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clutch

This is a discussion on clutch within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; alright i was out messing around tonight and i was going around 50 mph and took it almost the yelloow ...

  1. #1
    infantryman tingo99's Avatar
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    white
    1999 trans am

    clutch

    alright i was out messing around tonight and i was going around 50 mph and took it almost the yelloow line then shifted but when i went to push my clutch in again it was stuck somehow almost all the way down but i could still push it in a little more to shift i rode around for another 5-10 min. to see if it went away but nothing so i came home can anyone tell what that is and what should i do? im kinda freaked out right now

  2. #2
    infantryman tingo99's Avatar
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    white
    1999 trans am

    nervermind its all good i heard its clutch line swelling or something but is kinda normal if it happens when u get ur rpms that high

  3. #3
    Member fast enough Z28's Avatar
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    silver
    98 camaro z28 m6

    There is a problem probably your slave cyclinder or clutch master cyclinder. My money is on the slave.

  4. #4
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    NBM
    99 Z28

    Wound up being my master when I had the same thing . Try the master first so u don't pull the tranny for nothing

  5. #5
    infantryman tingo99's Avatar
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    white
    1999 trans am

    well i got in it this morn and i just pulled the clutch toward me a little and it came back and i tokk it for a ride and its like normal its weird

  6. #6
    Your dealership guy konigandy6's Avatar
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    Velocity Yellow
    2008 Corvette Z06

    Mine does the same thing, but you have to get it HOT!

    I just had a cam installed and now my engine revs to over 6300rpm. After running the car hard once, the clutch pedal has a lot of loose travel in it before it actually grabs. If I drive it normally for about a mile and let it cool down, it is fine.

    Here is my question, without doing the "drill mod" what are my options? Replace the master cylinder? Use a GM one or an aftermarket heavy duty one?

    2008 Z06 - Velocity Yellow - OEM

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  7. #7
    infantryman tingo99's Avatar
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    my friend has an 06 gto had the same thing happen to him i belive he found a place that sold braided lines which got rid of the swelling

  8. #8
    Member fast enough Z28's Avatar
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    silver
    98 camaro z28 m6

    Quote Originally Posted by tingo99 View Post
    my friend has an 06 gto had the same thing happen to him i belive he found a place that sold braided lines which got rid of the swelling
    Well being the year your car is the slave cylinder was a bad design for the 98-00. I have done the drill mod and replaced the master cyclinder. It was the slave. I have even called alot of transmission shops and they will say the general problem is the slave. The drill mod just made me shift a little smoother.

  9. #9
    infantryman tingo99's Avatar
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    cool do u have a link where it tells u how to do the drill mod. i would like to do it i dont want to deal with that again

  10. #10
    Your dealership guy konigandy6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tingo99 View Post
    cool do u have a link where it tells u how to do the drill mod. i would like to do it i dont want to deal with that again
    Sticking clutch pedal write-up

  11. #11
    used and abused at wot ibanez7's Avatar
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    the drill mod is a joke.

    think of physics regarding force and fluid.

    your clutch hydraulics is a closed system, when your press the clutch pedal the fluid has to go somewhere, the faster you push the pedal yes the faster the fluid will flow, and the same volume of fluid will flow through regardless of the whole size. it just comes down to how fast you push the pedal. If doing the drill mod allows your to press the pedal faster, then maybe a driver mod is more important. the drill mod cant hurt, unless you dont flush out the line after drilling, however dont expect a cure.

    I do not know one performance shop that supports the drill mod. Even m6 cars that are running 9 sec quarter miles do not do the drill mod.

    The only ones supporting the drill mod are lsx forum users.


    Now in regards to this clutch situation:

    your clutch line is not swelling...getting hot and pushing contaminated fluid maybe.

    Hydraulics fluid has a boiling point, and creates contaminants in the line when pushed to or past the boiling point.

    -you must ask yourself how many miles are on the clutch/hydraulics/hydraulics fluid.
    -what kinds of driving does this car see, spirited daily driving, track slave, grocery getter

    with 4th gens being a few years old now, i would do this:

    -check your fluid, ifs its not a clean clear bronze color, FLUSH IT. If you see a black tint to the color FLUSH IT. If you see black particles, you master cylinder may be going out.
    regardless unless your fluid is fresh, flush out the system.

    -pick a brake/hydraulic fluid with a high boiling point. Valvoline synthetic is typically the highest most department stores stock.

    -once the system is flushed, bleed it properly. A mod that does help in bleeding and flushing, is drilling a hole in your floorboard right above the bleeder screw. this is great because you can bleed without needing to jack up the car and you dont need an assistant. Just make sure you dont let the reservoir get low and suck in air.

    -if you feel the system is getting to hot, wrap the braided hydraulic line with a heat wrap or exhaust wrap. Also the sheetmetal heat deflector can be bent slightly to allow more fresh air to flow past the hydraulic line.


    If this does not help, then inspecting the master and or slave will be needed. With the year of your car, I am guessing your slave or master is shot. The 98-00 slaves where not as good as the 01-02 slaves, which gm has revised numerous times.

  12. #12
    Your dealership guy konigandy6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ibanez7 View Post
    the drill mod is a joke.

    think of physics regarding force and fluid.

    your clutch hydraulics is a closed system, when your press the clutch pedal the fluid has to go somewhere, the faster you push the pedal yes the faster the fluid will flow, and the same volume of fluid will flow through regardless of the whole size. it just comes down to how fast you push the pedal. If doing the drill mod allows your to press the pedal faster, then maybe a driver mod is more important. the drill mod cant hurt, unless you dont flush out the line after drilling, however dont expect a cure.

    I do not know one performance shop that supports the drill mod. Even m6 cars that are running 9 sec quarter miles do not do the drill mod.

    The only ones supporting the drill mod are lsx forum users.


    Now in regards to this clutch situation:

    your clutch line is not swelling...getting hot and pushing contaminated fluid maybe.

    Hydraulics fluid has a boiling point, and creates contaminants in the line when pushed to or past the boiling point.

    -you must ask yourself how many miles are on the clutch/hydraulics/hydraulics fluid.
    -what kinds of driving does this car see, spirited daily driving, track slave, grocery getter

    with 4th gens being a few years old now, i would do this:

    -check your fluid, ifs its not a clean clear bronze color, FLUSH IT. If you see a black tint to the color FLUSH IT. If you see black particles, you master cylinder may be going out.
    regardless unless your fluid is fresh, flush out the system.

    -pick a brake/hydraulic fluid with a high boiling point. Valvoline synthetic is typically the highest most department stores stock.

    -once the system is flushed, bleed it properly. A mod that does help in bleeding and flushing, is drilling a hole in your floorboard right above the bleeder screw. this is great because you can bleed without needing to jack up the car and you dont need an assistant. Just make sure you dont let the reservoir get low and suck in air.

    -if you feel the system is getting to hot, wrap the braided hydraulic line with a heat wrap or exhaust wrap. Also the sheetmetal heat deflector can be bent slightly to allow more fresh air to flow past the hydraulic line.


    If this does not help, then inspecting the master and or slave will be needed. With the year of your car, I am guessing your slave or master is shot. The 98-00 slaves where not as good as the 01-02 slaves, which gm has revised numerous times.
    Thanks for the information! Is the valvoline synthetic the same as running DOT 5 fluid?

  13. #13
    infantryman tingo99's Avatar
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    cool good info im goin to so all that

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