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help!!! my clutch is dying!

This is a discussion on help!!! my clutch is dying! within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; Alright guys, I'm pretty sure I need to replace the friction material, but something seems a bit off. At stop ...

  1. #1
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    help!!! my clutch is dying!

    Alright guys, I'm pretty sure I need to replace the friction material, but something seems a bit off.
    At stop lights I can shift into all the gears, no problem. Even accelerating frm a stop is fine.
    But while I'm driving its very hard to shift into gears, and if I decelerate with the stick in a gear WITH the clutch pedal down, it starts making a strange noise+ vibration in pedal and stick.
    At first I thought I just need a new clutch. But now I'm thinking there may be something wrong with the syncros.
    Is this what happens when its time for a new clutch? Kinda backwards from what I'm used to.
    Any help is appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Also, I can still lay the rubber like normal.
    I pulled into a service station to check the hydraulics, and there was a lot of water in the reservoir, plus the fluid was highly contaminated. So I used some paper towels to soak up what was in the reservoir and put some DOT3 brake fluid in there, but it made no differance. Today wasn't even the hottest day of the year either...
    I'm gonna go price clutch discs.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Bottesini's Avatar
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    Mine was doing almost the exact same thing. I would suggest change your master first. At first we thought it was the clutch so I replaced the stocker with a new RAM clutch and pressure plate along with a new slave. Still had the same problem. I also had the tranny rebuilt with beefed up internals and it seems that the insides were in perfect shape, but I also had the master replaced when I had the tranny rebuilt. Up to 450 miles on the new setup and no problems.

    Hopefully, you can save some money and not go through all the components like I did. I would suggest try a new master especially if you have a high mile car.

    Mine would also usually make the noise only after the car had been driven for about 10 minutes.

  4. #4
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    I gotta do some schoolwork.
    I'll bleed that black fluid outta the system later on...just priced shitty clutches @ $400...

  5. #5
    Senior Member Bottesini's Avatar
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    I doubt changing the fluid will work, at least from what I went through, but it is worth a try. I suggest the RAMs mine has been just fine as far as streetability, and I am positive that it will grip just fine. I think they are running around 450 for the clutch and plate. What I have is not one of their normal sets, but if you want I can tell you the part numbers.

  6. #6
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    Dude, I'm still waiting for my financial aide from school, I got nothing to devote to the Z right now.
    Thanks for your help, BTW-what kind of RWHP are you running? If I do this soon I don't want to have to do it again.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Bottesini's Avatar
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    I understand completly, when mine starting to give me problems it made for a lean couple of months. Hopefully, it will just be your master, when I talked with Six Speeds Inc they said that 80k miles is really pushing it for a master. I would definatly bleed out the system it can't hurt anything and maybe you will be lucky. If you are not I know you can find a new master online for about 110.

    Right now I am putting down just under 4oo RWHP. One reason I picked the RAM clutch there are less people having issues with them like the Specs, and most of them that had issues was with the chatter (which I hardly notice). It is also nice to know that it is the same clutch that one of the shop techs uses in his race car and pulls 1.5 60' times

    Hope it all works out well, and cheap for you. I know rebuilding my tranny and installing a new clutch was in the plans eventually, but it really pushed back any plans I had for the car for a while.

  8. #8
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    What does it mean when I can't get any pedal? I keep on bleeding and bleeding, but the clutch pedal won't get stiff.

  9. #9
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    and before anybody asks, I hold the clutch pedal down, then open the valve. Close the valve while still holding down the pedal, then start all over again.

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