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Clutch needed! Which one

This is a discussion on Clutch needed! Which one within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; So I have about 500 engine HP. The car (02WS6) dyno'd 422 RWHP. I have a RAM clutch in it ...

  1. #1
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    Clutch needed! Which one

    So I have about 500 engine HP. The car (02WS6) dyno'd 422 RWHP. I have a RAM clutch in it now but have had slippage issues. The car is recintly out of storage and the clutch is slipping like crazy. I have a friend of a friend who works at a performance shop who is looking at it now. He is saying to put a OEM clutch back into it. Personally I'd rather not as I'm looking to do more mods in the future and feel like it's just gonna waste time and money. What clutch should I go with? I'm pretty pissed at the ram clutch ($400), they were saying the throw out bearing is adjustable and May cause Problems in the future. Maybe not problems but may need adjustment and to do so I'd need to drop the transmission. So do I replace the clutch and if so with what one? Sorry I'm just trying to make a quick post cause the car is with them now and need to know what to do... Thanks!!

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    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjm02ws6 View Post
    So I have about 500 engine HP. The car (02WS6) dyno'd 422 RWHP. I have a RAM clutch in it now but have had slippage issues. The car is recintly out of storage and the clutch is slipping like crazy. I have a friend of a friend who works at a performance shop who is looking at it now. He is saying to put a OEM clutch back into it. Personally I'd rather not as I'm looking to do more mods in the future and feel like it's just gonna waste time and money. What clutch should I go with? I'm pretty pissed at the ram clutch ($400), they were saying the throw out bearing is adjustable and May cause Problems in the future. Maybe not problems but may need adjustment and to do so I'd need to drop the transmission. So do I replace the clutch and if so with what one? Sorry I'm just trying to make a quick post cause the car is with them now and need to know what to do... Thanks!!
    Putting an OEM LS1 clutch in a 500hp car would be stupid for lack of a better term. Even an LS7 clutch "which is now the stock replacement for an ls1" is on the fence for that amount of power.

    I'd look at the monster clutches if I were you...
    Last edited by theorangeguy; 05-30-2015 at 11:16 AM.
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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I have a Spec Stage 3+ that's rated for 800 ft-lb of torque and have been running it for close to 6 years now and I'm at over 500rwhp in a Procharged Camaro. Zero issues and the pedal feels close to stock.
    It's on jackstands.

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    I have a monster twin disk in my c5z, it's got like 5k on it now, it's not the cheapest option but I love the clutch and it's held well through the track days and the clutch dumps. Plus the clutch feel is perfect. Right now I'm making 450 and 410 at the wheels but I think there rated around 800 and there designed to be dumped

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    When you get into the 500 hp range you should really think about a twin disc setup. It may cost a few more dollars but it will be worth it in the long run.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
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    Junior Member wraith23's Avatar
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    I have a centerforce D7X street/ strip clutch which is equivalent to a stage 3 racing clutch. Mines rated to handle 1500 hp and it's not a pain to drive in traffic. I would recommend it personally
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    Senior Member raynor139's Avatar
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    At the least something like a monster stage 2 is in order. The LS7 like said before is what is used as a stock replacement now. Great for stock or close to stock cars but with what your putting down you definitely need to go aftermarket.
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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Some of the clutches being recommended in here are of the finger style for the clutch disk.

    I would NOT recommend that type. I would get a full surface.

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    Thanks for the input! I still havent had the time to finish my research, but what ive come up with so far is a twin disk as that will hold more HP and maintain a easier clutch feel. It seems like a lot of people are happy with the monsters, so I'll start the research there. Actually I think im gonna have someone else take a look and see if its the RAM clutch that I have in it now, or just the flywheel (that's causing my issues)..
    Anyway thanks again!

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    Member RONS98TA's Avatar
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    Are you using the stock clutch master cylinder? I have heard some people having issue's with them. Just a thought.
    1998 Pontiac TA, stock heads, FAST 90, FAST 90 TB, FLP LT, off road y-pipe with cat delete, flow master muffler, comp cams 54-457-11 223/231-610/617-112 LSA, Pro charger D1SC with FMIC @ 8psi, FROST tune, VIG 3200 stall, built 4l60e, snow meth kit, MOSER 12 bolt 373 gears, Derale 13900 trans cooler.

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    Member RONS98TA's Avatar
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    Also, since it just came out of storage, i'm wondering if some moisture build up got on the flywheel causing some rust? If you have ever noticed when it rains hard and you don't drive your car for a week or so, some rust build will build up on the rotors, and the brakes wont work for nothing until the slight rust is worn off. A few hard stops and the rust is gone. Dunno if it's even possible to get moisture onto the flywheel or not, but again, just another thought.

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    Senior Member Whamhammer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RONS98TA View Post
    Also, since it just came out of storage, i'm wondering if some moisture build up got on the flywheel causing some rust? If you have ever noticed when it rains hard and you don't drive your car for a week or so, some rust build will build up on the rotors, and the brakes wont work for nothing until the slight rust is worn off. A few hard stops and the rust is gone. Dunno if it's even possible to get moisture onto the flywheel or not, but again, just another thought.
    I dont see why a flywheel couldnt get moisture. Moisture is in the air and condensation can happen.

  14. #14
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Yup you can get a rusty flywheel with just moisture in the air. I had a car sitting inside a garage for 30+ years and the clutch disc was literally stuck to the flywheel from corrosion and wouldn't release I had to use some WD40 and a screw driver working around it to eventually pop it loose. Worked just fine afterwards, maybe I should use the darn thing more often, lol. The other solution was one of the best things I ever did......getting the hell outta that muggy humid climate and planting my but in the dry desert

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