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Clunking into gear... How do I fix it?

This is a discussion on Clunking into gear... How do I fix it? within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS Try shifting at a higher RPM and see if it still happens. I'm just curious. I ...

  1. #21
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Try shifting at a higher RPM and see if it still happens. I'm just curious.
    I will. As for 1st gear, though, how high should I rev it before letting off the clutch? Over 2500 seems a bit much, no?

    All right: I'm off to bed. I'll try changing my shifting on the way to work tomorrow and see if there's a difference.

  2. #22
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Shifting at or around 2500RPM will not damage anything. You could shift a little lower, but I always have shifted around that and have never had an issue from it. I occasionally shift at 6300RPM also

  3. #23
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Do you mean when you are first starting to pull off from a stop?

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    Today on my way home, I had an experience as I was coming off the clutch in 1st gear. I let off the clutch just like any other gear, but I got the "juttering" as I released the clutch. I let it out "too fast." I was already going about 7 or 8 mph by the time I fully released the pedal. To me, it seems as if I'm not rolling fast enough for some part of the drive train, though it doesn't feel like it wants to stall...
    I think you are definitely describing a clutch issue. What clutch is in the car now?

    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Do you mean when you are first starting to pull off from a stop?
    I think he is.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Do you mean when you are first starting to pull off from a stop?
    Right.

    As for the shifting at higher rpms, I don't experience the juttering when I get it spooled up past 2000.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    I think you are definitely describing a clutch issue. What clutch is in the car now?
    Don't know what clutch is in there. I am the third owner. Previous owner did not install a clutch, but I don't know about the first owner. The reason I'm concerned about it is because of this short thread where I posed the original concern.

  6. #26
    Senior Member wileyCoyote's Avatar
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    op, ..not sure what your experience is w/ driving a manual?.. it could be you are letting the clutch out too fast w/out also giving it some gas?? that could cause the josltling you are describing, ...of course it could be the clutch pretty much worn out too (mileage on car/clutch=?).

    sounds like this is all low RPM, low speed shifts? are you having problem shifing out of 1st gear? is it the "skip shift" you are fighting? this would make it impossible/hard to shift from 1st to 2nd, if you aren't giving enough throttle and at low RPM (assuming stock config)...

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wileyCoyote View Post
    op, ..not sure what your experience is w/ driving a manual?.. it could be you are letting the clutch out too fast w/out also giving it some gas?? that could cause the josltling you are describing, ...of course it could be the clutch pretty much worn out too (mileage on car/clutch=?).

    sounds like this is all low RPM, low speed shifts? are you having problem shifing out of 1st gear? is it the "skip shift" you are fighting? this would make it impossible/hard to shift from 1st to 2nd, if you aren't giving enough throttle and at low RPM (assuming stock config)...
    I learned how to drive stick here and there before buying this car. I have been daily driving this car since April of last year. You bring up a good point about the skip shift. Mine is tuned out, but I have done the 1st --> 4th shift just to see what the factory was thinking when they designed it. I rarely use it, but when I do, it just feels so wrong... more likely to "clunk."

    When I was learning to drive manual, everyone preached that you need to get off the clutch as quickly as possible and that riding the clutch (even to park the car up hill, for example) was the worst thing you could do. So, now, I try to be quick getting off the clutch. But unless I'm really gunning it, coming off the clutch quickly gets me rattled back and forth in my seat.

    Anyone in the Pacific NW want to try driving my car?

  8. #28
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    It sounds like maybe you are trying to get off the clutch too quickly.

    I let off the clutch pedal slowly while at the same time am giving it gas. It's a balancing act. One foot goes up slowly while the other foot is going down slowly.

    I almost think that you are releasing the clutch pedal too quick (which would cause the clutch to engage hard which could be the "clunk" you are feeling). Also, trying to shift the car at very low RPM's will result in that feeling like you are not in the right gear for the RPM's/torque on the car.

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    Senior Member wileyCoyote's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    I learned how to drive stick here and there before buying this car. I have been daily driving this car since April of last year. You bring up a good point about the skip shift. Mine is tuned out, but I have done the 1st --> 4th shift just to see what the factory was thinking when they designed it. I rarely use it, but when I do, it just feels so wrong... more likely to "clunk."

    When I was learning to drive manual, everyone preached that you need to get off the clutch as quickly as possible and that riding the clutch (even to park the car up hill, for example) was the worst thing you could do. So, now, I try to be quick getting off the clutch. But unless I'm really gunning it, coming off the clutch quickly gets me rattled back and forth in my seat.

    Anyone in the Pacific NW want to try driving my car?
    i think you might be letting the clutch out too fast, ...and perhaps w/out easing into the gas simultaneously - that's the way i try to do it, anyway... but, if you let it out too fast you're driveline slop is causing the sound/feel you are describing - that is my guess anyway.. probably harder on the rear end if you let off fast because of the backlash/slop - i know my stock clutch went 150k miles before i just got it replaced,...my rear differential, however, only went 90k.

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Okay. Sounds good. My car has 58000 miles on it, so I don't think mileage is going to be an issue. Age could be, but I'll chalk it up to driver error for now. Thanks, guys.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Definitely keep us posted.

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    Just want to add here I would not get a tunnel mounted torque arm if clunking annoys you.

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by INMY01TA View Post
    Just want to add here I would not get a tunnel mounted torque arm if clunking annoys you.
    Can you elaborate please? Are you saying that a torque arm will increase the clunking during shifts? I cannot understand how that would work if the torque arm is not hooked up to the transmission at all.

  14. #34
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    No, he means a tunnel mount torque arm will usually add more vibration and noise in general. It has nothing to do with the transmission. A full length torque arm is what you want if your car is a DD or street car.

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Everytime you shift gears it changes the forward momentum of the car and the torque arm wants to go up and down. This causes loud thuds you'll hear on the floor of the car with a tunnel mounted torque arm. In short, yes they are noisier.

  16. #36
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    I see... so if a full length torque arm is what I want for a daily, is that what comes on the car already? I don't mind the noise. What concerns me is noises that are symptoms of something malfunctioning or on the verge of breaking etc. If the noise is supposed to be there, it's fine.

    Incidentally, I think that the clunking may very well have been a lack of proper shift technique, as I have noticed my percentage of seamless shifts is increasing lately, even under WOT acceleration

  17. #37
    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    The stock torque arm is a full length one. However, they mount to the tailshaft of the tranny which causes stress to the tailshaft. It's wise to either get a relocation kit, or an aftermarket crossmember mount one.

    I run a tunnel mount torque arm. I don't experience any clunking though. I would think a tunnel mount torque arm that is clunking would indicate something is loose, or broken.

  18. #38
    Member Eganslp's Avatar
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    Op,
    Im pretty sure I know exactly what you may talking about. Now I'm just curious, do you have a different rear in it at all? My car does!!! It did it before I changed the rear tho, but very little. Now It does it all the time to me. But here some reasons "why." They don't feel like the reasons to me tho if ya get what I mean.

    Currently I'm running the rebuilt t56, spec stage 3+ clutch, moser9" w/4.11s, a stocker, but rebuilt DS and a cheap non-adj. tunnel mount TA I think by jegs or edelbrock (I forget to be honest)

    K, now with that being said here's what I experience;
    • press clutch bring to 1st, (then clunk)
    - I had called moser they said bc of the locker in the rear it has 240* of rotation to do everytime you shift. Hence the banging around. That's why autos are smoother with lockers &recommended/ also drivability is 90/10 & ppl who own them dont mind them as much bc they're auto. So just FYI, if your m6 don't buy the locker. Please heed that warning or you'll regret it trust me. Go with a trac or wave-trac Unless it's a straight track car. (the end part is just my .02$ tho)
    • shifting to everyother gear does the same thing
    • doesn't go into gear in the higher RPM's
    - reason, high rpm lockout it's just a shitty thing our clutch master cylinders do. They suck!!! So either;
    • do the drill mod
    Or
    • buy the mcloed clutch master cylinder= 450$ pretty expensive
    • it like it cant find rev. Or something sometimes
    • Also "this goes for everyone" this is just something that I've noticed. Actually my heavy duty truck mech. noticed. He rebuilds DS's for Riggs & things of that nature. So he had came across something interesting the computer reads my DS to be true, but his eyes are physically seeing something different. There was a 1/2" play or curve in the DS at top and bottom, but the balancer read- balanced?!?!?! K well obviously it's not. Guys you might wanna look into either getting that checked out or buy a new one.
    - some also had motioned the length of the DS to be a problem too.
    • As for the TA since mine is non adj. I can't adj. Pinion angle which I think is suppose to be set at -3* or something (plz if I'm wrong then some1 correct me) so that's another reason
    • lastly adj. Lower control arms make sure that they a squared true to the frame of the car

    I'll post a video later today of my car making the sounds so maybe you guys could help figure out too. I hope this helped if any, but as you see I'm still going through the same problems & I'm thousands into it already.
    The sound of your piss hitting the urinal.......yea it sounds feminine!

  19. #39
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Pinion angles are set to -2 from the factory and for most racing applications will be set to -2. It depends strongly on your particular set-up though.

  20. #40
    Member Eganslp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Pinion angles are set to -2 from the factory and for most racing applications will be set to -2. It depends strongly on your particular set-up though.
    Thank you 35th for the correction!!

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