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bad night

This is a discussion on bad night within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; First I have an 01 Z28 with a ram powergrip hd clutch and tick mastercylinder. Tonight I did a burnout. ...

  1. #1
    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    bad night

    First I have an 01 Z28 with a ram powergrip hd clutch and tick mastercylinder. Tonight I did a burnout. I put it in 2nd revved up and dumped the clutch. no slipping just a nice patch of rubber and when to shift to third and the shifter wouldn't come out of gear. I shoved up to neutral and it wouldn't go back into gear. I have to turn the engine off to put in gear and start the engine to get moving. I can shift gears but it is hard to get into gear. My first thought is the slave cylinder but I would like to know what your thoughts are. Needless to say this was not the issue I needed tonight.

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    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    second thought and I really hope I am just stressing this but what are the chances the pressure plate failed?

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    How does the pedal feel?

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    It's the "slider keys" for the syncros in the trans. Sorry to tell you but you are looking at a T-56 rebuild. This is a common weak link in this units. When Tremic built this transmissions they used stamped steel slider keys in the normal models good for 350hp or so but in the Corvettes and Vipers they upgrades several parts including solid billet slider keys. Find yourself a good GM trans rebuilder and have him use a stage II or III kit for the rebuild. You are looking at about 2500.00 total with R&R. I did mine with 29k miles on it so it does happen any time. Sorry for the bad news. 2500 dollars to replace 8 dollars worth of parts.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

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    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    the pedal feels weak like it doesn't fully disengage the clutch. I didn't hear anything pop or anything that I remember. I hope that the sliders are not the issue as I don't have that money right now. anyway to tell for sure on the sliders?

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    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    one other thing. When I start the engine with clutch pushed in and in gear the car begins to move so the clutch is not disengaging fully or at all

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    I would bleed the clutch before tearing out the transmission. See if that restores your pedal and shifting.

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    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    ok I will try that. thanks

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    What color is your clutch fluid ?

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    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    No thread can fix it; take it apart and see what's wrong. It' more than likely in the hydraulics and clutch setup than in the trans based on the descriptions of pedal feel. Having internal trans issues will not change the feel of the clutch pedal generally speaking.

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    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    fluid is black. I am checking now for a shop to pull trans or going and buying all the stuff I need to do it myself. Which ever is cheaper. What sucks is I just moved out to OK and the garage is still full of boxes and stuff we haven't found a place for yet. Anyone know of a good shop in the OKC or surrounding area for our cars?

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    Junior Member 02 red hawk's Avatar
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    which one?
    which one?

    Awhile back, I'm sitting at a red light in my 02 ws6, 6m. To my surprise, my car starts rolling forward. Car's in first gear, so I thought I let the clutch pedal ease up. Apply the brake pedal & floor the clutch pedal. As soon as I lifted off the brakes, the car starts rolling again. WTF is going on? Turns out it was clutch slave cylinder. Needless to say, it's all better now

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by werewolf View Post
    fluid is black. I am checking now for a shop to pull trans or going and buying all the stuff I need to do it myself. Which ever is cheaper. What sucks is I just moved out to OK and the garage is still full of boxes and stuff we haven't found a place for yet. Anyone know of a good shop in the OKC or surrounding area for our cars?
    That could be the issue. Flush you fluid every 10k

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    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002ssslp View Post
    That could be the issue. ..
    yep!

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    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    ok finally got time to bleed the clutch. The fluid is now clean and the pedal feels slightly firmer but the clutch will still not disengage. The shifter moves freely with engine off and will go into gears but start the engine and it will not go into gear. What other parts could be stopping the clutch from disengaging? This is a RAM Powergrip HD that was installed in May 2012. Thanks for any advice.

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    Sounds like the slave cylinder may be shot.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Is it leaking any fluid from the slave cylinder? Was the level full when you went to go change it?

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    The level was full, just black. I called Ram and their tech line said to check that nothing was warped in the clutch. Could the slave bypass internally and not bleed down or pump up?

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    The internal seals can go bad - especially if contaminated with oil. However, this would generally result in a "no pedal" feel. Had that happen on a Ford Ranger -- made it 35 miles, through the city, all the way home stuck in third gear. Quite a ride.

  20. #20
    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    well I pick the car up from the shop tomorrow. Seems when I did that burnout the clutch was slipping and basically welded itself to the flywheel. hopefully I don't do anything like that again. Thanks for all the advice and help.

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