clutch hyd issues

**werewolf** · 12-12-2011, 04:43 PM

kinda long story but I need some advice to help trouble shoot my clutch. When I am stopped and hold the clutch down the clutch starts to engage. When I put it in neutral and then push the pedal in again it goes half way until I get pressure again and then have to pump the clutch pedal to get full travel. My fluid is black and I have changed the fluid several times and get about a day till it is solid black again. So my question is do I most likely have a bad master, bad slave or are both screwed? What throws me off is I am not loosing fluid but where would the fluid bypass? I do not have any fluid on the bottom of the bell housing that I can see and the master is leak free also. I appreciate any help that you guys can pass on here. Got to love this happening at Christmas.

**blackcar** · 12-13-2011, 08:30 AM

It is always hard to tell if it is the master or the slave. But it sounds like the rubber in one or both is eat up. After I had problems with mine and had to change my master, I found out you should change the fluid often to help keep this from happening. There is a link on here somewhere that will tell you more. got to head out right now. When I come back I may try and find it for you.

**werewolf** · 12-13-2011, 02:42 PM

are you talking about using the syringe to suck the fluid out of the resivoir? That is how I did it so far. Looks like I need to order the whole system. Thanks for confirming my worst fear. Well good thing I have a TDY coming up to earn some extra money.

**0verkill** · 12-13-2011, 03:51 PM

This would be a good time to upgrade to a tick master but the are costly compared to a stock one but when you do it I would look at getting the tick remote bleader or you will have to cut a hole in you trans tunnal to blead it there is a right up by a member hi-po on how to do it

**werewolf** · 12-14-2011, 04:03 PM

yea that is kind of my plan. the question is do I add a new clutch to my costs. thanks again for the help

**0verkill** · 12-14-2011, 07:21 PM

You have to pull the trans to get to the slave so if you can swing it by all means do that's where I'm at right now too and I'm looking at the ls7 set up

**blackcar** · 12-15-2011, 05:19 AM

Originally Posted by werewolf

are you talking about using the syringe to suck the fluid out of the resivoir? That is how I did it so far. Looks like I need to order the whole system. Thanks for confirming my worst fear. Well good thing I have a TDY coming up to earn some extra money.

Yeah, that's it. You need to check your fluid often, like every gas fill-up. Any time it is cloudy suck it out and replace it.

If I was you I would start with just the master. It is easier to change then the slave. If that fixes the problem I would leave the slave alone.

BTW I was able to bleed mine with out cutting a hole.

**blackcar** · 12-15-2011, 05:31 AM

couple of good links

Clutch Care

http://www.ls1.com/forums/f65/how-bl...ty-vac-124254/

**2002ssslp** · 12-15-2011, 05:40 AM

It looks like you have some form of contaminate in the system that is eating away at the rubber in the master and/or slave cylinder. You should replace both and use the remote bleeding kit or Mity Vac. You WILL need to bleed the system several times to get all the contaminates out of the system. You are looking at a few hundred dollars. Bad time of year for this to happen.

**werewolf** · 12-19-2011, 07:29 AM

well since I need to start planning and saving for all the parts what clutch would work well in a stock powerlevel but still be good with my eventual plans of 500 hp or so?

**0verkill** · 12-19-2011, 11:01 PM

i like the ls7 set-up it can be had for around $500, has a stock feel and if it holdeds up in 505hp zo6 vetter it should be fine for what you want to do with it

**Deviant LS1** · 12-20-2011, 06:11 AM

I really don't like the LS7 setup. It's meant to hold 505 crank HP in a 3200lb car but in the long run it's still a factory style clutch that was not meant to be thoroughly abused like most after market setups. The LS7 clutch is also an inch larger than the factory LS1 setup. That's great for clamping but there is extra weight involved.

LS7 assembly= 57lbs
LS1 assembly= 49lbs

The worst kind of weight is rotating weight and this is being added directly to your crank. I've seen cars lose 10-15 wheel by "upgrading" to an LS7 setup over an LS1 clutch, factory or after market.

**werewolf** · 12-23-2011, 04:38 AM

for a street driven daily driver should I stick with a steel flywheel or go aluminum?

**Deviant LS1** · 12-23-2011, 05:11 AM

Stick with steel.

**0verkill** · 12-23-2011, 08:40 AM

yes steel

**werewolf** · 12-25-2011, 04:11 PM

Sounds good. I found that Tick has full kits with all new hyd system and clutch for about a grand to 1200 so time to park the Z28 and save some cash

**35th-ANV-SS** · 12-25-2011, 08:23 PM

Tick sells clutches? I did not know this.

**werewolf** · 12-26-2011, 08:29 AM

The kit I am looking at has a monster clutch, new flywheel, adjustable master, new slave, speed bleeder, shim kit, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing. I guess my big question now is go with 18 or 28 lb flywheel when I order this kit.