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  1. #1
    Senior Member OnEbAdReDSS's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro SS # 5,876

    Hydraulic Clutch Fluid flush...

    Anyone do it before?? if so how... i might have to get it done by the stealership 170 for everything

  2. #2
    SS#430 1 of 74 7camaro7's Avatar
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    Pewter
    02SS6spd VERT!

    you can do it... all you need are ramps, dot (4) brake fluid, a very small breaker bar, 7/16" socket, and a friend to sit inside to push the pedal.

    Those are the tools.

    What you want to get the car on the ramps and turn it off.

    get under it with the small breaker bar and the socket and place it onto the bleeder screw which is on the upper driver's side of the tranny.

    tell your friend to push the clutch pedal down and hold it. Open the valve and close it when the fluid stops.

    tell your friend to lift up on the pedal with their foot.

    crawl out and make sure the resevoir doesn't go empty.

    go back under your car and tell your friend to push the clutch. Open the valve and close it when the fluid stops.

    Keep repeating the process and making sure the resevoir is full until clean fluid is running out of the bleeder screw(which is how you'd know the dirty fluid is out as well as air)

    test out the pedal and see how it feels.

    if it feels good you ought to be good to go.

  3. #3
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    2004 5.7

    yoo i just had it done for like 40 dollers and bought the fluid at the stealership its brake clutch hydralic fluid dot4 .. 170 is way over priced never take it there !! they suck!!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
    2001 Silverado Z71

    I thought it was dot-3 brake fluid??

  5. #5
    Member slade8200's Avatar
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    Is this possible with the transmission in place?

  6. #6
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    For $170 I would get the Tick speed bleeder ($50) and do it myself and still have $70-80 in my pocket.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    I thought it was dot-3 brake fluid??
    Correct.

    Quote Originally Posted by slade8200 View Post
    Is this possible with the transmission in place?
    Yes it's a MAJOR PITA, need at least one more person but a 3rd is best. One to watch the fluid, one to open close the slave, and the last on pushing the pedal.

    With the speed bleeder you eliminate one person and if you can get a Mity Vac to use it will cut down a lot of time.

  7. #7
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
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    Info about DOT 3,4,5,5.1 brake fluid

    You can put DOT 4 in place of DOT 3 but not the other way around.
    DOT4 brake fluid has a higher boiling point than DOT3, making the fluid less likely to boil. Using cheaper, lower-grade fluid increases the chances of your brakes failing in situations where they build up lots of heat.

    Note DOT 5 is , it is not compatible with DOT 3 and 4 systems


    DOT 5 is completely different and is silicone based and is not interchangeable or compatible with DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 fluids and can cause catastrophic system failure.


    Dot 3, 4, and 5.1 are glycol ether based. They are compatible, but like motor oils, you should use the recommended or higher grade fluid. DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 fluids are found in most brake and clutch systems.


    DOT 5 is a silicone oil based fluid and can only be used in new, dry systems. It is found in racing, US Military, Soviet, and Finnish systems to handle low temperature, excessive braking, and water exposure problems.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
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    BTW, I use and used DOT 4 brake fluid when I flushed out the system and recommend it over DOT 3 for these clutch systems.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    I thought it was dot-3 brake fluid??
    LOL! this is an oldie post, huh? Must have been one of the first post I ever made here.
    Last edited by Cutlass; 03-25-2014 at 03:23 PM.
    -------------------------------------
    Kooks 1 7/8" race headers, Kooks ORY, Borla catback, Nitto 555R, LS6 intake manifold, Shaner S3 ported stock throttle body, SLP lid, smooth bellows, JAAM Ram Air kit, Elite Engineering catch can, LS6 valley cover, EGR and AIR deleted, Frost tune, and Simpson Racing child car seat in the back. 13.2 @ 108MPH

  9. #9
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Yes use DOT 4. Resists heat better. Great info from Scott.

  10. #10
    Member slade8200's Avatar
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    If you flush it this way, I'm assuming the fluid sprays all over the place cause there's no way to insert a hose into the bleeder?

  11. #11
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    You can use a 1/2" heater hose into a bottle. IIRC I found a clear tube that big.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
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    Quote Originally Posted by slade8200 View Post
    If you flush it this way, I'm assuming the fluid sprays all over the place cause there's no way to insert a hose into the bleeder?
    The fluid just kinda goes in the socket and either runs down the ratchet or runs down inside the bellhousing. Just hold a shop rag over the ratchet to "collect" that fluid and then spray a bunch of brake cleaner in the bellhousing to clean and flush that out. Not a huge deal.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Another way to do this is to suck the clutch resevoir dry, then add new fluid. Do this several times over a few months, and it will change a lot of fluid. No need to get at the slave.

  14. #14
    Member slade8200's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    The fluid just kinda goes in the socket and either runs down the ratchet or runs down inside the bellhousing. Just hold a shop rag over the ratchet to "collect" that fluid and then spray a bunch of brake cleaner in the bellhousing to clean and flush that out. Not a huge deal.
    I was under there this weekend and see what you mean. It definitely does look like it just will go into the ratchet. No room up there... awful.

  15. #15
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    It's not bad, I use a 1/4" drive ratchet with a deepwell metric socket on it. Fits perfectly.

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