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Clutch won't engage

This is a discussion on Clutch won't engage within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; Does anyone know how to bleed the clutch on a 99 camaro ss? I was having problems getting it into ...

  1. #1
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    99 camaro ss

    Clutch won't engage

    Does anyone know how to bleed the clutch on a 99 camaro ss? I was having problems getting it into gear so I checked the slave and it was empty. I put fluid in it and it seemed to help. Then it happened again first thing in the morning upon start up....it wouldn't engage. I checked the fluid and it was full. The problem seemed to only happen in the morning when the car was cold and as it warmed up, it would engage. Now it won't engage at all.

    ANY IDEAS???

  2. #2
    Member tpilews's Avatar
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    the master in under the hood. The slave is connected to the tranny. Your slave could be leaking. I had a similar problem, ended up replacing the slave. Might as well change out the clutch while you're in there if you're still running the original.

    As far as bleeding the clutch, it's a two man job, unless you open a hole in your floorboard to access the bleed nipple. Do a search, there's a write up done somewhere on here.

  3. #3
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    How to bleed a clutch with a Mity Vac

    If your master was empty, you have a leak somewhere that needs to be addressed.

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    Member 2000dreambird's Avatar
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    Mark at Kyspeed sells a extention so you can bleed it yourself with out cutting the floor. If you replacing the slave it's worth the little extra $$. I did it and I'm so glad I did I just ran it up along side the master. And tucked it when I don't need it. But it's long enough that you can sit in the car pump the clutch then bleed it in a bottle without even getting out of the car

  5. #5
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    I had just got the car back from the shop and they had put a new clutch and motor etc. In the car. I don't know if they forgot to fill it originally. I put maybe 500 miles on the car as the problem got progressively worse.

    Since i filled it with fluid, the fluid level hasn't dropped. Could it just be air in the lines?

  6. #6
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    How do i get a hold of mark at kyspeed???

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    OK........I FEEL DUMB.......I JUST SAW THE AD UP TOP FOR KYSPEED.......THANX

  8. #8
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    You don't have to cut a hole in the floor when using the MityVac either. Depending on the price of the extension, that MityVac was only ~30 bucks. And its guaranteed to work flawlessly, every time, and much quicker then using the bleeder valve.

  9. #9
    Member marksls1ta's Avatar
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    if you want please send me a pm. or make a post on what you are wanting.

    I dont get emails from this site for some reason.

    also my cell is 606-422-8502 call me if you have any questions. I will have the slaves in stock tomorrow and the bleeder line I have now.

    thanks,
    Mark

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    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Are we talking about the Tick remote bleeder? If so, theres no way to install it without dropping the transmission.

  11. #11
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    It took me a good hour of bleeding the clutch to gett it squared away. I did it the old fashion way. My wife was in the car and pummped the pedal 10 times or so, then held it down while I cracked the valve. I slid a socket over the valve, then used a 1/4 inch ratchet to open and close the valve. You will want a drop cloth, and a bucket, but most of the fluid will run down your arm anyway. I actually tied a rag around my wrist to help soak it up. Not a fun job, but you won't have to drop the tranny to install a new bleeder extension.

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    Member 2000dreambird's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    Are we talking about the Tick remote bleeder? If so, theres no way to install it without dropping the transmission.
    Ya it's was the tick that I was referring to. I didn't take that into consideration that you would have to drop the trans I had it out when I did it because I was doing a bunch of other stuff at the same time slave replacement was one of those things

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrKid View Post
    It took me a good hour of bleeding the clutch to gett it squared away. I did it the old fashion way. My wife was in the car and pummped the pedal 10 times or so, then held it down while I cracked the valve. I slid a socket over the valve, then used a 1/4 inch ratchet to open and close the valve. You will want a drop cloth, and a bucket, but most of the fluid will run down your arm anyway. I actually tied a rag around my wrist to help soak it up. Not a fun job, but you won't have to drop the tranny to install a new bleeder extension.
    I'll never do it that way again, I've seen the light

  14. #14
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    ^^^me too...and so has GM. They recommend the Mity Vac method also
    Last edited by Cutlass; 07-23-2010 at 08:54 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    ^^^me too...and so has GM. They recommend the Mity Vac method also
    Had no idea it was the preferred method from GM now. They finally made a decision that makes sense

    There really is no reason to bleed any other way.

  16. #16
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    yep here the service bulletin

    Quote Originally Posted by GM
    #01-07-31-002B: Info - Improved Bleeding Procedure for Hydraulic Clutch Release System - (Nov 1, 2006)


    Subject: Improved Bleeding Procedure for Hydraulic Clutch Release System


    Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)

    2007 and Prior Chevrolet and GMC 6-7F T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models

    2007 and Prior Isuzu F-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models

    2006-2007 HUMMER H3




    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-31-002A (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle).


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers of an improved procedure to aid in the ease of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system for the above listed vehicles. This procedure can be used anytime air is introduced into the hydraulic system. Following this procedure may also reduce the number of unnecessary parts replaced for low clutch pedal reserve and high shift effort.

    1. Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure.
    2. Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.
    3. Remove the reservoir cap.
    4. Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid.
    5. Attach the J 43485 (Adapter) to the J 35555 (Mity Vac), or equivalent.

      Important: Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on J 43485. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid after each use.

    6. Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. In some cases, the adapter will fit into the reservoir opening.
    7. Apply a vacuum of 51-68 kPa (15-20 hg) and remove the adapter.
    8. Refill the reservoir to the proper level.
    9. Repeat Steps 6 and 7.
    10. If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops.

      Caution: The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational. Start the vehicle the first time in neutral to help prevent personal injury from vehicle movement and see if the transmission will shift easily into gear.
    11. Pump the clutch pedal until firm (to refill actuator cylinder).
    12. Add additional fluid if needed.
    13. Test drive vehicle to ensure proper operation.

  17. #17
    Next... MrKid's Avatar
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    Sooo...let me get this straight. The vac goes to the reservoir, and not the bleed screw? I was always under the impression that the vac was connected to the bleed screw and was bled like a one man brake job.

  18. #18
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    yep. Vacuum to reservoir. I've tried vacuum at the bleeder screw. It doesn't seem to work as well.

  19. #19
    Next... MrKid's Avatar
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    Damn, I should have looked into a bit more.

  20. #20
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    The J 43485 mentioned in the bulletin is a power steering bleeder adapter. It a big rubber stopper with a tube through it. Very easy to make. A couple guys I know snatch some big rubber stoppers from their science class lab and made them.




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