bleeding t56 clutch
This is a discussion on bleeding t56 clutch within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; I just checked ebay, and third item was exactly what you need for 32.50 w 8 shipping. And you can ...
01-16-2011, 07:22 AM #21
I just checked ebay, and third item was exactly what you need for 32.50 w 8 shipping. And you can use it to flush your clutch fluid every few months.
01-16-2011, 07:23 AM #22
yeah and i dont... well does that make scents, about that line letting it run then it starts to drip?
01-16-2011, 07:30 AM #23
well, I'm gonna bow out of this one as I have no idea how to bleed it manually. Unless you live close to PHX, I can't help. Good luck bud.
01-16-2011, 07:44 AM #24
I guess you've figured out how to remove the line and push in the valve to let it drain.
Just a little at a time and you'll have to replenish the tiny reservoir. It doesn't hold much and it will empty fast.
Doing this a couple times should be enough. If you let the reservoir get too low, it will just reintroduce more air into the system.
After that just plug the line back in. From there pump the pedal a few times, hold the pedal down, crack the bleeder for a second, close it back up, then release the pedal. Check fluid level.
After 3-4 times of this it should be ready to go.
01-16-2011, 08:00 AM #25
well thats just it, it doesnt empty the resivor very fast like i said it comes out it a stream then after like 10 seconds it starts dripping instead of running out. if i let it sit for a bit then its like it builds pressure back up then it streams out then drips. it dont make scents.. and u think once i get that pluged back in the pedal should have some pressure?
01-16-2011, 08:08 AM #26
I've always had some pedal after this procedure, and the pedal would at least return halfway. From there I just pumped and bled a few times.
Was there a reason the system was cracked open? I can't go back and look at your first post while I'm in here typing. I can't remember what started all this or if you had to replace anything,,,,old timers disease
01-16-2011, 08:12 AM #27
Okay, now that I posted I went back and looked.
Appears you dropped the tranny to replace only the slave cylinder??
In which case the line trick I mentioned wouldn't be necessary since the rest of the system from the line on back wasn't disturbed.
01-16-2011, 08:16 AM #28
lol i hear ya.. it was cause i put a new slave in and the first time i did the clutch the pedal never felt right thats y i got a new slave
01-16-2011, 08:44 AM #29
so what do i do to get pressure to the pedal
01-16-2011, 08:49 AM #30
You are going to have to pump the pedal, pull it back up with your foot, and do that a few times, hold it down, crack the bleeder and then close it.
That slave being new is bone dry. You could also try cracking the bleeder open and letting it sit to gravity bleed and watch the reservoir, the level should drop as it fills the slave before it even begins to drip out the bleeder.
In a situation like this, it would be easier with a mity vac. Where are you located?
01-16-2011, 08:55 AM #31
ok im in wisconsin.. so after i pump it a few times hold it and crack the bleeder then let it run while holding the pedal?
01-16-2011, 12:11 PM #32
got it! thanks man really thank you for your time
01-16-2011, 12:15 PM #33
Yep. Once you crack the bleeder open, only about a second or so and you'll want to close it again before you let the pedal back up.
01-17-2011, 05:55 AM #34
op how are things going?
What was the reason you replaced the slave? Didn't you say the pedal didn't feel right? When my pedal wouldn't return it was my master not my slave. Don't know if this is your prob or you still have air
01-17-2011, 08:41 AM #35
idk it still feels soft like it did before i changed it maybe a lil bit better i think its all bleed out
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