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stall doesnt...stall

This is a discussion on stall doesnt...stall within the Automatic Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; I have a 2500 stall in my car, but the other night i held the brakes, and gave it gas ...

  1. #1
    Member JacobLS1's Avatar
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    stall doesnt...stall

    I have a 2500 stall in my car, but the other night i held the brakes, and gave it gas and the car went all the way to 6k rpms. normally it goes to 2500. The only thing i've done recently was change the rear pads. any ideas?

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    Wow. I have a 3,200 in our car and was pushing through the stock brakes around 2,500 rpm. +1 on checking the fluid level. With the transmission warm (at least a 20 minute drive) park the car on a level surface. Leave the engine running and place the transmission in park. Then pull the shift handle back through each gear, holding it in each one for 3-5 seconds. Then, with the engine still running, put the gear selector back in park and go check your fluid level. Be sure to pull the dipstick and wipe it before dipping it to read the level. Our cars are finicky about having the proper fluid level. Any driveability issues or codes?

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    Member JacobLS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Wow. I have a 3,200 in our car and was pushing through the stock brakes around 2,500 rpm. +1 on checking the fluid level. With the transmission warm (at least a 20 minute drive) park the car on a level surface. Leave the engine running and place the transmission in park. Then pull the shift handle back through each gear, holding it in each one for 3-5 seconds. Then, with the engine still running, put the gear selector back in park and go check your fluid level. Be sure to pull the dipstick and wipe it before dipping it to read the level. Our cars are finicky about having the proper fluid level. Any driveability issues or codes?
    Nothing has changed. I'll check the fluid tomorrow. Thanks ill update tomorrow.
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    Member JacobLS1's Avatar
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    Fluids full, i think ill change it though.
    if I drain the pan, will it drain out of the torque converter as well?

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    Nope. You'll get approximately half the fluid out by dropping the pan, maybe a bit more.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Nope. You'll get approximately half the fluid out by dropping the pan, maybe a bit more.
    By half, you mean half of the fluid in the whole assembly, or the torque converter? what if i were to get it flushed?

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    Half of the fluid in the tranny. You can get it flushed, but sounds like that would not help you with your problem at all. I dont have much experience with autos, but maybe a vacuum line fell off, or got corroded/worn? Or else that stall is gone. Do you have any type of warranty on it? Cause if you do, and bring it back, and they find a vacuum line, or computer problem, they will charge you for their time. Best to eliminate those charges first.

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    Quote Originally Posted by az gt eater View Post
    Half of the fluid in the tranny. You can get it flushed, but sounds like that would not help you with your problem at all. I dont have much experience with autos, but maybe a vacuum line fell off, or got corroded/worn? Or else that stall is gone. Do you have any type of warranty on it? Cause if you do, and bring it back, and they find a vacuum line, or computer problem, they will charge you for their time. Best to eliminate those charges first.
    It was on the car when i bought it. the tranny only has 60k on it. i have a deep pan, so it's gonna cost me a bit($72~), figured i might as well flush it ($100)..

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    Quote Originally Posted by JacobLS1 View Post
    It was on the car when i bought it. the tranny only has 60k on it. i have a deep pan, so it's gonna cost me a bit($72~), figured i might as well flush it ($100)..
    I do not want to "add cold water " on your problem, but I think you are wasteing you time /money ( but I like you would try, any thing is possible)
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    If his clutches are slipping, the fluid will be real dark and have a burnt smell. There may also be debris in the bottom of the pan. At this juncture, his only viable option is to drop the pan and see what is going on in his transmission. Granted, you can "sniff the dipstick" and inspect the color there, but with those miles on it dropping the pan is highly recommended.

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    Member JacobLS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    If his clutches are slipping, the fluid will be real dark and have a burnt smell. There may also be debris in the bottom of the pan. At this juncture, his only viable option is to drop the pan and see what is going on in his transmission. Granted, you can "sniff the dipstick" and inspect the color there, but with those miles on it dropping the pan is highly recommended.
    the fluid is kind of clear. like i said, car drives great, just didn't stall the other night.

    i have the deep pan, so i just realized i need like 10 qts which alone is $75. $16 for the gasket/filter kit. what are some opinions on the 4l60e and flushing?

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    How many miles on the fluid now? I simply drop the pan each year and have never messed with an actual flush.

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    Just under 30k. Figured for the price, i might as well get all new fluid in there.

    You guys have been a great help so far, i appreciate it.

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    Definitely time to change it then, especially with a stall. Are you running an auxilliary transmission cooler?

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Definitely time to change it then, especially with a stall. Are you running an auxilliary transmission cooler?
    just the stock one.

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    You really need to add an auxilliary transmission cooler. A high stall torque converter builds more heat. For comparison purposes, our Suburban and Trans Am are both LS powered vehicles running 4L60E transmissions and auxilliary coolers. The truck weighs 6,200 lbs and the transmission temp generally ranges from 140 to 160 degrees. Pulling our 7,000 pound trailer the temp has never topped 200 and generally ranges from 150 to 180 degrees. In contrast, our Trans Am weighs in at 3,575 and with the 3,200 rpm rated stall, the temps are always about 20 to 25 degrees higher than what our truck runs on a comparable day.

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    Member JacobLS1's Avatar
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    I'll have to look into it, I think tsp sells them for $55-$75..perma-cool and B&M. I do have the B&M deep pan. Heard that helps a little.
    Last edited by JacobLS1; 09-30-2012 at 07:33 PM.

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    I found that a tube and fin style cooler seemed to allow for better air flow versus a stacked plate design due to the fact that are radiators are laid back at an angle. The stacked plate that I was originally going to install seemed like more of an obstruction to the air coming in from underneath the front bumper.

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