02 WS6 "Clutch Engagement" problems

**Whamhammer** · 03-22-2011, 10:30 AM

Hey all,

I have a 2002 WS6, M6 with factory Hurst shifter. For three-or-so years, I've had problems with varying clutch pedal travel before it feels like it engages, especially worse as the temperature drops. In that time, the internals on the tranny were replaced twice under extended warranty(the last time they removed my skip shift eliminator harness), a clutch assembly, master and slave cylinder replaced under my own dime ( clutch and cylinders OE). Last month it was very cold and the problem got worse so I had my local Buick (ex Pontiac) dealer look at it, which they couldn't "duplicate" the problem. I had had them change the clutch fluid (they also changed the trans fluid by mistake) and it didn't really do much for it.

At its worst, its almost totally to the floor before it engages, sometimes it just won't let me "lazily" upshift. When the temps are good and it feels like being nice to me it will have a firm pedal. Anyone have any ideas on whats wrong with it? I can't think of too many more items that are involved with the drivetrain on this.

**Cutlass** · 03-22-2011, 06:47 PM

Mine did that before I did the drill mod. Now its very consistent.

**robs98mysticZ** · 03-22-2011, 07:19 PM

mine had done that a few times until i lost my travel completely turned out the slave cylinder was shot maybe the one you received was faulty i dont know how often that would happen but yea... monitor your clutch fluid reservoir... mine started by dropping just a hair i.e 1/8" low then gradually got worse but it would have engagement issues primarily when it was colder out hope you figure it out

**LittleRedRacer** · 03-22-2011, 07:22 PM

Sounds like it might be the slave cylinder or master cylinder. When my slave cylinder was bad my clutch pedal would stick to the floor. I would have to lift it up with my toes and repeat the process a few times before it would return to normal. I swapped all the hydraulics out and did the drill mod when I installed my Z06 clutch and haven't had a problem since.

**Whamhammer** · 03-23-2011, 06:58 AM

Originally Posted by Cutlass

Mine did that before I did the drill mod. Now its very consistent.

What do you mean by "drill mod' "??

**Whamhammer** · 03-23-2011, 07:03 AM

Originally Posted by robs98mysticZ

mine had done that a few times until i lost my travel completely turned out the slave cylinder was shot maybe the one you received was faulty i dont know how often that would happen but yea... monitor your clutch fluid reservoir... mine started by dropping just a hair i.e 1/8" low then gradually got worse but it would have engagement issues primarily when it was colder out hope you figure it out

The clutch fluid level has been good the whole time. If the cylinders were faulty, wouldn't it be soft all the time???

**robs98mysticZ** · 03-23-2011, 05:14 PM

you would think but mine acted up here and there so i dont know it did it till the slave cylinder went out completely

**Cutlass** · 03-23-2011, 06:43 PM

Originally Posted by Whamhammer

What do you mean by "drill mod' "??

The braided steel hydraulic line from the master to the slave has a built in restrictor. The restriction was put there by GM to slow the clutch action and reduce warranty claims.
That restriction seems to also caused erratic, unpredictable clutch engagement (at least it did for me).
So the fix it to drill out the restriction. Here's a link. The drill mod procedure starts at step number 15...

**Whamhammer** · 03-24-2011, 11:43 AM

Originally Posted by Cutlass

The braided steel hydraulic line from the master to the slave has a built in restrictor. The restriction was put there by GM to slow the clutch action and reduce warranty claims.
That restriction seems to also caused erratic, unpredictable clutch engagement (at least it did for me).
So the fix it to drill out the restriction. Here's a link. The drill mod procedure starts at step number 15...

I appreciate forwading the link. I will add it to my fav's. I have a silly question. Is there any aftermarket replacements for this line that dont have this restriction? Its just in the fitting right? I would think that that wouldnt be too hard.

**Whamhammer** · 03-28-2011, 07:29 AM

Another question;

Being that this line is possibly older than eight years of age. Would it be more advisable to buy a new line and do the drill mod, or do they tend to have a long life expectancy? Also would I be better off doing it with a factory peice or aftermarket (in both cost and quality)?

**Cutlass** · 03-28-2011, 05:38 PM

That old line should be fine.
IMHO, there are 2 good choices here. Use the Tick master cylinder or use the GM master cylinder with the drill mod done to the line.
Others have had good luck with the Ram master cylinders, I believe...so thats a third choice.