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Tranny Cooler

This is a discussion on Tranny Cooler within the Automatic Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; anybody have pictures of where they installed their tranny cooler?...

  1. #21
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    02 Z28

    anybody have pictures of where they installed their tranny cooler?
    Last edited by vonskeezy28; 12-25-2009 at 02:31 AM.

  2. #22
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    I mounted mine right on the A/C condensor basically, but i need to put some spacers behind it somehow so it gets more air flow.

    I use a B&M and it's rated at 28,800 BTU if i remember right.

  3. #23
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    Citrus(burn't) Orange
    2001 Camaro SS

    i just went on B&M's homepage and looked at there coolers and the only one that is close to 28.800, is the Universal Supercooler 29,200 and also i was wondering what are the measurements of your B&M bc this one is 11"x11"x1-1/2" and since its an inch and a half thick im thinking it might now fit. But i just want to be sure that it will before i buy it. THANKS

  4. #24
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by usafshelley View Post
    i just went on B&M's homepage and looked at there coolers and the only one that is close to 28.800, is the Universal Supercooler 29,200 and also i was wondering what are the measurements of your B&M bc this one is 11"x11"x1-1/2" and since its an inch and a half thick im thinking it might now fit. But i just want to be sure that it will before i buy it. THANKS
    I got the B&M 70272.

    After I did some searching I now know it has 20500 BTU (not 28.8k like i thought) and 28000 GVW. It's about 100 bucks without the fittings I think. It might be overkill, but I wanted the best I could buy. It's 11" x 8" x 1 1/2". There's definitely bigger ones out there, but i thought it was a good choice.

    Try and find it with the "kit" if you can so you don't have to find the fittings you need, or buy them separately, your choice.




  5. #25
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    Citrus(burn't) Orange
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    ok lol well did you buy yours directly from B&M website or through someone else?

  6. #26
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    and also i was wondering, how did you run it on your car....From trans to external cooler to factory cooler back to trans. OR did you go from trans to factory cooler to external cooler back to trans? OR did you just skip the factory cooler all together...and how much extra fluid did you have to add?

  7. #27
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Wait, I got the 70266, same cooler, but the 70272 is polished and costs more it looks like.

    I bought mine on JEGS, dunno where it's cheaper, but if any of the sponsors have this cooler, it'll probably be cheaper through them. Try calling KYSPEED if you want to save a few bucks.

    There's plenty of different transmission cooler brands and perhaps better coolers, i just chose B&M.

  8. #28
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    I bipassed the stock one. I've made a poll on a forum before on which is better, but no one really seems to know. They think they know and swear that "this" is better, but 9/10 they don't have temperature gauges to prove their theory.

    I personally think running through the stock one will not keep it cooler and actually heat up the fluid if your car runs 190 degrees right? It's right next to the the coolant right? Well, that's what I figured. So i just bipassed it all together. I should get a temp gauge, but dunno where I would mount it the thing.

    I ended up cutting the stock lines, and ran rubber line most of the way to the cooler. Seems to work fine so far. IDK if this is the best way, but it's what i did.

  9. #29
    Senior Member bluehawk2000's Avatar
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    How about an m6 I have heard more about putting coolers on auto's than the manuals I have been thinking about doing that cause I noticed when I was home driving it, it would get pretty hot as in feeling heat from the center console area opinions?

  10. #30
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by allbaugh_04 View Post
    I bipassed the stock one. I've made a poll on a forum before on which is better, but no one really seems to know. They think they know and swear that "this" is better, but 9/10 they don't have temperature gauges to prove their theory.

    I personally think running through the stock one will not keep it cooler and actually heat up the fluid if your car runs 190 degrees right? It's right next to the the coolant right? Well, that's what I figured. So i just bipassed it all together. I should get a temp gauge, but dunno where I would mount it the thing.

    I ended up cutting the stock lines, and ran rubber line most of the way to the cooler. Seems to work fine so far. IDK if this is the best way, but it's what i did.

    I've found it better to run in conjunction with the stock radiator cooler. The trick is to let it run through the radiator first, and only tap into the return line so the fluid gets cooled a second time through the new add on cooler and goes directly back to the trans from there.

    Doing it the opposite way actually heats the fluid.

    Don't need a gauge, it's easily verified through HPtuner software. I ran a 3400 converter for quite a while before even installing an external cooler. My trans temps never really got out of shape, considering I ran a 170 thermostat and the engine ran around 180 degrees most of the time, the trans never crept over the 195 mark driving in traffic. On the open road it ran right inline with the engine temps.
    With the additional cooler, the temps dropped about 15 degrees driving around town. I nice improvement, but it never seemed to be in the danger zone before, so I just don't worry about it anymore.

    As far as the lines, you don't need to cut the factory lines. The original return line actually uses a small section of hose next to the frame just off the radiator, and it's very easy to tap in there without screwing up any of the factory metal lines.
    I also bent and flared steel tubing for my cooler to it bolted in with no more rubber line than what the factory already had on the car.
    I never trust the rubber much, especially with high transmission pressures.

    I had a pic of the install around here somehwere, I will have to try and dig that up.

  11. #31
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluehawk2000 View Post
    How about an m6 I have heard more about putting coolers on auto's than the manuals I have been thinking about doing that cause I noticed when I was home driving it, it would get pretty hot as in feeling heat from the center console area opinions?
    No need for a manual tranny. Nascar does it, but requires an external pump etc...but they run 9,000 rpms continuously for 500 miles where durability could become an issue

  12. #32
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    No need for a manual tranny. Nascar does it, but requires an external pump etc...but they run 9,000 rpms continuously for 500 miles where durability could become an issue
    The new Camaro SS's also have transmission coolers on the 6 speed manuals. Since all new GM performance vehicles need to pass a new regimen of durability testing (which includes track time), it was discovered that the TR6060 needed a cooler in order to pass the test and still maintain the proper life expectency of the fluid and transmission.

    Seems like overkill to me (added complexity and weight) but I suppose its a good thing for track cars. I run Mobil 1 Synthetic in my T56, and I don't track my car, so I don't worry about fluid temps too much.

  13. #33
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    I've found it better to run in conjunction with the stock radiator cooler. The trick is to let it run through the radiator first, and only tap into the return line so the fluid gets cooled a second time through the new add on cooler and goes directly back to the trans from there.

    Doing it the opposite way actually heats the fluid.

    Don't need a gauge, it's easily verified through HPtuner software. I ran a 3400 converter for quite a while before even installing an external cooler. My trans temps never really got out of shape, considering I ran a 170 thermostat and the engine ran around 180 degrees most of the time, the trans never crept over the 195 mark driving in traffic. On the open road it ran right inline with the engine temps.
    With the additional cooler, the temps dropped about 15 degrees driving around town. I nice improvement, but it never seemed to be in the danger zone before, so I just don't worry about it anymore.

    As far as the lines, you don't need to cut the factory lines. The original return line actually uses a small section of hose next to the frame just off the radiator, and it's very easy to tap in there without screwing up any of the factory metal lines.
    I also bent and flared steel tubing for my cooler to it bolted in with no more rubber line than what the factory already had on the car.
    I never trust the rubber much, especially with high transmission pressures.

    I had a pic of the install around here somehwere, I will have to try and dig that up.
    The radiator can leak into the trans cooler. At least mine did, another reason why I bypassed it and had to rebuild the transmission.

  14. #34
    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    I just installed the 70274 the 29,600 one its 11x11x1 1/2 i mounted it against the condenser with small spacers it fits just fin and I ran the new lines towards the passenger side. Fits good, not hitting really anything, with that said I can def feel the heat coming off the cooler even with the car idling.

  15. #35
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    The new Camaro SS's also have transmission coolers on the 6 speed manuals. Since all new GM performance vehicles need to pass a new regimen of durability testing (which includes track time), it was discovered that the TR6060 needed a cooler in order to pass the test and still maintain the proper life expectency of the fluid and transmission.

    Seems like overkill to me (added complexity and weight) but I suppose its a good thing for track cars. I run Mobil 1 Synthetic in my T56, and I don't track my car, so I don't worry about fluid temps too much.
    Overkill as far as I'm concerned too. I've ran manuals all my driving life, from a 3 on the tree to muncies, and 6 speeds. Always in dragrace applications though, never road racing. Never needed one then, and don't plan to start now.

  16. #36
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by allbaugh_04 View Post
    The radiator can leak into the trans cooler. At least mine did, another reason why I bypassed it and had to rebuild the transmission.
    That's always a possibility, albiet a very rare occasion. I've only seen that in a handfull of instances in all my years as a mechanic. It's really not enough of an issue to worry about to the extent of bypassing it. And it usually came from poor maintainance.
    The big 3 manufactures have been doing it since the early 60's and still continue to do it. There were quite a few cars throughout the 50's that were automatics and didn't have any type of cooler at all.

    But to bypass it really isn't necessary unless you are just that paranoid.

    The only time I'll consider bypassing the factory cooler in the radiator is when building a custom type car where packaging becomes a concern and a simple remote cooler makes things easier. Otherwise you are missing out on added cooling capacity.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 12-27-2009 at 09:29 AM.

  17. #37
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    pics of 2010 Camaro SS man trans cooler lines and stuff



  18. #38
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Great,,,more shit to go wrong

    Thanks for the pic though, interesting how GM resorted to that on a manual trans.

  19. #39
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Yeah thats probably one of the first things I would remove and plug off

  20. #40
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Yeah thats probably one of the first things I would remove and plug off
    I was thinking the same thing

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