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Best clutch

This is a discussion on Best clutch within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; This is probably going to result in an argument, but: for a mostly-stock LS1 in a 2500lb car (Mazda Miata), ...

  1. #1
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    Best clutch

    This is probably going to result in an argument, but: for a mostly-stock LS1 in a 2500lb car (Mazda Miata), what's a good clutch? It's being replaced since the engine/trans will be out of the car anyway, even if the donor car has a good clutch. The car will be a daily driver, so no race clutches. Thanks.

  2. #2
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    LS7 clutch, no question about it. Its great for anything with 400WHP or less, and your extremely light weight makes it an even better choice.

    Its very affordable (around $450 for clutch/flywheel kit), it has excellent street manners, and its very durable since its an OEM GM clutch.

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Mcleod kevlar. Why replace your clutch with a stock GM clutch (LS7)? Leaves rubber on the road in 4th, no chatter.

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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by INMY01TA View Post
    Mcleod kevlar. Why replace your clutch with a stock GM clutch (LS7)? Leaves rubber on the road in 4th, no chatter.
    Because GM OEM clutches have been tested to over 100,000 miles of service, aftermarket clutches aren't.

    He said he wants something for a daily. With the low weight of his car and only bolt ons, LS7 is the perfect match for it.

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    Because GM OEM clutches have been tested to over 100,000 miles of service, aftermarket clutches aren't.

    He said he wants something for a daily. With the low weight of his car and only bolt ons, LS7 is the perfect match for it.
    I daily drove mine fine. Whole point of modding is to upgrade.

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    How's the pedal pressure and the price on the McLeod Kevlar? Will it work with a stock flywheel?

    I don't want a super-strong disc. I want the clutch to be the weakest link in the drivetrain, because otherwise, it will probably be the rear axleshafts or the differential.

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jarlaxle View Post
    How's the pedal pressure and the price on the McLeod Kevlar? Will it work with a stock flywheel?

    I don't want a super-strong disc. I want the clutch to be the weakest link in the drivetrain, because otherwise, it will probably be the rear axleshafts or the differential.
    Pedal on mine is stiff/heavy. Not sure on the price these days but it comes with a new flywheel.

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    Junior Member rabiddog's Avatar
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    Your not going to break anything if you are using the car as a DD. Now if you are dumping the clutch at 4000rpm and have some tires that will stick then you might break something. For a solid clutch for your bolt on car I would go w/ the LS7. Its strong enough to beat on it and mine is even softer to push than the stock clutch was.

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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by INMY01TA View Post
    I daily drove mine fine. Whole point of modding is to upgrade.
    LS7 clutch > LS1 clutch

    I'd say thats an upgrade

    If he's just bolt ons, LS7 is great. Especially with his low weight. I'm not discrediting the McCleod as a good performance clutch, I just think its overkill for a bolt on LS1 with a 2500lb curb weight when an LS7 will hold up great.

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    LS7 clutch > LS1 clutch

    I'd say thats an upgrade

    If he's just bolt ons, LS7 is great. Especially with his low weight. I'm not discrediting the McCleod as a good performance clutch, I just think its overkill for a bolt on LS1 with a 2500lb curb weight when an LS7 will hold up great.
    You maybe right for a Miata, but for any bolt on f bod I'd look past the LS7. It's still a GM stock clutch. How many 6,500+rpm dumps on slicks do you think it'd take? I've got almost 40,000 street miles on mine and it takes em in stride.

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    No super-heavy clutches...not even mentioning how tiring they get, the hydraulics on the conversion won't hold up.

    Again: I don't want the clutch to be super-strong. I want it to be the weakest link in the drivetrain...because if it isn't, the axleshafts or rear differential will be. Sounds like the LS7 clutch is the way to go. Will IT work with a stock LS1 flywheel?

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jarlaxle View Post
    No super-heavy clutches...not even mentioning how tiring they get, the hydraulics on the conversion won't hold up.

    Again: I don't want the clutch to be super-strong. I want it to be the weakest link in the drivetrain...because if it isn't, the axleshafts or rear differential will be. Sounds like the LS7 clutch is the way to go. Will IT work with a stock LS1 flywheel?
    Seems silly to me. Buy a new clutch (LS7) Then later on lets say you get new rear (9inch/12 bolt) Then you got a clutch that'll won't hold up to track abuse. I say do things right the 1st time but good luck whichever you go with.

  13. #13
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jarlaxle View Post
    No super-heavy clutches...not even mentioning how tiring they get, the hydraulics on the conversion won't hold up.

    Again: I don't want the clutch to be super-strong. I want it to be the weakest link in the drivetrain...because if it isn't, the axleshafts or rear differential will be. Sounds like the LS7 clutch is the way to go. Will IT work with a stock LS1 flywheel?
    You will need an LS2 flywheel to mate up with the LS7 clutch. However, if you get the kit (its around $450) you get the whole setup together with the LS7 clutch and LS2 flywheel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    You will need an LS2 flywheel to mate up with the LS7 clutch. However, if you get the kit (its around $450) you get the whole setup together with the LS7 clutch and LS2 flywheel.
    You can get the the LS7 clutch and aluminum flywheel kit for around $550.

    PM sent.
    Last edited by Blue28; 11-23-2009 at 06:59 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by INMY01TA View Post
    Seems silly to me. Buy a new clutch (LS7) Then later on lets say you get new rear (9inch/12 bolt) Then you got a clutch that'll won't hold up to track abuse. I say do things right the 1st time but good luck whichever you go with.
    The Miata has IRS, no 9" here, ever. Short of turning it into a trailered drag car with a full back-half job (which will never happen), the axleshafts and/or centersection will ALWAYS be the weak point.

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jarlaxle View Post
    The Miata has IRS, no 9" here, ever. Short of turning it into a trailered drag car with a full back-half job (which will never happen), the axleshafts and/or centersection will ALWAYS be the weak point.
    ok ya, I keep forgetting we're talking about a Miata.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    You will need an LS2 flywheel to mate up with the LS7 clutch. However, if you get the kit (its around $450) you get the whole setup together with the LS7 clutch and LS2 flywheel.
    i thought it was the ls3 flywheel? +1 on the ls7 clutch I just put one in mine and I love it no noises,chatter,and grabs awesome with a good pedal

  18. #18
    Junior Member rabiddog's Avatar
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    FYI

    The whole have to have lS2 flywheel thing is crap. Just get a lS7 clutch flywheel pp kit. The LS2 and LS7 flywheels are the same.

  19. #19
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rabiddog View Post
    FYI

    The whole have to have lS2 flywheel thing is crap. Just get a lS7 clutch flywheel pp kit. The LS2 and LS7 flywheels are the same.
    The LS7 clutch "kit" comes with an LS2 flywheel. So even if they are identical it doesn't really matter, bottom line is you need a new flywheel either way.

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