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Thread: Clutch?

  1. #1
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    1968 Cutlass 350 auto red
    2000 z-28 6 spd. White

    Clutch?

    I;m rebuilding my tranny this week and I was planning on doing the clutch while I got it out cause it has 100k on it but anyways, all I have is lid, exhaust, LTs, MAF, and throttle body and I wasn't planning on doing much more to it. I occasionally do a 0-100 and I do a lot of around town driving. Should I go with a stock clutch or maybe step it up? I don't want anything much heavier, but a little heavier is ok. Thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Sunset Orange Metalic
    2001 Camaro SS

    Clutch


  3. #3
    Member zmg00camaross's Avatar
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    pewter
    2000 camaro ss

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by tatertot91 View Post
    Yup do this one

  4. #4
    Member side2000's Avatar
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    red
    2000 camaro ss

    ^^agreed.

  5. #5
    Member One_Bad_TA's Avatar
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    2000 Trans Am WS.6

    Ive heard quite a few bad things about the spec clutches. Some chatter excessively or have engagement problems

  6. #6
    Member side2000's Avatar
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    red
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    that organic should be ok. single disc ceramics generally are the ones that chatter.

  7. #7
    Your dealership guy konigandy6's Avatar
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    2008 Corvette Z06

    With that set up, why not go with the LS7 package. Includes flywheel too and you have room for more modifications down the road.

    http://www.sdpc2000.com/product/SDLS...cFlywheel.aspx

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  8. #8
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    1968 Cutlass 350 auto red
    2000 z-28 6 spd. White

    Quote Originally Posted by konigandy6 View Post
    With that set up, why not go with the LS7 package. Includes flywheel too and you have room for more modifications down the road.

    http://www.sdpc2000.com/product/SDLS...cFlywheel.aspx
    well, because I really wan't looking to spend that much

  9. #9
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    1968 Cutlass 350 auto red
    2000 z-28 6 spd. White

    Quote Originally Posted by tatertot91 View Post
    Yeah, that looks pretty good thanks.

  10. #10
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    1968 Cutlass 350 auto red
    2000 z-28 6 spd. White

    Do you guys think I should do the slave cylinder too?

  11. #11
    Senior Member Zboner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tatertot91 View Post

    your going to have to buy there flywheel with that to for it to work properly.

  12. #12
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    1968 Cutlass 350 auto red
    2000 z-28 6 spd. White

    Ah man are you sure? Why?

  13. #13
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    1968 Cutlass 350 auto red
    2000 z-28 6 spd. White

    How about KY speed? Do you guys think that a spec 1 from them would be just as good?

  14. #14
    Impounded
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    79 T/A -91 Firebird
    1998 Trans Am -Oynx Black

    Quote Originally Posted by tomz28 View Post
    How about KY speed? Do you guys think that a spec 1 from them would be just as good?
    BEST IDEA. They are a great place to deal with, I ordered from them and the parts manufacturely directly at the same time and their parts got here first.. from the same place!!!

    Mark/Bobby are great guys and they will hook you up!

  15. #15
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by konigandy6 View Post
    With that set up, why not go with the LS7 package. Includes flywheel too and you have room for more modifications down the road.

    http://www.sdpc2000.com/product/SDLS...cFlywheel.aspx
    That is an excellent deal for the clutch kit and flywheel. Thats what I bought for my car when I replaced my clutch, and its been great.

    Quote Originally Posted by tomz28
    Ah man are you sure? Why?
    As a general rule you never change a clutch out without replacing or resurfacing the flywheel. This has always been true for any car, but its even more important on our cars, because if you don't you will almost definitely cook the clutch prematurely. You will get chatter and engagement issues, which will be very tough on your brand new clutch.

    Its also not reccommended that you resurface the flywheel on LS1 cars, because the clutch setup uses a concentric slave cylinder. Meaning any variation in the thickness of the clutch assembly or flywheel WILL result in improper engagement in the clutch pedal. This can be caused both by aftermarket clutch assemblies as well as worn/resurfaced/aftermarket flywheels. If you go to your local auto parts store, chances are they will sell you the clutch AND flywheel together as a package, for this very reason.

    In order to keep OEM reliability, go with OEM parts. Which is why I highly reccommend the LS7 kit. No slave shims or modifications required, just bolt it in and you're good to go.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Zboner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    That is an excellent deal for the clutch kit and flywheel. Thats what I bought for my car when I replaced my clutch, and its been great.



    As a general rule you never change a clutch out without replacing or resurfacing the flywheel. This has always been true for any car, but its even more important on our cars, because if you don't you will almost definitely cook the clutch prematurely. You will get chatter and engagement issues, which will be very tough on your brand new clutch.

    Its also not reccommended that you resurface the flywheel on LS1 cars, because the clutch setup uses a concentric slave cylinder. Meaning any variation in the thickness of the clutch assembly or flywheel WILL result in improper engagement in the clutch pedal. This can be caused both by aftermarket clutch assemblies as well as worn/resurfaced/aftermarket flywheels. If you go to your local auto parts store, chances are they will sell you the clutch AND flywheel together as a package, for this very reason.

    In order to keep OEM reliability, go with OEM parts. Which is why I highly reccommend the LS7 kit. No slave shims or modifications required, just bolt it in and you're good to go.
    and Spec says when ever you replace your setup with there clutch to replace your flywheel with one of there's.

  17. #17
    JUISSED Midnight02's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
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    Another vote for the LS7 kit -- by the time you pick up an aftermarket clutch and flywheel, you'll end up spending almost enough to get the LS7 kit. The holding power is greatly improved from the stock clutch, however it remains stock street manners and fitment.

    I've thrown well over 550+ rwhp at mine for a while now and haven't had the first problem with it.
    2002 Camaro SS M6, 2.5 PRC 5.3L heads, TFS 228/230 cam, FAST 92, bolt ons + a 10 lb bottle in the back.


    1989 Corvette L98, A4, Full bolt ons, etc.

  18. #18
    Senior Member Zboner's Avatar
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    the only spec I would get drive a DD car is a spec 2 or 3+ the regular ones do not have the street temperment that the LS7 has

  19. #19
    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    Stock
    2002 Camaro

    Ya deff go with the LS7. I had a spec before and it was a pile of

  20. #20
    Member Bearcat's Avatar
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    Machine Silver
    2004 C5Z06 Corvette

    Yep, I have a Spec I with 1000 miles or 6 months.
    It was my first and will be my last Spec clutch.

    Replaced all the hydraulics (brand new pre-bled GM), new flywheel,
    new pressure/plate, disc, locktite and proper torque.

    It shifts great but it's already starting to slip at 5th and 6th at low RPMs.
    I'm fairly sure the provided shim is the problem, it might be slightly pushing
    the throwout bearing into the pressure/plate fingers.





    .
    -= 2004 Machine Silver C5Z06 Vette =-

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