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Which clutch????????????

This is a discussion on Which clutch???????????? within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; I have a 2001 WS6,6spd,with 112,000mi...msd plug wires,slp lid,mac air filter, hooker aerochamber muffler...bought it completely stock 4 months ago ...

  1. #1
    Impounded
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    Black as black can be
    2001 Trans Am WS6

    Which clutch????????????

    I have a 2001 WS6,6spd,with 112,000mi...msd plug wires,slp lid,mac air filter, hooker aerochamber muffler...bought it completely stock 4 months ago and added them boltons and soon after bought and ran it at track and first pass it went 13.08...then it wouldnt go into 3rd after that, and hasnt went into 5th since day 1...well I took the tranny out and am trying to find a place to send it to I wanted to send it to T56rebuilds.com but I guess they went outta business or something....my question is what clutch to get?...I took exhaust manifolds off,and cat system...im going to add pacesetter headers and Y pipe and have the emissions 02's tuned out along with a whole tune of everything...so I have these clutches picked out...centerforce dual friction,spec stage 2 or 3 or ram powergrip....or LS6 or LS7 kit?....im not doing much after the new tranny and headers and tune, i want to run 12.50's or around it so I need half a second, i'll get that with headers,y pipe and tune and built tranny and good clutch, so which clutch for what I have do you recomend?...

  2. #2
    Member WS6ICK2K's Avatar
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    2000 Trans Am WS6

    I like the LS7 from your choices above. Holds 505 hp and feels stock, the only disadvantage is thats its heavier.

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    Senior Member Bottesini's Avatar
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    T56rebuilds is now sixspeedsinc. Just had mine rebuilt this summer by them. As for clutches I am very happy with my RAM, though it is not one of the normal ones listed. It does chatter some, but not very bad at all and it grabs great.

    If you are going to be running on the track fairly often I would stay away from the LS7. It is great for a street car, but the track can tear them up. Remember the 505hp rating is for the flywheel in a light Z06.

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    LS1 chosen son lemons12's Avatar
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    i have an idea.. run your car off a cliff..








    with you in it, of course...

  5. #5
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    How often do you plan on going to the track, and how hard do you launch?? That makes all the difference between clutch selection.

    If its primarily a street car and only sees the track a few times each season, I'd reccommend the LS7 clutch. Its got excellent street manners, stock engagement, and it can hold well over 500HP. I've heard a lot of people complain about poor longevity with Spec clutches, and spec 3 is overkill for a bolt on car on the street. A lot of people seem to be very happy with RAM, but they are quite a bit more expensive, and won't have the best street manners. I'd stay away from centerforce, the sliding weights can have a tendancy to get stuck on the pressure plate fingers, causing an imbalance and horrible vibrations. They also put more strain on the hydraulic system at higher RPM's, since the effort required to disengage the clutch becomes significantly greater.

  6. #6
    Member Justin93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bottesini View Post
    T56rebuilds is now sixspeedsinc. Just had mine rebuilt this summer by them. As for clutches I am very happy with my RAM, though it is not one of the normal ones listed. It does chatter some, but not very bad at all and it grabs great.

    If you are going to be running on the track fairly often I would stay away from the LS7. It is great for a street car, but the track can tear them up. Remember the 505hp rating is for the flywheel in a light Z06.
    t56 rebuilds-Sixspeeds inc is out of business now. there was a thread on tech about it. I had my t56 rebuilt at Tick performance and they did an awesome job. Check them out!

    I personally would say LS7. That is what I have on my car and it is a great setup!!!

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    Member One_Bad_TA's Avatar
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    Where is the cheapest place to buy the ls7? with pressure plate and everything

  8. #8
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA View Post
    Where is the cheapest place to buy the ls7? with pressure plate and everything
    SDPC

    http://www.sdpc2000.com/product/SDLS...cFlywheel.aspx

    I don't think you'll find a better deal anywhere else.

  9. #9
    Member One_Bad_TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    SDPC

    http://www.sdpc2000.com/product/SDLS...cFlywheel.aspx

    I don't think you'll find a better deal anywhere else.
    Thanks man. how tough is it to do a clutch swap yourself with the help of a lift and tranny jack?

  10. #10
    LS1 chosen son lemons12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA View Post
    Thanks man. how tough is it to do a clutch swap yourself with the help of a lift and tranny jack?
    theres a writer up of that and full tranny rebuild somewhere floating around on tech.com

  11. #11
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    SDPC

    http://www.sdpc2000.com/product/SDLS...cFlywheel.aspx

    I don't think you'll find a better deal anywhere else.
    I'm not certain but from the description it doesn't include the slave cylinder/throwout bearing setup.....

    Thats probably another $100 or so.

    I don't think I would go through all the trouble of swapping a clutch without changing the slave cylinder while I'm already in there,,,,something to think about when buying a clutch kit.

  12. #12
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    I'm not certain but from the description it doesn't include the slave cylinder/throwout bearing setup.....

    Thats probably another $100 or so.

    I don't think I would go through all the trouble of swapping a clutch without changing the slave cylinder while I'm already in there,,,,something to think about when buying a clutch kit.
    Correct, the kit does not include a slave cylinder, pilot, throwout, or alignment tool. You get the pressure plate, clutch disc, flywheel, and bolts for both the pressure plate and flywheel. I know because I bought one just recently

    Slave will run you around $130 from RPM Speed, which is where I bought mine from. It comes with a new throwout bearing attached. Its definitely a good idea to change the slave while you're in there, because if it fails (and they do), you'll have to pull the entire transmission out again, and you risk it taking out the clutch if it fails as well. Not worth the risk.

  13. #13
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA View Post
    Thanks man. how tough is it to do a clutch swap yourself with the help of a lift and tranny jack?
    Not too bad overall. You need to disconnect the torque arm from the mount, remove the shifter, unplug all the wiring harnesses going to the transmission, remove the driveshaft, and possibly remove the exhaust if its in the way. You'll also need to remove the clutch line going to the slave cylinder. Its a quick connect fitting, so you push in on the white sleeve with a disconnect tool (or 2 screwdrivers, one on each side) until it pops out. It can be a pain the first time you do it, because it will probably be somewhat stuck in there, but you'll know when it pops out. Then remove the drain plug from the side of the trans and drain the fluid, otherwise you will have a mess when you tilt the trans backwards upon taking it out.

    Then you can put your trans jack under the case of the transmission and remove the crossmember and mount. Then you'll want to remove all the bolts that hold the transmission to the bellhousing. Beware, the bolt on the top right of the trans is a bitch to get to. You can't see it, so you just have to feel for it until you can get the socket on it. The vent tube is also attached to that bolt, which gets in the way and makes it even harder to access.

    Once all the bolts are removed that hold the trans to the bellhousing, you can slide the transmission backwards and out of the clutch/bellhousing. It will need to come straight back, so this is where you need to make sure you have enough clearance with the exhaust. It may be tough to break it loose from the bellhousing, but once its loose it should slide right out. However, note that this is no saginaw 4 speed - the T56 is HEAVY. Its close to 150lbs, and it can come down pretty fast if you're not careful. Make sure the trans jack is stable, and strap it down if you are able to.

    Once the trans is out, you can proceed to unbolt the bellhousing. The upper bolts are a bitch to get to (notice a pattern here), so be careful not to round them off with the socket. I ended up using a 1/4" drive ratchet with extensions and a swivel u-joint to get to them, that was the only thing that would fit up in there between the floor. Once you get the bellhousing bolts off you can unbolt the pressure plate, remove the clutch disc, and unbolt the flywheel. Installation is reverse of removal

  14. #14
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    Correct, the kit does not include a slave cylinder, pilot, throwout, or alignment tool. You get the pressure plate, clutch disc, flywheel, and bolts for both the pressure plate and flywheel. I know because I bought one just recently

    Slave will run you around $130 from RPM Speed, which is where I bought mine from. It comes with a new throwout bearing attached. Its definitely a good idea to change the slave while you're in there, because if it fails (and they do), you'll have to pull the entire transmission out again, and you risk it taking out the clutch if it fails as well. Not worth the risk.
    Ya thats what I was gettin at.

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