Issue torquing flywheel bolts....

**bad idea** · 08-16-2012, 04:23 PM

For starters, Hello, I am new to the forum. I have heard good things about this forum on LS1Tech.com.

I am in process of installing a new clutch in my 2002 Z28. I bought 6 new flywheel bolts from the local Chevy dealer. I torque them in the correct sequence to 15 ft/lb, then 37 ft/lb, then torque 3 bolts to 75 ft/lb. The fourth bolt would not torque though, it continued to spin. I pulled the bolt out and found it stretched close to the head of the bolt.

I removed one of the other bolts and threaded it into the hole in question. It did the same thing. Then I tried the bolt across from it and that bolt did the same thing. The bolt threaded cleanly in and out again. I am assuming it is one of two issues. Either the torque wrench went wildly out of cal on bolt four and failed to click, allowing me to continue tightening the fastener past it's yield point. Or I got three defective bolts from GM (the first bolt, then the two test bolts after that).

The torque wrench is a click type and has not been calibrated in a couple years. Then again, it is hard to believe a torque wrench went wildly out of cal in the middle of using it. It is also hard for me to believe three bolts are defective. Then again, a 50% fail rate may be one of the causes of GM needing a bailout.

Thoughts? Thanks for the help.

**2002ssslp** · 08-16-2012, 06:15 PM

Go to Sears and get the best torque wrench they have. Then buy a set of ARP flywheel bolts. Borrow the correct tap and tap the bolt holes and remember to use plenty of oil. Blow out the holes, use loc tight on the bolts and reinstall the flywheel using your new Sars torque wrench. When you are done, return the torque wrench to Sears and call it a day.

**0rion** · 08-17-2012, 07:11 AM

it's definitely possible for a torque wrench to fail mid use......I've had it happen. I bought a cheap one years ago and it pretty much became a fancy breaker bar while using it. What brand is the wrench?

**bad idea** · 08-17-2012, 10:11 AM

It is a C-man click type that has not been calibrated in approx 3 years.

I borrowed a Proto click type from work that was cal'd 2 weeks ago. I also bought new bolts. Lemme try this again tonight...

**0rion** · 08-17-2012, 10:14 AM

hopefully the threads aren't boogered up...might be worth it to chase those before starting.

**SuperSSguy** · 08-18-2012, 12:50 AM

ARP...got em good stuff!

**az gt eater** · 08-18-2012, 11:20 AM

Originally Posted by 0rion

hopefully the threads aren't boogered up...might be worth it to chase those before starting.

Double this. Always worth the extra time to make sure a very hard to replace part doesn't have to be replaced. (like when I screwed up an exhaust manifold hole in my head.) Oh, wait, make that two holes. Hello, exhaust leak.

**Smittro** · 08-19-2012, 02:53 AM

Use a good tap from MAC or Snap-on too (if you don't already own their sets).

Even if it's the only tap you have from them..

Snaping a cheap tap off in your crank would'nt be fun.

Just my.02

**2002ssslp** · 08-19-2012, 09:42 AM

Originally Posted by Smittro

Use a good tap from MAC or Snap-on too (if you don't already own their sets).

Even if it's the only tap you have from them..

Snaping a cheap tap off in your crank would'nt be fun.

Just my.02

^^^ What he just said. Nothing makes you want to crawl inside a bottle of Jack then hearing and feeling a cheap tap snap. F**K, I just felt the douche chills remembering a time when I snapped a tap chasing a crank balancer bolt hole. F**king harbor freight cheap crap. Mac Tools or Snap On only.

**bad idea** · 08-25-2012, 05:33 PM

I borrowed a Proto torque wrench that was recently calibrated from work and bought six new bolts. Worked like a charm. Got the trans in and the car shifts smooth now. Fantastic.