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Drill mod good idea?

This is a discussion on Drill mod good idea? within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; Ok guys I know this may sound stupid but I took the tail housing off my t56 before I'm dropping ...

  1. #21
    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    2002 Camaro Z/28 Pewter

    Ok guys I know this may sound stupid but I took the tail housing off my t56 before I'm dropping it into the car just to inspect the magnets and last gears, i did nothing else. I'm trying to put it back on and the housing slips on but stops about 1/4 of an inch before sitting flush onto the case.

    I have the input shaft going through a hole in my workbench so I cant really turn it unless I pull it out and lay the transmission down. I'm thinking the tail housing wont sit all the way down because the gears arent meshing so should i start turning the input shaft to see if it'll sit or is there something else i'm missing?

  2. #22
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    There is another mfg besides the Tick that does the same thing for a lot cheaper. Can't recall the mfg brand though. Someone else might know. Few people I know went that route and had good results.
    I use the Ram with great results, but you have to modify it.

    Removed the C-clip to pull the inards out and drill a hole in the main body orifice and reassemble (can't remember the size off hand though). Then it pushes the same amount of fluid a Tick does for half the cost I also did the drill mod in the line as well to compliment it. Has worked flawless for the last 5-6 years, but the main goal I was after was the adjustability as the clutch just didn't release far enough and shifting was very sticky with the stock master. I prefer engagement near the top of pedal travel and I got it with an adjustable setup. These things should have been adjustable from the factory, like cars used to be.

    I assume the tick comes with a new main line so the drill mod in the line isn't needed? Otherwise I'd recommend the drill mod on all of the 6 speed cars regardless of clutch setup to remove the sluggish clutch action.

  3. #23
    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    2002 Camaro Z/28 Pewter

    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    I use the Ram with great results, but you have to modify it.

    Removed the C-clip to pull the inards out and drill a hole in the main body orifice and reassemble (can't remember the size off hand though). Then it pushes the same amount of fluid a Tick does for half the cost I also did the drill mod in the line as well to compliment it. Has worked flawless for the last 5-6 years, but the main goal I was after was the adjustability as the clutch just didn't release far enough and shifting was very sticky with the stock master. I prefer engagement near the top of pedal travel and I got it with an adjustable setup. These things should have been adjustable from the factory, like cars used to be.

    I assume the tick comes with a new main line so the drill mod in the line isn't needed? Otherwise I'd recommend the drill mod on all of the 6 speed cars regardless of clutch setup to remove the sluggish clutch action.
    Thanks jones the adjustability is def nice but not a deal breaker for me so for right now I just did the drill mod. Hopefully I'll know i a week or two how everything is working when the swap on the car is complete. And yes the tick actually comes with an even bigger m/c line that has no restriction in it so the drill mod isnt needed lol. Although since I'm using the stock style adjustable clutch I dont even think the tick will work for me after because according to most people the pressure plate adjusts to the master

  4. #24
    Member BadTA00's Avatar
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    2000 Trans Am

    When my factory clutch went out I upgraded to the Z06(factory 2000 clutch slipped from day1), did the drill mod, and made the MC adjustable. And since installing the Hurst Billet Plus, I haven't had a single Transmission related problem.

    Sent from Motorola Atrix using Tapatalk 2.
    2000 T/A-DMH Cutout, SLP Cold Air kit, FTRA/SLP Upgrade, SLP Bilstein, LT1 Eibach ProKit, Kuhmo PA31 Tires ,SLP Fan Switch, UMI Double Adj PHB w/ Roto-Joints, UMI LCARB, Strano 35/22mm Sway Bars , Magnecor KV85 Wires, Hurst Shifter, Lou's Short Stick.

  5. #25
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    1998 Pontiac Formula LS6

    I'm still running the original MC with a new slave, LS7 clutch behind a new LS6. The first 500 miles the clutch was very "grabby". I took a drive up the coast and on the way back got stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic due to a construction project/ road repair. I think that helped to break in the clutch and after 14K miles I'm still very happy with it and haven't had any problems.

  6. #26
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadTA00 View Post
    When my factory clutch went out I upgraded to the Z06(factory 2000 clutch slipped from day1), did the drill mod, and made the MC adjustable. And since installing the Hurst Billet Plus, I haven't had a single Transmission related problem.

    Sent from Motorola Atrix using Tapatalk 2.
    I assume you are talking about the original Z06 clutch (aka: LS6)? If so, that's the exact setup I have been running for years with drill mod and adjustable master, hurst shifter. Works great. I rarely race the car, primarily a driver for my wife, and she's fine with it. She wouldn't even drive the car until I made the clutch adjustable, she hated the stock pedal feel grabbing right off the floor.

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