clutch/pedal problem

**tubjub** · 04-13-2007, 08:23 PM

Here's the prob....under full load/WOT my clutch pedal stays planted agains the floor after my 1 - 2 shift and won't come back up until after i pull it up with my toe and pump it a few times. I am driving a 2000 Camaro SS, all stock except super comp headers and magnaflow muffler, (as far as i know, bought it that way) If anyone has any suggestions for me that would be great. thanx

**Ryanater** · 04-13-2007, 08:30 PM

hmmm... your pedal stays at the floor after shifts? Did you try taking your foot off the pedal?

**tubjub** · 04-13-2007, 08:32 PM

that would help, but for all intensive purposes lets assume i did take my foot off....what else could cause the problem?

**blackbird33** · 04-14-2007, 10:13 AM

it sounds like theres too much air in the lines, i guess you could try bleeding them

**89LX** · 04-16-2007, 02:36 AM

Had same problem on my 2000. It took a new clutch master cylinder to get it right. If your fluid is black the internals are breaking down. Got mine from Fred's Beans.

**Too Fast** · 04-16-2007, 02:45 AM

Originally Posted by 89LX

Had same problem on my 2000. It took a new clutch master cylinder to get it right. If your fluid is black the internals are breaking down. Got mine from Fred's Beans.

And do the drill mod, right? Did your Bean master cylinder come with the line attached to it? When I did the drill mod on my OE master cylinder, I think I pushed the restriction further down the line, and I never was able to drill it completely so my pedal still starts sticking whenever I get on it. So, the '01 & '02 model master cylinder has a new line and do the drill mod to it, right? Also, I pre-bled my line/master cylinder assembly before I re-installed it, as the bleeder valve is in a tight location. (I know there is no air in my system, it works exactly as before my drill attempt. Clutch works perfectly until aggressive driving)

**89LX** · 04-16-2007, 03:39 AM

I wouldn't do the drill mod on the newer verision. Everthing I read on the 2001-2002 there was no need. Some might disagree but I have experienced no problems with the new one and drive hard on ocassion. It came pre-bleed and with line. I didn't know it when I purchased the car (one owner) that the cylinder was going bad at that time. Man when I had the new one installed WHAT a difference!

**lugby** · 04-16-2007, 05:04 AM

A diaphram pressure plate will sometimes not return if it is weak. When you get over about 5,800 RPM they will stick and when you let off the accelerator it makes a popping noise and returns....by that time you need therapy because the engine didn't stop revving at 5,800.....

**Too Fast** · 04-16-2007, 01:53 PM

Originally Posted by 89LX

I wouldn't do the drill mod on the newer verision. Everthing I read on the 2001-2002 there was no need. Some might disagree but I have experienced no problems with the new one and drive hard on ocassion. It came pre-bleed and with line. I didn't know it when I purchased the car (one owner) that the cylinder was going bad at that time. Man when I had the new one installed WHAT a difference!

Sweet! That is what I wanted to hear. No need to mod the new style master cylinder and no problems. I thought I read this somewhere else also. I don't have any popping noise, just the pedal going away after some hard driving, like at the drag strip. My car needs only a couple things right now, the clutch master cylinder and some metal headlight gears. I have rotated the plastic headlight gears a couple times, and now there is no more rotating to be done. Along with a LS6 intake......and the list always grows!!!!!!!!!!