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Drill Mod...Does it actually work??

This is a discussion on Drill Mod...Does it actually work?? within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; Originally Posted by Firebirdjones Ya all the T56 cars we have had are a little sticky when cold. Just nature,,,even ...

  1. #41
    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Ya all the T56 cars we have had are a little sticky when cold. Just nature,,,even with thin auto tranny fluid. And these hydraulic clutch systems really make pedal effort minimal as if there isn't much there.
    Try an old muncie with 90 weight I have to go 15-20 miles before that thing loosens up in the cold weather. But when it's warm they are one of the best shifting tranny's made, smooth as silk,,,if I could just get a T56 to feel that good I'd be set.
    Haha! My dad says the same exact thing and I agree! He hated shifting my T56 for a long time but w/ more drive time he got to like it. Nothing like a Muncie!

  2. #42
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9t8z28 View Post
    It's funny, I do all of my own work on my car, and I have never attempted this mod, and I have not even looked at it and my clutch does stick to the floor. I guess all of the times that my car is on the lift is to clean it or do exhaust mods.

    Can I access this line without yanking the tranny?
    No need to remove the tranny. The line is a snap fit in the side of the tranny, using a pair of screw drivers, put even pressure on the plastic clip and the line will pull out. There is a tool made for this that makes things easier so it free's up a hand.
    After that it's a matter of climbing under the dash to remove a pair of nuts that hold the master cylinder in. It pulls out of the firewall bringing with it a studded u-bolt. You also have to disconnect the hose that runs up to the small reservoir. I suck the fluid out with a turkey baister so as not to make a mess. Put the assembly on the bench, remove the roll pin to slide the other end of the line out from the master cylinder, drill the orifice and reinstall.

    A helpfull hint on the reinstall,,,I like to drill the holes in the firewall about 2-3 sizes bigger. It makes it much easier when you are trying to line up the studded u-bolt along with the master cylinder, it all goes in together, with larger holes it doesn't have to be aligned perfectly and falls in much easier. Not much room to work here so you'll see what I mean when you dive into it.

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    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    No need to remove the tranny. The line is a snap fit in the side of the tranny, using a pair of screw drivers, put even pressure on the plastic clip and the line will pull out. There is a tool made for this that makes things easier so it free's up a hand.
    After that it's a matter of climbing under the dash to remove a pair of nuts that hold the master cylinder in. It pulls out of the firewall bringing with it a studded u-bolt. You also have to disconnect the hose that runs up to the small reservoir. I suck the fluid out with a turkey baister so as not to make a mess. Put the assembly on the bench, remove the roll pin to slide the other end of the line out from the master cylinder, drill the orifice and reinstall.

    A helpfull hint on the reinstall,,,I like to drill the holes in the firewall about 2-3 sizes bigger. It makes it much easier when you are trying to line up the studded u-bolt along with the master cylinder, it all goes in together, with larger holes it doesn't have to be aligned perfectly and falls in much easier. Not much room to work here so you'll see what I mean when you dive into it.
    Thanks!

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    Black as black can be
    2001 Trans Am WS6

    spec I clutch and pressure plate vs stock Z06 2001

    I was recently laid off and had just got my tranny built buy fastlane, they used D&D and its got new gears,syncros I mean everything, its the stage 2 kit with all new stock parts..it cost me $2900 thats with me taking it out and I gotta put it back in....well the tranny is insured for 1 year even if its broke racing, and I have a 2001 WS6 trans am...everyone dogs WS6 and SS but with 110,000mi and just msd plug wires,slp lid, and a pretty broke 6 spd I ran 13.08 on my first pass, after that I ran 13.4-13.6 going straight from 2nd to 4th gear....now since tranny was out and I was still working I got pacesetter jethot headers and off road y pipe.....my 60 ft was 2.0 on the 13.08 nd never got worse than 2.2 on the other 6 runs.....well I ran outta money and I have sittin here a pacesetter set of headers,$2900 built 6 spd,off road y pipe, and since I ran outta money I had to get a stage 1 clutch kit from spec...the tranny builder recomended stage 2..he said to many people go with stage 3 thinking they got 500+hp but hardly anyone has that much...he says spec1 will be ok....will it work good??....Im adding prolly 25-40RWHP with no cats and headers, and 01-02 is a different beast ive heard, and if I already ran a 13.08 I'll be deep in 12's now....I think the 01-02 motors had something done....but will the spec1 clutch and p/p work?....im making $195 week from $750 week when working....im very tight on budget, tranny,headers,y-pipe is all paid in cash I have no credit cards...income tax is comin, should I hold off and send the spec 1 back and get the spec 2?...tranny builder also says he recomends I get a pro 5.0???????????...sorry for the soooo long speech, only way I can explain...I was told spec 1 is way better than the stock Z06 clutch setup that came with my car stock in '01

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    99 Camaro SS

    I debated with myself over the SPEC 2 or 3 for a week before I got mine. Having already put on SLP Tuned LT, Y-pipe, and HF Cats, and Magna Flow, Lid. (SLP MAF and EGR Rem.) I was also ordering the FAST 90/90. I decided on thinking worst/best case. Say you had 332HP stocker, w/ max reported dyno gains of 38 from Hdr/Exh, and +21 from the Intake/TB, and say +3 from MAF n EGR. Absolute best case 394HP. Then going AL Fly and Press Plate...+16HP. So I wanted it to 410HP and thought I could add AC delete, UD pulley, and say I won the lottery again and 425HP. Let's say that put out high side 430 ft.-lbs

    I then figured with control arms, reloc, adj shocks, + 305/30 sticky tires for good planting and higher rpm engagements (from Aluminum). Figure that makes the instantaneous slam 15% worse. ~475...So I figured SPEC 2 has plenty of error room.

    I go to order and can't help but notice, SPEC 3 is $20 more. I bought the 3. So I did a bunch of debating and worst case dreaming for nothing...the SPEC Stage 3 is a good buy!!!!

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    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9t8z28 View Post
    Thanks!
    I just did the drill mod and installed a Mcleod adjustable master cylinder, and WOW, what a difference. It feels like I got a brand new clutch! The pedal grabs at the same spot every time unlike the stock master which seemed like it had a mind of its own. I have not been able to really go through the gears since I just installed a new 12 bolt but I have not heard gear grunch which was pretty easy to do with a cold tranny and the stock master. The pedal has a little more effort but that doesn't bother me.

    As soon as I hit 1K miles, I will be back to tell!
    Last edited by 9t8z28; 02-23-2009 at 06:01 PM.

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