spec clutch is shallower than the factory clutch, and spec supplies a shim to put in behind the slave. Im sure the manual tranny expert that put the clutch in remembered to put that in. But it is food for thought. And +1 for the tick master. Im putting mine in soon. My spec stage 2 isnt disengaging completely. i think the master is the prob. If i were you, i would replace the master first.

[Cutlass]

1) The clutch is fairly new, only 10,000 miles. It's a Spec stage 2. It worked perfectly fine before the slave cylinder completely blew out, no slipping at all. I don't see how the slave cylinder blowing out could completely destroy a 100% working clutch. Is that possible that the clutch would work great, then all of a sudden not work at all?

did the slave blow hydraulic fluid all over the clutch?? that could ruin one.
If you do have the clutch replaced, keep the old one. It should be pretty easy to tell if its bad just by looking at it.

[INMY01TA]

Basically I've been having clutch issues for a while now, The clutch is fairly new, only 10,000 miles. It's a Spec stage 2.

Ever get this worked out yet?