clutch/trans help

**RedSmokey** · 04-08-2009, 10:53 AM

So me and my buddy pulled my trans yesterday. Got the clutch and flywheels off. Tried for probably almost an hour to get the dam pilot bearing out and cant. Anyone know any different trick to get it out? Yes we used a slide hammer with a few different hooks. Oh, and i forgot to mention its siezed... the dam thing probably got a little warm (likely why it wont come it). Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Also, any trick to disconecting the line to the slave cylinder. I have that little fork tool, but it wont budge, do i need to open the bleader first or something?

**Smittro** · 04-08-2009, 11:17 AM

Originally Posted by RedSmokey

So me and my buddy pulled my trans yesterday. Got the clutch and flywheels off. Tried for probably almost an hour to get the dam pilot bearing out and cant. Anyone know any different trick to get it out? Yes we used a slide hammer with a few different hooks. Oh, and i forgot to mention its siezed... the dam thing probably got a little warm (likely why it wont come it). Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Also, any trick to disconecting the line to the slave cylinder. I have that little fork tool, but it wont budge, do i need to open the bleader first or something?

Cant help with the slave cyl. But you can use a rotory tool (dremel) with a small grinding or cutting bit to cut up the race and take it out in pieces. Or you can try the "old" grease gun in the hole method too. However there's a "freeze" plug in the milling behind the bearing you'll want to be carefull not to push inside the crank. Hope this helped.

**Wesman** · 04-08-2009, 11:49 AM

Originally Posted by Smittro

Cant help with the slave cyl. But you can use a rotory tool (dremel) with a small grinding or cutting bit to cut up the race and take it out in pieces. Or you can try the "old" grease gun in the hole method too. However there's a "freeze" plug in the milling behind the bearing you'll want to be carefull not to push inside the crank. Hope this helped.

DO NOT use the grease gun method. It is a bad idea to stuff anything into the pilot bearing on an LS engine - it will dislodge the core plug behind the pilot bearing, and the plug will fall into the oil galley.

I had a hell of a time getting the pilot bearing out of mine, even with a pilot bearing puller it just wouldn't come out. Finally got it after much frustration.

The dremel/cutting tool may work nicely as well, jut be careful not to damage the crank or any surrounding surfaces.

**Smittro** · 04-08-2009, 12:44 PM

Originally Posted by Wesman

DO NOT use the grease gun method. It is a bad idea to stuff anything into the pilot bearing on an LS engine - it will dislodge the core plug behind the pilot bearing, and the plug will fall into the oil galley.

I had a hell of a time getting the pilot bearing out of mine, even with a pilot bearing puller it just wouldn't come out. Finally got it after much frustration.

The dremel/cutting tool may work nicely as well, jut be careful not to damage the crank or any surrounding surfaces.

YES! I agree I also mentioned this may happen. Aswell as mentioned the dremel. Sorry if I was confussing.

**Josh G** · 04-09-2009, 06:27 PM

Could you use a tap to thread it & then put a bolt in it to get some extra leverage? On the old style (70's) I think you could just keep on turning the tap until it popped out or broke free.

**Smittro** · 04-09-2009, 10:57 PM

Originally Posted by Josh G

Could you use a tap to thread it & then put a bolt in it to get some extra leverage? On the old style (70's) I think you could just keep on turning the tap until it popped out or broke free.

I guess he could try that, But I think he has the needle bearing rather than the brass bushing though. Not sure a tap would work. Also dont want to put too much pressure on the crank plug behind it. I'd just cut it up with a rotory tool and take it out in chunks.

**Josh G** · 04-10-2009, 07:38 AM

Originally Posted by Smittro

I guess he could try that, But I think he has the needle bearing rather than the brass bushing though. Not sure a tap would work. Also dont want to put too much pressure on the crank plug behind it. I'd just cut it up with a rotory tool and take it out in chunks.

See, I'm learning! I haven't taken one of these apart yet, only worked on the older stuff. Looks like these 4th gens can be challenging. I'm getting ready to replace my clutch and was thinking about doing it myself. Shops charge so much for this! My clutch is just way to soft & will slip if I take off at close to three thousand rpms'. Not so good for the track times! I have gone 102.6, but at 14.01. My 60' is only like 2.37. My car is completely stock with 127k.

**RedSmokey** · 04-10-2009, 08:33 AM

Thanks for the help guys. I got it all back together last night. Started to cut the pilot with a dremel, then tried the slide hammer again and got it out. Then ran into the issue of the slave cylinder that GM Parts House gave me was DEFECTIVE! I put it all together and the line wouldnt go back into it. So had to pull the tranny back off and i went to napa and got ANOTHER one and the line slipped right in like it was supposed to. Was working on it till about 11:45 last night, got it together and done though. Im just tired as hell as i didnt get home and to bed till after 12:30 and i get up at about 4am for work.

**DaddySS** · 04-10-2009, 01:11 PM

Good work. You torqued the clutch down in three passes at 1/3 torque, then 2/3 the full torque yes?

BTW, I use the Mity Vac to bleed the system really works well.

**Dr.Crash** · 04-10-2009, 01:20 PM

Originally Posted by DaddySS

Good work. You torqued the clutch down in three passes at 1/3 torque, then 2/3 the full torque yes?

BTW, I use the Mity Vac to bleed the system really works well.

i bought one of those speed bleeders from tick, looks like its gunna work great. i didnt have that great of luck with the mighty vac