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Ive tried everything to bleed the clutch

This is a discussion on Ive tried everything to bleed the clutch within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; I have tried everything I can to bleed the clutch, Ive pumped the pedal for hours to try to get ...

  1. #1
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    Ive tried everything to bleed the clutch

    I have tried everything I can to bleed the clutch, Ive pumped the pedal for hours to try to get it to return, I have done a normal bleed on it for hours, Ive tried to vacuum bleed it for hours, Ive tried to bench bleed it, and Ive tried to use a Mityvac on it. None of which has worked at all, yet it is still a vacuum silled system, and it does let fluid out through the bleeder valve. Does anyone have any ideas before I take it into a dealer to fix it tomorrow?

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    As you bleed it, is someone keeping the reservoir topped off with fresh fluid so that it does not suck air?

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    Yeah I was

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    Has the dealer looked at it yet? Sounds just like my Ranger when the master cylinder went out on it.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    What's it doing to make you think there is still air in the system?

    It doesn't take long at all to bleed, it's not that big of a hydraulic system. If you are worried about the clutch pedal staying down, that's normal during the bleeding process if you are using the pedal pump method and then cracking open the bleeder valve. Even after the air is gone, you still have to pull the pedal off the floor when you are finished. After that it should work as normal.

    I just bled mine a couple weeks ago, and prefer the pump method with my wife in the car. It's really the only way on a sealed system because there is no way I could get my mityvac on the bleeder screw anyway. It's recessed into the bellhousing.

    She pumps the pedal, then holds it to the floor, I crack the screw open for a second, I can hear the clutch re-engage the flywheel. I close the bleeder, and my wife has to grab the pedal to pull it back up. Then she pumps the pedal again, and it's the same procedure. After 2 times of this I lower the car and check the reservoir, because it doesn't hold much at all. Between that and the skinny short line along with the master and slave (which are small),,,,there really isn't much air to get out of there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    What's it doing to make you think there is still air in the system?

    It doesn't take long at all to bleed, it's not that big of a hydraulic system. If you are worried about the clutch pedal staying down, that's normal during the bleeding process if you are using the pedal pump method and then cracking open the bleeder valve. Even after the air is gone, you still have to pull the pedal off the floor when you are finished. After that it should work as normal.

    I just bled mine a couple weeks ago, and prefer the pump method with my wife in the car. It's really the only way on a sealed system because there is no way I could get my mityvac on the bleeder screw anyway. It's recessed into the bellhousing.

    She pumps the pedal, then holds it to the floor, I crack the screw open for a second, I can hear the clutch re-engage the flywheel. I close the bleeder, and my wife has to grab the pedal to pull it back up. Then she pumps the pedal again, and it's the same procedure. After 2 times of this I lower the car and check the reservoir, because it doesn't hold much at all. Between that and the skinny short line along with the master and slave (which are small),,,,there really isn't much air to get out of there.
    I even took it to a mechanic, and he cant figure it out. It just doesnt have much if any hydrolic pressure.

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Just curious, what's was the reason for bleeding it in the first place? Clutch swap, fluid swap?
    Last edited by tatertot91; 09-02-2011 at 03:44 PM.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    I do it for a fluid swap myself. I'm still a little unclear as to what the issue is for the original poster though.

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    I do it for a fluid swap myself. I'm still a little unclear as to what the issue is for the original poster though.
    Was a little unclear, comment was towards the OP haha

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    Quote Originally Posted by tatertot91 View Post
    Just curious, what's was the reason for bleeding it in the first place? Clutch swap, fluid swap?
    5th and 6th gear shift fork went bad, so I couldnt use either gear. So I rebuilt the Transmission.

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Did you replace any of the hydraulics while you were in there?

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    No I didnt touch any of them. I drove it in my garage, jacked up the car, and pulled out the trans. Before the hydraulics worked perfectly

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Just asking, never know how the slave and master might have held up during the repair

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    Yeah, I did remove the slave to remove the adapter plate. But I dont know what difference that would make..

  15. #15
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    What it sounds like to me, i'd start by swapping out the master and if it comes to the worst go in and change the slave

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    Okay thanks

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    I dont understand how the mity vac didnt work. it is so easy to use. I will describe the process for you assuming you dont know anything. And this is how i did it a few times. And i dont know anything, im a roofer for gods sake. Ok, fill the remote reservoir with fluid. Put the small 2 inch hose, then the cup, then the longer hose, then the the stepped tip on the mity vac. Put the stepped tip in the remote reservoir. You have to place it in the hole in the bottom. It will prob take you a little bit to fing the hole. (hair anyone?) Once you have it in the hole, pull on the mity vac about nine times to create suction. This should hold it firmly in the remote reservoir. Then go to the inside of your car and pump the clutch pedal 6 times. All the way up and down. Most likely by hand. Then, go back under the hood and remove the mity vac tip from the remote reservoir. Do NOT let the suction off, pull the tip out while it is under suction. Then top off the remote reservoir as needed to maintain it full. Then put the tip back in the hole, pull on the mity vac and pump it nine times. (You dont want to put too much suction on it, or you will pull seals.) You then go back in the car and pump the pedal another six times. Then remove the mity vac. Again, DONT let the suction off. Just pull it out. Keep repeating until you have the pressure in the pedal you need. This may take you a half hour. Dont give up right away, you have the best tool to do the job. And DONT release the pressure on the mity vac before you remove it from the remote reservoir. I changed my master cylinder and it took me a little while to get all the air out, but i kept at it, and learned to NOT release the suction before I pulled the mity vac out of the remote reservoir. Hope this helps, bud.

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    No problem, keep us updated on the situation

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    Will do

  20. #20
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    The slave was bad.

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