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clutch play/loose

This is a discussion on clutch play/loose within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; Sorry, but I'm not a mechanic....please bear with me... It seems as though my clutch only engages during the last ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member Exitstageleft's Avatar
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    clutch play/loose

    Sorry, but I'm not a mechanic....please bear with me...

    It seems as though my clutch only engages during the last 1/3 of a depression. It's kinda 'squishy'. Is this normal? I noticed it at about 6200rpm in third gear the other day.

    Do clutches require 'adjustments'?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Hydraulic clutches, like our cars use, are self-adjusting.

    However, if the pedal feels squishy or engagement does not feel normal, it may need to be bled.

    Old/contaminated fluid or air in the system can wreak havoc on clutch operation.

  3. #3
    Junior Member Exitstageleft's Avatar
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    Well, I've got an update to my clutch issue.

    This may be nothing more than a learning experience for me. As in, I don't know the 'normal' behavior of how a clutch should perform when pushing 6k+ rpms.

    I drove it 2nd gear 60mph @ ~5500rpm then shifted to 3rd. Then I felt the clutch only release back out MAYBE 1/3 of the way. Yep, it was like it was stuck 2/3rds down. It still functioned as I shifted to 4th but it still was like stuck almost on the floor. I then pulled off, turned around and went back home. It functioned but just didn't release all the way. I'm thinking this isn't 'normal' behavior.

    The car cooled down and all then all was normal.

    Can anyone please enlighten me on how it should or should not perform?
    What should my expectations be?

    Thanks.

  4. #4
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    How many miles are on the current clutch?

    Has it ever been service?

  5. #5
    Junior Member Exitstageleft's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    How many miles are on the current clutch?

    Has it ever been service?
    Sorry. I wish I knew the answer. I'm trying to get it into a place my buddy takes his vettes to. They will definitely tell me what should be done.

  6. #6
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Exitstageleft View Post
    Sorry. I wish I knew the answer. I'm trying to get it into a place my buddy takes his vettes to. They will definitely tell me what should be done.
    and charge a ass load of money.


    From what you describe in the post it sounds like you master cylinder has gone. Could also be your slave as well.


    You don't know if the clutch has ever been changed?


    Life span of a stock clutch is about 70,000 miles. Less if it was dog out, more if it was baby. Mine lasted till 108,000, but I'm the 3rd owner.

    If yours is over that mileage I would strongly consider getting a new clutch, master, and slave put in.




    Just hope they don't tell you that the syncros are out. That means a tranny rebuild. For that I would send it to Tick Performance for their stage II build with viper gear ($1800) It will make it damn near bullet proof.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 05-16-2011 at 12:08 PM.

  7. #7
    Junior Member Exitstageleft's Avatar
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    There's 82k mi. on it now. Probably time to address clutch issues then.


    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    and charge a ass load of money.
    True, True.


    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Just hope they don't tell you that the syncros are out. That means a tranny rebuild. For that I would send it to Tick Performance for their stage II build with viper gear ($1800) It will make it damn near bullet proof.
    I'll look into this.

    Thanks much!

  8. #8
    Senior Member wileyCoyote's Avatar
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    replaced my original clutch at 150k miles.

  9. #9
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    OP, Is this type of repair something your willing to do?

    Do you have access to a lift? tools?

    You can do this but if you have no experience under a car I would recommend paying someone. I'd still get the parts you want and make sure they are installed.

  10. #10
    Junior Member Exitstageleft's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    OP, Is this type of repair something your willing to do?

    Do you have access to a lift? tools?

    You can do this but if you have no experience under a car I would recommend paying someone. I'd still get the parts you want and make sure they are installed.

    No tools. No experience. I have to pay for all service done on my ride. Heck, I'm a software engineer...I could probably learn to reprogram them tho. :

  11. #11
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    First thing I would do is check your hydraulic fluid level. If it is low, you probably have a bad slave or master. If it is black, change it.

    Usually the problem you are describing is from: bad slave/master, air in the line, or low/dirty fluid level.

    It doesn't sound like a tranny issue to me. It's not grinding is it when you shift?

    As a side note, the T56 is known for not "smooth" shifting at high RPM's in general.

  12. #12
    Junior Member Exitstageleft's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    It's not grinding is it when you shift?
    No it's not.

  13. #13
    Junior Member Kramsdell's Avatar
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    I know it might sound a little weird but.. Try wrapping your clutch line and heat shield in some heat-reflective tape. I was having the same issues as you, and even had a BAD track experience with my clutch where it got to where I could not shift my car into gear after my burnout/high RPM shifts. I went to autozone and picked up a 15 ft roll of 'cool tape' and wrapped my entire steel-braided clutch line in the stuff, while I was under the car I noticed the line runs VERY close to the exhaust manifold and cats. I've had no issues since I've wrapped my line and head shield. The tape I bought was under 15 dollars, a lot cheaper than ordering an aftermarket master cylinder.

  14. #14
    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kramsdell View Post
    I know it might sound a little weird but.. Try wrapping your clutch line and heat shield in some heat-reflective tape. I was having the same issues as you, and even had a BAD track experience with my clutch where it got to where I could not shift my car into gear after my burnout/high RPM shifts. I went to autozone and picked up a 15 ft roll of 'cool tape' and wrapped my entire steel-braided clutch line in the stuff, while I was under the car I noticed the line runs VERY close to the exhaust manifold and cats. I've had no issues since I've wrapped my line and head shield. The tape I bought was under 15 dollars, a lot cheaper than ordering an aftermarket master cylinder.
    Thats one of the problems for sure. The restriction in the factory line is another.Also the plastic clutch master is junk. Yes, the clutch master is plastic! Go look at the tick performance website. Check out the master cylinder they sell. Its quite simple to change. Doesnt require you dropping the tranny. Get it bled right, and if you still have problems, then you can drop the tranny and change the slave. And the clutch while youre in there.

  15. #15
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    i just replaced my clutch master this weekend. i was having very weird clutch pedal engagment issues.

    my clutch would grab at the mid-point of the travel, but if you held the pedal down with the car in gear, it would lose pressure on the pedal, and when you went to take off, it would only move alittle off the floor and be starting to engage, and when you got it in gear, the pedal would be stuck halfway. i would have to lift it with my toes to shift into 2nd and so on.

    then last thursday, i was sitting in traffic and the clutch pedal lost all its pressure and engaged the clutch for me and started rolling foward, in traffic.


    new master, and a whole bottle of fresh brake fluid bleed thru it and now it is perfect.

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