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braded line from master to slave

This is a discussion on braded line from master to slave within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; I'm in the middle of changing my clutch, master and slave cyl. I did'nt purchase a new braded line and ...

  1. #1
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    White
    1998 WS6 T/A

    braded line from master to slave

    I'm in the middle of changing my clutch, master and slave cyl. I did'nt purchase a new braded line and it seems almost impossible to get the master out from under the break booster it is getting caught up on the wiring-harness and jammed in places that a man with big hands can't seem to get out. My problem is that this line is the only thing holding me back from gettin the trans out. I can't get the pin out on the master cyl end nor can I see how it is being held in place on the slave cyl end??? I bought a new master that is adjustable from jegs and it never came with the braded line, should I just cut it cause I need to go to the dealers and buy a new one anyways and do the drill mod???

  2. #2
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    Black
    1998 Trans Am

    The master will come out....not easily, but the line will come apart also.

    The master and slave are held together with a type of quick disconnect coupling down near the slave cylinder at the bellhousing, there is a plasic sleeve that slides in between the coupling to disengage them....this can be difficult.

    I believe the plastic sleeve is kind of built into the original fitting, but I had better luck after I replaced it with a plastic sleeve I bought at Napa in the "Help" section.

  3. #3
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    White
    1998 WS6 T/A

    Talking

    Is your car a 6-speed and if you have replaced the line is the drill mod worth doing? I Also never got a new pilot bearing which I will pick up @ dealers tommorrow befor installing. Would you recommend anything else new while car is appart. It has everything original and 115k miles.

  4. #4
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    Black
    1998 Trans Am

    Yes, mine's a 6 speed.

    I did the pilot bearing and I would definiyely do the throw out bearing.

    I didn't replace the line, but did do the drill mod...not sure if it helped or not...

  5. #5
    Junior Member bigdaddy001's Avatar
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    2000 Z28

    It is recommended that you do the drill mod, especially if you did the Mcleod adjstustable clutch master cylinder. I have a 6 speed and believe it made the difference. I couldn't shift at WOT until I did.:

  6. #6
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    black
    1998

    It will come out with out cutting the line! If I were you I would call jegs and see if you can't get a hold of a line for free!

  7. #7
    Member cuzimoto's Avatar
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    99 Formula

    To remove the line from the slave use two screw drivers and push on both sides of the plastic ring straight in towards the slave, the ring will stay in on its own releasing the line, you can feel it, then just pull the line out. Drill mod for sure is worth it.

  8. #8
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    which end of line do you drill??

  9. #9
    Member cuzimoto's Avatar
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    The end of the line that goes into the master (not slave)has a restriction in size. I do forget what size the drill bit i used was. I do remember that i placed the line in a vice to hold it straight, dont whant to drill through the side of the line. I think i drilled two or three times stepping up in sizes. Before installing the line be sure to flush it with alcohol or mineral spirits or brakecleen so as not to get metal shavings in slave.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Hurley711's Avatar
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    414 RWHP 395 RWTQ
    00 Black Ram Air Trans Am

    hmm... braided....master....slave all in the same title, I thought this was another racist Bigrus thread........sorry to interupt

  11. #11
    Junior Member bigdaddy001's Avatar
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    2000 Z28

    You drill the end of the line going to the master cylinder. I think the drill size was 1/8 inch. Go to install university and look under drill mod and it will tell you. I also went with the Mcleod Adjustable Master Cylinder and I don't regret doing any of this at all. I would go with a bronze pilot bearing as well, the factory one has roller bearings that will fail, and there's no performance gain with them. You can pickup one for 6 or 7 dollars. I would also get a new slave cylinder. You already know how hard it is to get to, so eliminate that hassle now. I went with Spec aluminum flywheel and stage 3 clutch. It may be more than you need right now, but it will already be in place should you upgrade your engine. It is only slightly more pressure than stock, not enough to concern anyone. I'm putting 445 ft/lbs to the rear wheels with no slippage of the clutch. Like one of the other replies said, when you do the drill mod, be sure to clean the line out good.

  12. #12
    A friggin fish! LOL buswwa's Avatar
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    Pewter
    2000 Z28

    Yes, do the drill mod. See my post about racing a mk3 supra in the kill section to find out why.

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