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Did I overpower my clutch ?

This is a discussion on Did I overpower my clutch ? within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; I had my 2002 SS out today and I was feeling frisky so I pulled onto a nice empty road, ...

  1. #1
    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Did I overpower my clutch ?

    I had my 2002 SS out today and I was feeling frisky so I pulled onto a nice empty road, brougt the tach up to 3500 and dumped the clutch. went to 6200 in first, then 6200 in second and then went for third and the clutch pedel was on the floor. I let off the gas and the pedel was back up. I smelled clutch and noticed no burnout marks behind me. I drove the car home and it was normal, shifted fine with no noise. This has never happened to me before, I usually get two thick black strips through three gears. Have I overpowered the stock clutch ? My car has been adult driven, has 33k and it has been modded.
    I blew a slider key last year and had the trans rebuilt to stage III and I put in a new throw out bearing at the time, this was 2,000 miles ago. Too much power and not enough clutch ? Any ideas guys. Clutch fluid is clean.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    Sounds like you overpowered it. In about 10k miles, you would notice it revving at highway speeds, but not accelerating. Time to plan, then replace clutch.I have the SPEC, and I would not recomend it. The spacer is not big enough. But, I do recomend the Tick master, and a Mity Vac.

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    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Yeah sounds like it slipped instead of engaging. Like an overheated brake system, it usually is ok after cooling off, but you probably took some miles off the clutch life.

    At least you didn't do something like this!

    corvette burnout gone bad - YouTube

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    Yeah sounds like it slipped instead of engaging. Like an overheated brake system, it usually is ok after cooling off, but you probably took some miles off the clutch life.

    At least you didn't do something like this!

    corvette burnout gone bad - YouTube
    At least I didn't have a bunch of people watching me make a fool of myself.

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Ok, now I need more advice. I am putting the car away for winter. I plan on doing a cam swap and a valvetrain upgrade at that time. I plan on adding another 40rwhp so while I am at it, what HD clutch do you recommend so I do not go through this "clutch-burn" again.

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    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    I'm pretty happy with my LS7 upgrade, and so are a lot of others as well. People agree that it's about perfect up to 450-475 HP, you should be fine with it.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    If you want to do burnouts and be really aggressive, I would not recommend a LS7 clutch. It's for a factory car and factory-type driving. Get an aftermarket clutch like Monster, SPEC, or RAM.

    I have a Spec Stage 3+ with LOTS of abuse and it never slips, ever. I have done 5500RPM drops and it grabs.

    Not everyone has luck with SPEC, but it is the most sold clutch and it's expected for there to be a handful of problems with them. Mostly installation error from what I've read over the years.

    If you want a DD type clutch with light to moderate capabilities that will be reliable, the LS7 is indeed a great clutch. It is inexpensive for what you get too. It's just not made for taking abuse like the other clutch manufacturer's are in my opinion.

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    I only do burnouts when I am in the mood, maybe 10 times a year and I only race it two or three times a year. I mostly jus drive it normal. I only put 2k miles a year on it.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Then it sounds like the LS7 would probably be a great clutch set-up for your driving habits.

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    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Burnouts. I get that stuff out of my system just before I buy new tires, then I quit for several thousand miles. I mean I usually do. But now I get fantastic deals on some Potenzas, so I may only get 20k on these instead of my usual 27k!

    I really like the progressive engagement of the LS7 setup. It's like the OE clutch, not an on/off switch like some strong aftermarket types.

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. The LS7 it is !!!

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    A couple of things not mention....


    Pedal on the floor - this is from the Hydraulic Hose that attaches to the OEM Master Cylinder. The hose has a restrictive orifices that when rapid shifting it doesn't let the fluid return fast enough causing the pedal to stay on the floor.


    You have 2 options to fix this problem. One is call the "drill Mod", this is if you plan on staying with the OEM Master Cylinder. See attached video.






    Option 2 - Tick Performance has one of the best "Master Cylinders" that are well worth the investment. It comes with a new Hydraulic Hose that doesn't have the restrictive orifice that the OEM one comes with.

    But their is one small detail, if you plan on getting a LS7 clutch you need to do the Tick Master at the same time you do the LS7 clutch. The reason is that the LS7 clutch self-adjusts. If you install the Tick MC at the same time as a new LS7 clutch package you shouldn't have any problems. It's only when the LS7 PP is broken in with a stock MC that switching to the Tick causes problems. It seems this issue is only with the LS7 clutch. No issues like this reported with Monster, Spec, Ram.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 10-22-2012 at 08:03 AM.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Scott----nice video on the drill mod. One thing I've found is you can pre-bleed the master cylinder before you re-install it. Just have the resevoir full of fluid, work the m/c pushrod in and out until it won't move anymore. This gets all the air out of the m/c and hose assembly, re-install to the slave, and you'll be done. Be sure the m/c is the highest point, besides the fluid resevoir, when pre-bleeding. I've done 2 this way and it works without bleeding the entire system and no hole in the drivetrain tunnel. Of course, the old fluid in the slave is still there.

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