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Clutch pedal curse.

This is a discussion on Clutch pedal curse. within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; First of all I am sorry about beating this dead horse again. A month or so ago I had a ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member Kramsdell's Avatar
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    Clutch pedal curse.

    First of all I am sorry about beating this dead horse again. A month or so ago I had a bad experience at my first time to the track, after my burnout my clutch pedal got very spongy and I couldn't shift into gear. My friend and I got it up on ramps and removed the stock clutch master and bled it, bench bled it, drill modded it and put it back in and bled the clutch from the bleeder screw on the transmission. (the stock master was not showing any sign of leaking and my clutch fluid has been clean since I bought my car in Nov.) The clutch pedal STILL gives me trouble at high RPM, I can run out 1st gear and before I go to shift to 2nd the pedal feels like shit so I stop. Recently I rented a mityvac and bled it from the reservoir. I expected to see bubbles, there were none. So.. should I go ahead and order the 300 dollar tick unit? Will this really solve my clutch issue? Thank you, and sorry again for bringing this beat to death subject up again.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Sounds like a hydraulic issue if it's only at WOT shifts. The Tick MC should help prevent that.

  3. #3
    James Bond Spikito's Avatar
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    mine was like that, i put in a tick MC and havent had an issue since

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    Junior Member Kramsdell's Avatar
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    The only thing that puzzles me is why would my pedal go soft after a burnout? I also lined up again after I let it cool off for about half an hour and this time the pedal came back towards me and was very hard to depress. Pretty embarrassing limping down the 1/4. I ran a 16.4 @ 67 MPH.

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Make sure the line from the master cyl to the tranny isn't touching the headers.

  6. #6
    Junior Member Kramsdell's Avatar
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    The line isn't touching anything. ( I don't have LTs ) I wrapped the entire line AND the heat shield in cool wrap tape and I still have the issue. The only thing I can think of besides getting a tick unit, is cutting two holes and running the damn line inside my car for most of the way. When I got back from the track that night I had my friend drive it to see if he had any input on it and when we got it back my cats were reading almost 600 degrees F, is that a normal temp for cats? The clutch fluid I use is the Prestone dot 4 with a 311F wet boiling point. I regularly ranger bleed the reservoir. I've also had my pedal go soft after I push the pedal in and rev it during normal driving.

  7. #7
    Senior Member wileyCoyote's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kramsdell View Post
    The only thing that puzzles me is why would my pedal go soft after a burnout? I also lined up again after I let it cool off for about half an hour and this time the pedal came back towards me and was very hard to depress. Pretty embarrassing limping down the 1/4. I ran a 16.4 @ 67 MPH.
    i'd suspect heat maybe boiling some of the fluid?

  8. #8
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Ranger bleeding the fluid is not the right way to do it btw.

  9. #9
    Junior Member Kramsdell's Avatar
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    I've tried gravity bleeding and mity vaccing as well, the mity vac drew no bubbles out of the system.

  10. #10
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Well shit guess we're all outta ideas then...

  11. #11
    Junior Member Kramsdell's Avatar
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    I ordered a Tick MC, I was apprehensive of the 300 dollar price tag when my problems began, but at this point it looks well worth the price. I do appreciate all of the help and tips I've gotten from this site, I'd be lost.

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