Drill mod good idea?

**redbird555** · 05-23-2012, 04:45 PM

hey guys my question isnt really how to do the drill mod but more of should I. I'm just finishing up my m6 swap with all new hydraulics and an ls7 clutch. The drill mod should help deliver more fluid to the slave but it seems like i've seen people that do the drill mod end up having more headaches than good results.

So I was just hoping to get some people who have done it. Obviously if the master is bad and you tried it and it didnt help thats one thing. But if the master was brand new or in good working order and it started causing problems when you did it, is what I would like to hear....

**az gt eater** · 05-23-2012, 05:17 PM

If you can't afford the tick master, you should do the drill mod.

**redbird555** · 05-24-2012, 02:00 AM

Originally Posted by az gt eater

If you can't afford the tick master, you should do the drill mod.

ya bottom line is i cant afford the tick right now with saving for college and all or else it would be a no brainer. are there shifting issues with brand new oem stuff and a stock style clutch like the ls7 or is it usually someone has faulty hydraulics and then immediatley blame the weak master?

**rc74racer** · 05-24-2012, 10:25 AM

My MC went out on my 99 SS with 38k on the clock. I bought a brand new GM MC and did the drill mod before installation. I ran it for 3yrs and 50k miles without a single problem. I would not install a stock MC on an f-body without doing the drill mod.

**az gt eater** · 05-24-2012, 05:13 PM

Originally Posted by redbird555

ya bottom line is i cant afford the tick right now with saving for college and all or else it would be a no brainer. are there shifting issues with brand new oem stuff and a stock style clutch like the ls7 or is it usually someone has faulty hydraulics and then immediatley blame the weak master?

The problem is that the factory hydraulics are not up to par. Doing the drill mod helps... a little. Where you will definitively run into a problem, is when you install stiffer aftermarket clutches. Then, the factory hydraulics can not fully disengage the clutch, and you burn up a clutch disc, flywheel, and/or your tranny. The way to check if you are fully disengaged is to jack the rear off the ground, and then put it in gear(first), then release, and engage the clutch. IF the tires never stop turning, you are not fully disengaged. As there is no adjustment with the factory hydraulics, you would then need a Tick. But, if you can afford it, just get it, and be done. When you remove the factory master, and compare it to the Tick, you will see what all the rave is about.

**tatertot91** · 05-24-2012, 05:21 PM

Originally Posted by rc74racer

My MC went out on my 99 SS with 38k on the clock. I bought a brand new GM MC and did the drill mod before installation. I ran it for 3yrs and 50k miles without a single problem. I would not install a stock MC on an f-body without doing the drill mod.

2001+ came with better hydraulics
If it were me i'd install it and if it needs more fluid you could always do the drill mod later

**redbird555** · 05-24-2012, 05:46 PM

Originally Posted by az gt eater

The problem is that the factory hydraulics are not up to par. Doing the drill mod helps... a little. Where you will definitively run into a problem, is when you install stiffer aftermarket clutches. Then, the factory hydraulics can not fully disengage the clutch, and you burn up a clutch disc, flywheel, and/or your tranny. The way to check if you are fully disengaged is to jack the rear off the ground, and then put it in gear(first), then release, and engage the clutch. IF the tires never stop turning, you are not fully disengaged. As there is no adjustment with the factory hydraulics, you would then need a Tick. But, if you can afford it, just get it, and be done. When you remove the factory master, and compare it to the Tick, you will see what all the rave is about.

I'm well aware the stocker is not up to the task of pushing a high performance clutch because it simply doesnt push the fluid the tick does. The tilton the tick uses is a 7/8" diameter and the stock is 3/4" big difference. I have seen and driven tatertots car with the tick and its a nice piece and its well worth the money with a big clutch. But bottom line is I dont have the cash right now and it shouldn't really be needed with a stock style clutch simply because the stock or ls7 style clutch is lighter, smaller and worked for years before the tick was out. Question is here since the car is has a stockish clutch and master should the drill mod be done? Is there anyone here running an ls7 clutch with the stock MC and if so do you have issues?

**35th-ANV-SS** · 05-24-2012, 05:50 PM

There is another mfg besides the Tick that does the same thing for a lot cheaper. Can't recall the mfg brand though. Someone else might know. Few people I know went that route and had good results.

**az gt eater** · 05-24-2012, 06:39 PM

Originally Posted by redbird555

I'm well aware the stocker is not up to the task of pushing a high performance clutch because it simply doesnt push the fluid the tick does. The tilton the tick uses is a 7/8" diameter and the stock is 3/4" big difference. I have seen and driven tatertots car with the tick and its a nice piece and its well worth the money with a big clutch. But bottom line is I dont have the cash right now and it shouldn't really be needed with a stock style clutch simply because the stock or ls7 style clutch is lighter, smaller and worked for years before the tick was out. Question is here since the car is has a stockish clutch and master should the drill mod be done? Is there anyone here running an ls7 clutch with the stock MC and if so do you have issues?

That was pretty dismissive. I gave you instructions on how to check for positive disengagement. It seems like you are already well aware of the situation. Good luck.

**Y2K_CAMARO** · 05-24-2012, 09:51 PM

Subscribed to see some info.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 05-24-2012, 11:35 PM

RAM is who I was thinking of. Theirs is only $160.

**Y2K_CAMARO** · 05-25-2012, 08:28 AM

So RAM is a cheaper solution to Tick?

**redbird555** · 05-25-2012, 10:58 AM

Originally Posted by az gt eater

That was pretty dismissive. I gave you instructions on how to check for positive disengagement. It seems like you are already well aware of the situation. Good luck.

Sorry if I came off that way I didnt mean it like that, hopefully no hard feelings. I know how to check the engagement of the clutch by jacking it up and revving it in gear with the clutch in. I would imagine with a good working master that should not happen. People run stock masters all the time and dont have issues with stock clutches. I think its when people start using stiff pressure plates and try hard shifting that they run into issues...

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

RAM is who I was thinking of. Theirs is only $160.

The ram is not a good solution it has been proven by many people that alll the ram is, is a stock MC that has been modified so you still get the same amount of fluid fluid except now you can adjust the pedal. :/

If someone wants the best solution for any clutch there's no way around it, the tick or mcleod is the way to go. However for a stock or stockish clutch application like the ls7 I see many people running the stock MC with no issue. I think its more of the fact that the stock mc goes bad and people just dont want to deal with it so the direct response is a tick.... I' just like to see people who have had the stock mc and had issues even with new ones. I think that if you have all new stuff and are on a stockish clutch you'd be fine but who knows lol thats why I wanted the opinions.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 05-25-2012, 12:31 PM

Just relaying what people have said who have actually installed it. I don't have any personal experience with it.

**redbird555** · 05-25-2012, 12:47 PM

Ya I mean its not a bad solution if you just want an adjustable master. However if your truly after a high performance master the tick is it lol. What do you run on yours 35th?

**az gt eater** · 05-25-2012, 03:57 PM

Originally Posted by redbird555

Sorry if I came off that way I didnt mean it like that, hopefully no hard feelings. I know how to check the engagement of the clutch by jacking it up and revving it in gear with the clutch in. I would imagine with a good working master that should not happen. People run stock masters all the time and dont have issues with stock clutches. I think its when people start using stiff pressure plates and try hard shifting that they run into issues...

The ram is not a good solution it has been proven by many people that alll the ram is, is a stock MC that has been modified so you still get the same amount of fluid fluid except now you can adjust the pedal. :/

If someone wants the best solution for any clutch there's no way around it, the tick or mcleod is the way to go. However for a stock or stockish clutch application like the ls7 I see many people running the stock MC with no issue. I think its more of the fact that the stock mc goes bad and people just dont want to deal with it so the direct response is a tick.... I' just like to see people who have had the stock mc and had issues even with new ones. I think that if you have all new stuff and are on a stockish clutch you'd be fine but who knows lol thats why I wanted the opinions.

All forgiven. The internet is so hard to use to communicate sometimes. We are all here trying to help each other, and learn.

**az gt eater** · 05-25-2012, 04:00 PM

And, if you look at the factory master, the line running up to the reservoir is actually pinched under the u bolt that mounts it to the firewall. It obviously still flows fluid, but seems like a suspect area when people complain of dead pedal. Possibly just a lack of decent flow through the low pressure reservoir line?

**35th-ANV-SS** · 05-25-2012, 07:32 PM

Originally Posted by redbird555

Ya I mean its not a bad solution if you just want an adjustable master. However if your truly after a high performance master the tick is it lol. What do you run on yours 35th?

I have a stock GM MC and am running a Spec Stage 3+. No issues really the last 2 years, but have noticed since the Procharger install that disengagement is becoming an issue at WOT in 3rd. I'll most likely upgrade to the Tick MC before too long.

**redbird555** · 05-26-2012, 03:56 AM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

I have a stock GM MC and am running a Spec Stage 3+. No issues really the last 2 years, but have noticed since the Procharger install that disengagement is becoming an issue at WOT in 3rd. I'll most likely upgrade to the Tick MC before too long.

Ya I could see the added htq and stress the the procharger causing some issues there, or it could be the fact that you drive the car like it was supposed to be driven and the MC is finally going out again lol. But the point is that the stocker has been working good for a couple years! I decided to go ahead and do the drill mod yesterday and the drill bit ended up breaking halfway through the line (cheap chinese bits)

so this morning I'm off to the junkyard to take some off a few v6 cars and then searts to buy a decent bit but that way atleast I'll have an extra around just in case lol.