How to bleed a clutch with a Mity Vac
This is a discussion on How to bleed a clutch with a Mity Vac within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; Originally Posted by Cutlass Yes the mity vac should be able to suck all the air out of the system. ...
06-08-2012, 08:30 PM #41
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06-09-2012, 02:11 AM #42
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easiest way is to use a turkey baster or something to suck the fluid out of the reservoir and then refill it. pump the pedal a bunch or drive the car around for a few days and repeat. Just keep doing that until you go through a bottle or two of DOT4 brake fluid and the system will be pretty clean. Also you won't need to bled the clutch using this method because you're only emptying the reservoir and you're not letting air into the system.-------------------------------------Kooks 1 7/8" race headers, Kooks ORY, Borla catback, Nitto 555R, LS6 intake manifold, Shaner S3 ported stock throttle body, SLP lid, smooth bellows, JAAM Ram Air kit, Elite Engineering catch can, LS6 valley cover, EGR and AIR deleted, Frost tune, and Simpson Racing child car seat in the back. 13.2 @ 108MPH
06-09-2012, 12:27 PM #43
09-04-2013, 03:35 AM #44
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09-04-2013, 05:24 AM #45
Not sure why so many people struggle with this. It's not a bad job.
I was never a fan of the mighty vac. Never liked the connections and if everything isn't "just right" you'll be sucking air and doing it again. Just too much hassle to fuss with. I do it without the fancy tools and found a very effective way to accomplish it without much pedal pumping.
Remove the braided line at the transmission. It has a one way check valve inside the line that won't let fluid drain. Simply depress that check valve and let the entire master cylinder, reservoir, and line, gravity bleed. Stop every so often and check the reservoir and refill. This only takes a minute or two and before you know it, that entire section of the hydraulic clutch is bled, free of air, and replenished with clean fluid. Once you let go of the check valve no air will enter the system. Reinstall on the trans.
Now the only air in the system is at the slave cylinder inside the transmission. I toss my son in the car, pump the pedal 4-5 times and crack the bleeder. Only takes 1-2 tries and the air is out of the slave,,,,,your done. Literally 10 minutes start to finish.
I get this whole process done in the time it takes me to try and hook up a mighty vac and get it working Actually takes me more time just to get the car setup on the lift. When I'm done I don't have a mighty vac full of nasty brake fluid to clean either
Last edited by Firebirdjones; 09-04-2013 at 05:30 AM.
06-24-2014, 08:28 AM #46
06-24-2014, 11:10 AM #47
I've tried it, never really completely happy with it. Not only is it a long process that seems to never end, but if you have any air trapped in the system for any number of reasons, you aren't getting rid of it. It never really did get the fluid crystal clear for me either, and you use alot of fluid trying to clean it out this way.
I just prefer to take the turkey baster, suck out old fluid, refill with fresh, then start the bleeding process. I get clean fluid out of the bleeder faster this way, and all the air and moisture out of the system. I'm done in 10 minutes.
You can always give it a shot if you wish and see how it turns out for you.
06-24-2014, 11:31 AM #48
From the process you described it doesn't sound hard but how big of a pain is it to get to the bleader screw and to the end of the braded line to unhook it?
06-24-2014, 11:48 AM #49
The bleeder screw isn't bad, I use a deep well 1/4" drive socket and it reaches fine. Some people install the speed bleeder and make life easier, I just never got around to it. I probably will in the future when I have a reason to take it apart again.
The hose trick I mentioned I use only when I've replaced a master cylinder. Some people have an issue of bleeding the system when a new master is installed. The hose trick makes it easy. It's a quick disconnect, once off just depress the check valve and fluid will start coming out. Once you have a steady stream, that half of the hydraulic system is done. Reconnect, then all the bleeding you have to do is right at the slave cylinder which only takes a few pumps and you're done.
06-24-2014, 01:00 PM #50
06-24-2014, 02:41 PM #51
I use 11mm on mine, some people say they have good luck using a 7/16 socket (easier to get on I guess) but I'd be afraid of stripping it. 11mm is the actual size. If you have a 1/4" drive ratchet set you'll figure out a combination of what works for you.
I use a deepwell socket and ratchet, while others like a short socket with extension.
06-24-2014, 05:20 PM #52
Thanks for your help. Just a couple more questions. Can you see the bleeder screw from under the car. Do you have to use a mirror or anything. And the line can you just take that off using you hand?
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