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Drill Mod - Easy Way

This is a discussion on Drill Mod - Easy Way within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; I was thinking about doing the drill mod. Somebody said you could just disconnect the line from the transmission. Then ...

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    Drill Mod - Easy Way

    I was thinking about doing the drill mod. Somebody said you could just disconnect the line from the transmission. Then drill it out and push some fluid out. I am not doing a master cyclinder right now, so can I do it this way? Any details or advice would be great.

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    Senior Member ss~zoso~ss's Avatar
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    i was under the impression that the restriction is at the other end of the line, aka near the master cyl. so i dont think you can do it the way you said

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    Member Orange SS's Avatar
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    the restriction is on the master cylinder side and the only way to do it is to pull the master out so you can get the retainer pin out to remove the line

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    Senior Member ninobrn99's Avatar
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    its a bit of a bitch to get the ubolt back in after pulling the master, but its not hard at all. just pull it as a whole assembly. it'll be much easier that way.

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    Rice Hungry GottaHaveLS1's Avatar
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    what exactly is the drill mod supposed to do?
    1999 Trans Am M6
    SLP Short Throw, Lid and CAI, BMR STB and SFC, UMI PHB, Pacesetter LT's and ORY, Magnaflow Catback, DMH 3" E-Cutout, LS7 Clutch, Motive 4.10, 160 T-Stat, MSD, !AIR, !EGR, 17x9.5 Chrome C6's wrapped in Hankook 275/40/17

    Tuned at Mongillo Motors in New Haven, CT

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    Senior Member ninobrn99's Avatar
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    with the restriction gm built into the line, when you're in the high rpms and trying to shift, sometimes it wont let you because of that restriction. you drill it out of the line and it eliminates that problem.

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninobrn99 View Post
    with the restriction gm built into the line, when you're in the high rpms and trying to shift, sometimes it wont let you because of that restriction. you drill it out of the line and it eliminates that problem.
    why would they do that? to save the trans a lil?? or is it just a dumb move on gm

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    Member Orange SS's Avatar
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    both

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    Senior Member ss~zoso~ss's Avatar
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    yea you go to slam second and you grind the shit outa it infront of all your friends

    been there done that, and then trying to tell them "its not me its this restriction in the clutch fluid line i swear"

    lol

    embarassing times

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    Every day is a gift-enjoy preston1980's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    why would they do that? to save the trans a lil?? or is it just a dumb move on gm
    it was to save the entire drive line, including the rear end from hard impact. But it caused much more damage than it saved, just in clutch damage alone.

    I recomend the drill mod, it was easy to do when I swaped out the master cylinder, and it made my shifts feel more precise and engaged. Although it is not as smooth engagement as it used to be. It is still worth it. And you can tell that it has plenty of time to refill the master cylinder in between every shift, no matter how fast you shift, so there isnt any worries about your pressure plate not engaging on your power shifts.

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    Member Fedge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by preston1980 View Post
    Although it is not as smooth engagement as it used to be.
    um...doesn't that defeat the purpose?

    I don't need it any worse than it already else...I was thinking of doing this over the winter

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    Every day is a gift-enjoy preston1980's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fedge View Post
    um...doesn't that defeat the purpose?

    I don't need it any worse than it already else...I was thinking of doing this over the winter
    When i say smooth, I mean the old way was not as harsh. With the drill mod, it is more agresive when you let off the clutch, like it grabs all at once. Im sure you will break more u joints and probally some motor mounts, but it saves your clutch from slipping when you slam 2nd or 3rd. But make everyday driving more clunky, but its worth it. Also I did an aluminum flywheel and light weight pressure plate, so my setup will probally feel differant than others.

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    Member Fedge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by preston1980 View Post
    When i say smooth, I mean the old way was not as harsh. With the drill mod, it is more agresive when you let off the clutch, like it grabs all at once. Im sure you will break more u joints and probally some motor mounts, but it saves your clutch from slipping when you slam 2nd or 3rd. But make everyday driving more clunky, but its worth it. Also I did an aluminum flywheel and light weight pressure plate, so my setup will probally feel differant than others.

    oh, whew, I thought you meant the actual shifting. that's cool, then...six Stangs later, means nothing, they all had cables, so I'm used to 'all at once' lol

    I have all poly mounts and am gonna get a 12 bolt this winter with the upgraded U, so i'm too worried about that, plus I slip off the line anyway for driveline's sake, thanks for the info!
    95 Exploder

    01 R1 coming?

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    Every day is a gift-enjoy preston1980's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fedge View Post
    oh, whew, I thought you meant the actual shifting. that's cool, then...six Stangs later, means nothing, they all had cables, so I'm used to 'all at once' lol

    I have all poly mounts and am gonna get a 12 bolt this winter with the upgraded U, so i'm too worried about that, plus I slip off the line anyway for driveline's sake, thanks for the info!
    Ya, I drive a Stang now, but I miss my 99 TA, I had alot of fun with it.
    Anyway, You will be happy with the drill mod, just go slow when drilling, and stop often to get rid of the metal shavings. Good luck

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    Member Fedge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by preston1980 View Post
    Ya, I drive a Stang now, but I miss my 99 TA, I had alot of fun with it.
    Anyway, You will be happy with the drill mod, just go slow when drilling, and stop often to get rid of the metal shavings. Good luck
    thank ya thank ya!

    Stangs aren't bad, just different. i prefer the Fs...this is my 6th F as well (2 3rd Gen Cams and 4 4th Gen FBs)...if you put a lot of money in the Stangs, they run, but mod for mod, these LS1, hell, even an LT1...well, i guess I really don't need to continue, lol

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    Every day is a gift-enjoy preston1980's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fedge View Post
    thank ya thank ya!

    Stangs aren't bad, just different. i prefer the Fs...this is my 6th F as well (2 3rd Gen Cams and 4 4th Gen FBs)...if you put a lot of money in the Stangs, they run, but mod for mod, these LS1, hell, even an LT1...well, i guess I really don't need to continue, lol
    Ya, I have had 4 TA's and 3 Mustangs, I like them all. My TA's were a 93 m6, 97 m6, 98 auto, 99 m6. They were all fast as hell. Also had 2 5.0 stangs, they were quick , but my TA's were faster. My current Stang is a Cobra, its the fastest car I have ever driven. I will have another F body one day, im sure of it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by preston1980 View Post
    Ya, I have had 4 TA's and 3 Mustangs, I like them all. My TA's were a 93 m6, 97 m6, 98 auto, 99 m6. They were all fast as hell. Also had 2 5.0 stangs, they were quick , but my TA's were faster. My current Stang is a Cobra, its the fastest car I have ever driven. I will have another F body one day, im sure of it.
    if I could afford a Terminator, i would definitely have one...monsters.

    all of my Stangs were slow, lol 89LX, 89GT, 90GT, 91GT Vert, 93GT and 01 GTVert (my fave)

    my 2 Camaros - slow....82 Z and 86 305 auto IROC (thank God it was TPI, unlike my boy...TBI vert)

    my 93 Form M6, first 12 sec car...back in 93-95

    2 95 M6 TAs - slow, well...1/4 slow, ran upstairs

    98 M6 TA..first LS1, first stroker, first head/cam car...i'm enjoying it

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    Member Fedge's Avatar
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    sorry to hijack the thread...

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    Quote Originally Posted by preston1980 View Post
    Anyway, You will be happy with the drill mod, just go slow when drilling, and stop often to get rid of the metal shavings. Good luck
    FWIW here's my advice when drilling the restriction orifice. Use a 7/64" drill and not the 1/8" that one article instructs. That .016" difference is the actual body of the end fitting. That is where there would be a significant amount of metal removed; which shouldn't be done. The actual restricting orifice is very tiny and the amount of metal that needs to come out is equally small. A 7/64" bit fits perfectly into the end fitting whereas with a 1/8" you begin at the hose fitting which can make it more difficult to determine where to stop. Using the 7/64" bit, you drill about .030 - .060 deep once contact is made with the orifice. The amount of material removed will not cover a small fingertip. Some people do not realize how quickly the drill job goes and end up cutting into the interior of the hydraulic line.

    To anyone interested, this is the ideal time to flush everything concerning the master cylinder. I guess it was from the rubber seals but my fluid was black as it could be.

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    Member Orange SS's Avatar
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    i used a 9/64 bit

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