Why a stall?
This is a discussion on Why a stall? within the Automatic Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; I have a question. Everyone says I need a stall. I am an old school hot rodder and we only ...
12-31-2013, 04:33 PM #1
- Join Date
- Dec 2013
Why a stall?
I have a question. Everyone says I need a stall. I am an old school hot rodder and we only used stalls for lagging problems on the initial launch. This ws6 I have has no lag at all in fact it is hard to get it to stop melting the tires when you launch it hard. So why would I want to put in a stall? I have only had it about 2 weeks and I have had several cars jump me at red lights including a new model 5.0 stang with a manual and I eat them up. This thing is all stock except for flomaster exhaust and it's a powerhouse . If someone knows something I don't know please tell me..
01-01-2014, 12:05 PM #2
Well, a stall, or torque converter, brings the RPM up instantly so you get more power and are in the power band quicker. Think of a stick car like I have. When I roll race someone, I need to make sure I have the car in the right gear to be able to do this. My power band starts at say 3500RPM. If I was to roll race someone and have the car in wrong gear and stomped on it, the RPM's would climb from say 2,000RPM until it hit 3,500RPM where the car starts to make more power. So for that split second the car is climbing up on RPM, I am wasting valuable time to make power to get going. A stall in an auto does this for you, instantly.
The reason a stall converter works is simple; an engine at 1,200 RPM is only making about 80 or so horsepower (on average), but at 2,500 RPM it could be making 150 to 200HP, and obviously trying to get a car moving using 150-200HP is going to be much easier than one trying to launch at 80HP or so. Most performance engines don't make power until 3,000 or so RPM, hence why when you have a higher horsepower engine, you need a higher stall speed so the engine is closer to it's "power band" when taking-off from the line.
Generally speaking, people who install a 3200-3600 stall in their auto reduce their 1/4 mile time by 0.5 seconds or more. If you think the car hauls ass now with a stock converter, you will really think it hauls ass with a larger one.
The stall in your car, if stock, is 1800RPM. Some aftermarket stalls recommended are: Yank, Vigilante, and FTI. There is also Circle D, but have read some people having issues with theirs from that mfg.
01-02-2014, 02:52 AM #3
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Mansfield, PA
Black & Blue
- '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban
Swapped to a 3,200 stall torque converter in our car and my track times dropped by 0.4 seconds. As Jon stated, it puts the engine into the sweet part of the torque curve. Combine this with appropriate suspension, tire and transmission mods and you'll be very happy with the changes. BTW: I should have went with a 3,600...
01-02-2014, 03:47 AM #4
LS engines really need a nice converter, they don't start making decent power until above 3,000 rpm. Before that they are a little soggy. A loose converter eliminates that.
Like the guys said, just a converter change alone will knock 1/2 second off your 1/4 mile times, it did the same for me. It's well documented as the best bang for your buck in an automatic LS car. Not too many other changes you can do for so cheap that makes this much difference.
If you think it's a tire spinner now, wait till you get a converter in there and let that engine work closer to it's torque peak
01-02-2014, 07:18 AM #5
another thing is shift extension.....ever notice on the shift how the rpm's drop way down and then the car starts building power again? With the higher stall it won't do that.....after the shift the rpm's jump straight back up into the power band.
01-04-2014, 03:16 PM #6
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
- Land O Thunder
- 1966 Skylark
01-06-2014, 05:19 PM #7
01-06-2014, 07:17 PM #8
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