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bleeding t56 clutch

This is a discussion on bleeding t56 clutch within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; so i put a new slave in my t.a. got it all back in there i figured i would have ...

  1. #1
    Member mikey gavin's Avatar
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    bright red
    1998 formula trans am m6,

    bleeding t56 clutch

    so i put a new slave in my t.a. got it all back in there i figured i would have to bleed the hydraulics but i pushed the pedal anyway and it popped right to the floor and only came back about a inch. u have to pull it back to get it to pop back up just like it did going down i tried bleeding it with a friend in the car to push the clutch in and out while i opened the bleeder we did it about 20 time and made no difference idk what to do can any one help me to find an easy way to get her done?

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    Member turyg ls1's Avatar
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    2002 camaro ss slp #2582

    Did u add brake fluid...?

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
    2001 Silverado Z71

    There's a sticky for that
    How to bleed a clutch

  4. #4
    Member mikey gavin's Avatar
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    yeah i kept it full the whlole time

  5. #5
    Member mikey gavin's Avatar
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    yeah i read all that but i have no mity vac and i have to have it done and out of there today

  6. #6
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    I have the mity vac, but I still prefer to bleed the clutch differently.

    I first remove the clutch hydraulic line from the trans. It doesn't leak fluid unless it's depressed with a small screw driver.

    I'll depress it and let it gravity drip into a container. Replenish the reservoir as necessary. It only takes a couple of quick attempts. This will guarantee all of the air is removed from this half of the system (from the line on up through the cars master cylinder)

    Simply plug the line back in. From here the only air left in the system would be the slave inside the bell housing, which will be a very small amount of air. All you have to do at this point is pump the clutch a few times and crack the bleeder for a second. You can also use your mity vac at this point and keep this operation to one person.

    From all the times I've done this it only takes a couple of times and you're done. Very simple, takes about 5 minutes.

    It's difficult to bleed the system from the start without removing that line as I described above. Trying to pump the pedal will result in what you are experiencing with a stuck pedal on the floor.
    My method eliminates that hassle, and you'll have some pedal effort right away just from the line trick I mentioned, makes it very easy to pump and remove the remaining air from the slave at that point.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 01-14-2011 at 12:17 PM.

  7. #7
    Member mikey gavin's Avatar
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    when u say to depress it do u mean the thing in the slave or in the line it self

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    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Go buy a mityvac and have it done in 30 seconds.

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    Member blackcar's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro SS
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikey gavin View Post
    when u say to depress it do u mean the thing in the slave or in the line it self
    He is talking about the line from the master. It has a stopper similar to an air valve in a tire. You have to press and hold it in with a small screw driver to let the fluid come out.

  10. #10
    Member mikey gavin's Avatar
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    ok cool dont sound bad

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackcar View Post
    He is talking about the line from the master. It has a stopper similar to an air valve in a tire. You have to press and hold it in with a small screw driver to let the fluid come out.
    Yep, piece of cake. Even if you have a mity vac, I'd still recommend this procedure first, it removes most of the air before you even start the bleeding process.

    After that it's just a few pumps of the pedal and crack the bleeder if you have a helper. Twice doing that should be enough, and you don't even get the mity vac dirty

  12. #12
    Member mikey gavin's Avatar
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    idk if i get what u mean about bleeding the line. the fluid runs out and then it starts to drip but once i close it and open itback up it has a stream again if i keep holding it open it starts to drip again.. so what i did was open it a few times just long enough so it wouldnt drip and closed it then i put the line back in had my friend go to pump it and i bleed it, it was the same thing as last time the pedal stuck to the floor

  13. #13
    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    Are you filling the right reservoir? I have a seperate reservoir for the clutch fluid. It's smaller and right next to/behind the master.

  14. #14
    Member mikey gavin's Avatar
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    yes sr.

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    I never tried it without the mity vac. You can't loan it out from a supply store like Napa or whatever? It is so easy it should be a crime. You gotta have one. I just flushed and bled my brakes a few weeks ago. Peice of cake.

  16. #16
    Member mikey gavin's Avatar
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    idk if they will i would see but theyre closed

  17. #17
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    I've never known any of the stores to loan them out. They cost about ~$50 give or take if my memory serves.
    I do like to use it for brakes since there is alot of bleeding to do in that respect.

  18. #18
    Member mikey gavin's Avatar
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    thats just it 50 is a lot for that

  19. #19
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikey gavin View Post
    thats just it 50 is a lot for that
    Yes it is, and for as simple as it is to bleed the clutch it's not worth the investment.

    Now if you owned several cars and bled brakes or flushed brake systems a few times a year then it's worthwhile to have the kit.

    I have seen them on sale from time to time if you keep an eye out.

  20. #20
    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    50$,? the loaner macpherson strut tool from NAPA is ~100.

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