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What size stall should I get......

This is a discussion on What size stall should I get...... within the Automatic Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; Just wanted to know what you guys suggest, for a stall size for me. I talked to my mech and ...

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    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    What size stall should I get......

    Just wanted to know what you guys suggest, for a stall size for me. I talked to my mech and he suggest this stall: PRO THRUSTER 4000 4L60E/4L65E LS1
    245mm, Stall speed 4000 and 4400, Posi Lock-Up Clutch w/Kevlar Linings, lightweight billet cover, 2.2 STR , but I was thinking of just going with the SS3600 what do you guys suggest? I rarely drive the car except for weekends or maybe out of town on occasion, and want something that is still comfortable to drive......let me know what you guys suggest and what will work well with my modifications in my signature~Chris
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    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clg82 View Post
    Just wanted to know what you guys suggest, for a stall size for me. I talked to my mech and he suggest this stall: PRO THRUSTER 4000 4L60E/4L65E LS1
    245mm, Stall speed 4000 and 4400, Posi Lock-Up Clutch w/Kevlar Linings, lightweight billet cover, 2.2 STR , but I was thinking of just going with the SS3600 what do you guys suggest? I rarely drive the car except for weekends or maybe out of town on occasion, and want something that is still comfortable to drive......let me know what you guys suggest and what will work well with my modifications in my signature~Chris
    Do you have h/c or plan to soon?

    The one the mechanic suggested is high for just a stock motor for street use. I think you would be better off going with a 3600 or even a 3400 with your current mods.

    I would call up yank/hughes/tci/etc... tell them your plans for your car and they will help you pick out the proper stall for your application.

    I have not picked out a stall yet due to I haven't even decieded on the h/c setup I want.

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    yank ss 3600...end of thread

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    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02Sweet View Post
    Do you have h/c or plan to soon?

    The one the mechanic suggested is high for just a stock motor for street use. I think you would be better off going with a 3600 or even a 3400 with your current mods.

    I would call up yank/hughes/tci/etc... tell them your plans for your car and they will help you pick out the proper stall for your application.

    I have not picked out a stall yet due to I haven't even decieded on the h/c setup I want.
    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    yank ss 3600...end of thread
    I think i will be going with the 3600 thanks for the input you guys, i have no plans on a h/c swap anytime soon......thanks for the help~anyone with other suggestions please chime in........~Chris

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    3600 for sure if you have no plans to cam the car and want to maintain good street manners with the car. If you ever do plan to cam the car, pairing up the cam and stall are best for optimal performance.
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    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    3600 for sure if you have no plans to cam the car and want to maintain good street manners with the car. If you ever do plan to cam the car, pairing up the cam and stall are best for optimal performance.
    thanks for the advice, i'm sure either way I go I will notice a huge difference anyways............

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    Senior Member Z28Thunder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clg82 View Post
    thanks for the advice, i'm sure either way I go I will notice a huge difference anyways............
    Depends on your plans. I guess the way I look at a stall is more about STR. A stall with a 2.5 str will net you around a 1.7/1.8 60'. A 2.7 will get you a 1.5,1.4 and really pushing it 1.3 60'. If your talking track racing. Not street or roll racing its all in the 60'. Drop you 60 and watch your ET's drop. Your running 3.73's which would really like a 4000 stall. But it would really be better if you had a cam at least. Cam,headers,4000 stall and 3.73's here. 1.5 60's with a 1/4 mile time of 11.52 at 119/120 ish.
    Last edited by Z28Thunder; 04-02-2009 at 08:43 PM.

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    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z28Thunder View Post
    Depends on your plans. I guess the way I look at a stall is more about STR. A stall with a 2.5 str will net you around a 1.7/1.8 60'. A 2.7 will get you a 1.5,1.4 and really pushing it 1.3 60'. If your talking track racing. Not street or roll racing its all in the 60'. Drop you 60 and watch your ET's drop. Your running 3.73's which would really like a 4000 stall. But it would really be better if you had a cam at least. Cam,headers,4000 stall and 3.73's here. 1.5 60's with a 1/4 mile time of 11.52 at 119/120 ish.
    So even if i go with the 3600 stall i won't notice a difference? I barely ever go to the track and do mostly cruising around and an occasional ricer race........

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    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    3600 for sure if you have no plans to cam the car and want to maintain good street manners with the car. If you ever do plan to cam the car, pairing up the cam and stall are best for optimal performance.
    Y2K I noticed you had a 3800 stall........how do you like that and where did you get it i noticed yank didn't have one .........

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clg82 View Post
    So even if i go with the 3600 stall i won't notice a difference? I barely ever go to the track and do mostly cruising around and an occasional ricer race........
    you will notice a difference

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    With a higher STR, your low-end be stronger. You will lose a bit high up.

    Don't forget tires, because you won't be able to hook.
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    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert View Post
    With a higher STR, your low-end be stronger. You will lose a bit high up.

    Don't forget tires, because you won't be able to hook.
    STR???????? What's that lol

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    Blown, Stroked, & Sprayed

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    From http://www.converter.com

    THE TRUTH ABOUT STALL TORQUE RATIO

    STR has been talked and argued about for many years. The following information is what we at Precision Industries have found by doing our own testing to be helpful for you to try to understand this subject. Our competitors must have a crystal ball to figure the STR of their torque converters. There are a couple of companies in the performance torque converter business that do have the capability to test STR, MOST DO NOT! Precision Industries happens to be one that does have. Our test dyno has the capability to test from 200 ft. lbs. of torque up to 900 ft. lbs. of torque. The other companies use dynamometers that vary from 100 ft. lb. of torque to approximately 300 ft. lb. of torque. There is an old GM printed sheet that has floated around our industry for about 10 years showing the STR of stock GM torque converters that were built back then. Our competitors either use this sheet or are guessing because they have no way of knowing what the STR really is. They also advertise STR’s of 2.7, 2.9, 3.0, 3.2, etc. this is pure BS. All torque converter companies use the impellers, turbines and stators that come in the factory torque converters. In our tests we have never seen an STR over 2.55. Precision Industries do have torque converters with STR over 2.55 but these units have specially machined stators in them and are not worth the high cost for a street/strip application. If our competitors try to tell you differently just ask them to show you a picture of their test machine, not just a printout. The formula for STR is EXACT OUTPUT TORQUE ÷ EXACT INPUT TORQUE = STR. This requires a known power source and a data recovery system. STR is just what the name implies. The ratio of torque multiplication at stall. As soon as the turbine rotates (car moves) the ratio starts dropping rapidly until enough RPM has been reached for the ratio to drop to 1:1. The RPM that the ratio reaches 1:1 varies depending on other factors in and out of the torque converter such as impeller exit angle, stator design, impeller to turbine clearance, input torque (engine), etc. A fact that most everyone overlooks is that a torque converter does not make torque! It takes the torque the engine produces and multiplies it for a very short period of time. This is why some cars perform better than others with the same torque converter.

    Some car enthusiasts put all kinds of money in the engine, transmission, torque converter, NOS, rear end gears, etc. then want to cripple the torque converter by lowering the STR to try and prevent wheel spin on take off. This is as foolish as pulling off one of the plug wires. Why don’t they finish the project and work on the rear suspension? Trying to tune your car by using STR is probably not very smart seeing how our competitors don’t have a clue about what STR their converters have, after all the stock torque converter you took out of your car has a STR of 1.9-1.94. The best way to get the right torque converter for your car is to buy it from a company that has a large database of previous sales for your kind of car. Then tell the sales person what mods you have made and what mods you intend to make and let that person help with the decision. The key words here are large database. The “Johnny come lately companies” have no large database or experience with what works with these late vehicles. Why try to reinvent the wheel with your hard earned money when there is bound to be someone in our database that has the same mods as you do and their torque converter/engine combination ROCKS! At Precision Industries we found out 10 years ago that STR is not the most important consideration when deciding on a torque converter it is the whole COMBINATION!

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    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert View Post
    good post

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    Quote Originally Posted by clg82 View Post
    Y2K I noticed you had a 3800 stall........how do you like that and where did you get it i noticed yank didn't have one .........
    I love my 3800. Its a TCI, never had a problem with it. You will hear good and bad about every single convertor brand out there though.

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    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    I love my 3800. Its a TCI, never had a problem with it. You will hear good and bad about every single convertor brand out there though.
    PM me a link please..........

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    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    The SS3600 is amazing and you won't be disappointed if you can't make up your mind.

    Someone explained it already but STR is:

    Higher (2.5) = better initial launch and probably tire spin
    Lower (2.0-2.2) = better efficiency and mph in the 1/4 mile

    I think for your use you'd want a lower STR to have a more efficient stall. Call Yank and they will NOT steer you wrong.

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    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by allbaugh_04 View Post
    The SS3600 is amazing and you won't be disappointed if you can't make up your mind.

    Someone explained it already but STR is:

    Higher (2.5) = better initial launch and probably tire spin
    Lower (2.0-2.2) = better efficiency and mph in the 1/4 mile

    I think for your use you'd want a lower STR to have a more efficient stall. Call Yank and they will NOT steer you wrong.
    Thanks buddy that is what i planned on doing since I talked to you, i'm going to go with the SS3600 from yank.......~Chris

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    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    no problem...make sure you let me know what you think whenever it gets put in and tuned

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    Make real real sure Johns00Z28's Avatar
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    The SS3600 is a great street stall but if you plan to go with a cam down the road you might want to go to a 3800 or 4000 now so you don't have to switch it out again.

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