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Drill Mod necessary or can I just by the 01-02 part

This is a discussion on Drill Mod necessary or can I just by the 01-02 part within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; From what I was reading, it seems it is a hydrolic line that has the restriction that is getting drilled ...

  1. #1
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    Dark Mettalic Navy Blue
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    Drill Mod necessary or can I just by the 01-02 part

    From what I was reading, it seems it is a hydrolic line that has the restriction that is getting drilled out. Is it possible to just buy the line from an 01-02 or is it the same line and has to be drilled out as well? I am having to buy a new M/C and S/C so if 01-02 line is OK, I will just buy the new line and be done with it. Any idea?? Thanks

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    the lines are the same, they all have the restriction, and they updated them for a reason........

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    OK, what reason? Are you saying that they updated the cylinders or the lines and it would be a BAD idea to do the Drill Mod on the lines? If so, what reason?? So much info

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    no. do the drill mod.

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    Tech Junkie hammertime's Avatar
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    Ok, GM put the restriction in there to save the driveline, but it apparently caused more problems than it solved. All cars starting in 2001 got the updated components, and the old ones are no longer supplied.

    I would get the master slave and line and be done with it.

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    OK, I just got my new parts in (2001-2002 Master and Slave Cylinders) I see now that it is actually two peices that connect together, no line in the middle. SO, without me taking this new, Pre-Partially Bleed Master Cylinder line off and making sure it isn't "restricted", Do the new ones have this restriction or is THIS WHAT GM did to fix the problem in the 2001-2002 versions?? I am taking it to the shop in two days so I wanted to "PreDrill" it if it needs it so all the shop has to do is install it.

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    You can contact McLeod in Calif. and get a new line from them, that has no restrictions. Kevin

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    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by viper222
    OK, I just got my new parts in (2001-2002 Master and Slave Cylinders) I see now that it is actually two peices that connect together, no line in the middle. SO, without me taking this new, Pre-Partially Bleed Master Cylinder line off and making sure it isn't "restricted", Do the new ones have this restriction or is THIS WHAT GM did to fix the problem in the 2001-2002 versions?? I am taking it to the shop in two days so I wanted to "PreDrill" it if it needs it so all the shop has to do is install it.
    It was fixed for 01-02, you don't need the drill mod.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danger731
    It was fixed for 01-02, you don't need the drill mod.


    I just got one and had to do the drill mod on it.

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    Drill mod still necessary for 01-02 parts. Recently had '01-'02 master & slave installed on my 2000. I had previously done the drill mod. The thing shifts so bad now when driven hard, I don't think I could even run a decent 1/4 mile.

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    Mbrownin, Meaning that you had done it before, shifted really nice, then had 01-02 parts installed WITHOUT doing the drill mod and it shifts bad?? I just ordered and recieved my 01-02 Master and Slave, I already drill modded the new line and am having them along with the LS7 clutch installed today.

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    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrhzk35404


    I just got one and had to do the drill mod on it.

    No SH8T !, well learn somtin new everyday - next time im on a lift i guess i'll have to spent the time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danger731
    No SH8T !, well learn somtin new everyday - next time im on a lift i guess i'll have to spent the time.
    Well that is why we are here

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    Junior Member Nate00SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by viper222
    Mbrownin, Meaning that you had done it before, shifted really nice, then had 01-02 parts installed WITHOUT doing the drill mod and it shifts bad?? I just ordered and recieved my 01-02 Master and Slave, I already drill modded the new line and am having them along with the LS7 clutch installed today.

    How much does the two parts cost? Master and slave. Where did you get them?

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    I recently bought the updated master with line.

    Line looked different than the old one where you would normally insert the drill for the drill mod. No way was I doing it to the new line. As far as I could tell...it didn't have the restriction.
    I don't have any hard driving on it yet though...so nothing to report on how it drives.
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    Quote Originally Posted by viper222
    Mbrownin, Meaning that you had done it before, shifted really nice, then had 01-02 parts installed WITHOUT doing the drill mod and it shifts bad?? I just ordered and recieved my 01-02 Master and Slave, I already drill modded the new line and am having them along with the LS7 clutch installed today.
    Basically, yes. It shifts OK for normal driving, but if I accelerate hard thru the gears now, after a shift or 2, the clutch becomes mushy, and the next shift becomes almost impossible.

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbrownin
    Basically, yes. It shifts OK for normal driving, but if I accelerate hard thru the gears now, after a shift or 2, the clutch becomes mushy, and the next shift becomes almost impossible.
    Clutch bled properly?
    Something I have had a few friends have problems with.

  18. #18
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    i'm planning to do the drill mod on my 98 SS this spring the 1-2 and 2-3 shift is hard, and very annoying when racing, i always have to granny shift it

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    Nate00SS asked, and I had some PM's. I ordered my parts from fredbeanseparts.com. Gene was really helpful and the parts shipped really fast. I ordered a few extra parts (Rubber insert for cup holder and Power Antenna) so he waited until those came in and then he shipped my whole order. Even with that delay it was less than 5 days. Anyway, I ordered the LS7 Clutch, and after talking to a local Pontiac dealer that has repaired ALOT of the clutch crippled cars, I ordered their recommended M/C and S/C along with Pilot Bearing and special Hydraulic Clutch Fluid (Says resists air entrapment, worth it to me.) Anyway here is the part numbers I ordered and the cost fro Fred Beans at the time I got them (2 weeks ago).

    NOTE: When ordering this first item you HAVE to put it in as a Cheverolet MAKE Part and type ls7clutchkit as the part number, add it to your cart, then procede by choosing Shop More with the additional parts as Pontiac)
    -Item: LS7 Clutch, Pressure Plate And Flywheel!
    Part Number: ls7clutchkit
    Price: $465.09
    Qty: 1
    Total: $465.09

    -Item: Clutch, Clutch and flywheel, Pilot bearing, PILOT BEARING, 5.7L
    Part Number: 14061685
    Price: $9.53
    Qty: 1
    Total: $9.53

    -Item: CYLINDER (This is the Master Cylinder)
    Part Number: 12570277
    Price: $123.75
    Qty: 1
    Total: $123.75

    (I know, it says 3.8 but it is the right one)
    -Item: Clutch - Hydraulic system - Slave cylinder SLAVE CYLINDER, 3.8L 1996 - 1999
    Part Number: 15046288
    Price: $107.45
    Qty: 1
    Total: $107.45

    I did the Drill Mod and emptied all fluid from the MC and the SC and put this in just in case, After this and bleeding I used 1 FULL quart and a few oz of the second bottle.
    -Item: FLUID-HYD
    Part Number: 12345347
    Price: $6.97
    Qty: 2
    Total: $13.94

    NOW, just so you know, at about 10,000 I had enough issues with my factory clutch that the dealer replaced my Flywheel, Master and Slave along with the Z06 Clutch under warranty. This was still in 2000 (My car is a 2000 WS6) I constintly had mushy pedal issues if racing or after full balls to the wall launches after doing the 1-2 and 2-3 shift. I had to usually lift the pedal with my foot, kinda became second nature. Anyway, I also (even with the Z06 Clutch) could tell that on hard 1-2 shifts the clutch would be slipping. Well, now with the LS7 clutch, the pedal still feels stock but WOW, now, if I launch had, I can't floor it in 1st or it will just start spinning, and If I DO floor it, and then shift to 2nd, not Power shifting, just fast shifting, it will spin second to redline until I shift to third. I have the Good Year GSD3 tires and I think they hook pretty well. Anyway, I now know HOW MUCH I was slipping the clutch. I have driven it like I stole it since the day I bought it, and Now, 1 week after having the LS7 clutch installed, no matter what I do, I have YET to get the mushy pedal crap. So I LOVE IT. FYI, I did to the Drill Mod. It works great in my opinion BUT I think it does take some of the feel out of the pedal, it feels very easy to push but that could be the new clutch design. I can tell you that if I pop out on the clutch now on a down shift, you can feel it engage instantly so much so I will be much easier on my drivetrain from now on since it almost made me eat the windshield. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to let everyone know my experience.

  20. #20
    Junior Member Nate00SS's Avatar
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    Thanks a lot for the info!!!!

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