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This is a discussion on New member within the Automatic Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; Hello eveyone . My name is Benny and I live in South Texas.I have a 2002 Camaro SS with LS6 ...

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    Red
    2002 Camaro SS

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    Hello eveyone . My name is Benny and I live in South Texas.I have a 2002 Camaro SS with LS6 heads and Compcam,Kooks headers,Vigilante 2800 converter,MagnaFlow Stainless exhaust. Just replaced the trans with level 3 from CPT.Having an issue with not staying in manual 1- will shift to 2nd on WOT. Works fine in drive . I need to check the shift position sensor and need help on how to remove the shift knob.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    There isn't anything called a shift position sensor on these cars so I'm not sure what your referring to. Also, there isn't much to see under the shift knob as far as fixing your problem. All that is there is a shifter with a cable attached to it. As long as you can physically put the shifter into manual one and the cable is adjusted properly, then I believe your problem lies with the transmission or the computer tuning.

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    On the right side of the shifter there is an electrical switch mounted that attaches to the shifter and moves when selecting gears. I had this checked with a scan device and was ok.And thank you for replying as I thought no one was going to help
    Last edited by redss70396; 11-03-2010 at 07:41 PM.

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    Arctic White
    2000 Camaro Z28

    Can you post a picture?

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    Red
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    Will post a picture 11/4 as no camara here right now. Now the car is running so crazy-how can you tell when the computer is bad ?
    I guess the switch is the neutral safety switch as there isn't one on the trans
    Last edited by redss70396; 11-03-2010 at 08:24 PM.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Thats the shift lock control solenoid. It is a safety device that prevents a shift out of park when the engine is running. It makes you press the brake pedal before moving the shift lever out of the park position.

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    She Moderator KahanaReef's Avatar
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    Arctic White
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    Ah... line lock.

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    Red
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    Ok - I replaced the valve body with another that CPT sent but made no difference. Is there any way for the trans to shift into 2nd when in manual 1 @ WOT & 20mph stomp?My original factory trans would hold till shifted -don't know what to do next. Have had everything checked twice. Will hold in drive till 6000 rpm -will hold any other gear in manual - just not first.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redss70396 View Post
    Ok - I replaced the valve body with another that CPT sent but made no difference. Is there any way for the trans to shift into 2nd when in manual 1 @ WOT & 20mph stomp?My original factory trans would hold till shifted -don't know what to do next. Have had everything checked twice. Will hold in drive till 6000 rpm -will hold any other gear in manual - just not first.
    I have had this problem 2 times now but mine have always followed up eventually with a catastrophic failure. What plants and sun-shell did they build it with? what has happened with mine is the sun-shell cracked the first time but not all the way through so after I beat the living piss out of it for 3 months so my warranty would cover the repair I finally broke the sun-shell. the second time it did not do it for very long because I broke one of the plants next to the rivet and it exploded in noises that had people at bus stops jumping (literally they jumped over the bench) for cover as it would wind out first and shifted to third with a massive explosion each time as I limped home lol. Can't say for sure but if the sun-shell has a manufacturing flaw or has cracked then it can cause that. It is an internal problem most of the time and not a problem with the PCM. The first one I had the same problem that it shifted fine in over drive possiton but as soon as I manually selected 1st it would be very iratic about when it shifted but it never got to the red line. It would shift some times at 4500 and then others at 500 and others at 5300 and even sometimes at 3500. Even though I had my foot planted and still had the shifter in 1st it would shift on it's own. I had a local trans guy help me try and diagnose it and he made a box with LEDS that showed us when the PCM commanded the solenoids on and off. There are 2 and one of them may be a problem as well but you usually have a problem in another gear as well. So as the PCM changed the state of the solenoids the lights would change, but the odd thing was the trans did not shift when the pcm told it to. It shifted when it wanted to and it would get stuck in between 2nd and first. but all the solenoids where in the right positions. I had the electronics all changed, I had all the solenoids changed, and still no change in the way it shifted or getting stuck between 2nd and 1st on the down shift. I had this transmission out and back to the builder 3 times and each time it ran great on thier hand held controller, but every time I put it back in the car it ran the same way. We went through every wire in the engine and trans harness (yes 2 days of hell) and found nothing wrong. I even changed the PCM 2 times and no change. In the end I blew it up and took it back and had the builder build me another dud. lol. At least I know it's them and not my car now. I think you can swap the solenoids from one side to the other and see if it follows to another gear, and you can have them send you a harness as well to make sure it's not that. Check the plug that plugs into the trans and add a little dielectric grease to the cars plug. Other than that the last thing to make sure it's not on your end is to check all the sensors and wires back to the PCM to make sure they are all fine but it is a major PITA.

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    You have nailed it -exactly what's going on.Everything was perfect before the trans was installed. The new valve body they sent had a different shift kit and all new solenoids. When I began to remove the original valve body the gasket was blown out at the manual valve side of the body. It had the new revised gasket from Precision that was supposed to prevent this from happening.Also the builder ( CPT ) says they use only Beast Shell in the level 3 trans. The trans shifted so hard at part throttle it was ridiculous so when they sent the replacement valve body they toned it down abit- but not enough. I have a1970 Chevelle SS with 602 flywheel hp and TCI Turbo 400 Streetfighter trans which is going strong after 5 years of punishment ( Mobil 1 fluid ) and it never shifted this hard- just firm.I don't know if it is worth it to screw with this builder anymore as he said the 4l60e works best when left in drive. Real jerk. A $1,899.00 lesson learned from buying from the Internet.Maybe I can remove it and get it to someone local and salvage most of it before I ruin it. I can't thank you enough for your helping me ,This is turning out to be the best thing I have found on the internet. You people are great and I look forward to helping anyone I can. Thanks

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redss70396 View Post
    I don't know if it is worth it to screw with this builder anymore as he said the 4l60e works best when left in drive. Real jerk.
    They do work best when left in Drive or OD. It has been the experience around here that you will get faster 1/4 mile times when you let the computer shift for you.
    That being said, your builder should try to fix the problem with Manual 1 not working properly.

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    Ok - so I am really confussed as to the operation of these transmissions while held in manual 1. I have owened 3 SS Camaros-2001,2001,& 2002 year models with auto trans. All worked in manual 1 till the rev limit cut out. My 1998 GMC Z71 will hold all the way to rev or fuel cutout. At work we have 2 Chevy Colorado pickups with 4 cyl engine and auto trans and they both hold 1st while in manual 1 till redline .But today I was told by several trans. builders that they never heard of these transmissions able to do this. They said while held in manual 1 the computer would shift anyway to 2nd gear , but I know better. Could SLP - when doing the SS conversion for GM had replaced the 1st gear valve to one that lets this happen ? Anyway , the guy that does the warranty work for CPT(very nice) is going to send the Transgo shift kit with the valve that allows 1st to hold. Also sending the springs for 1-2 servo as the builder left them out which causes a very hard part throttle shift. Also had GM replace one of the SS transmissions undre factory warranty and it held in 1st.

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    Sorry for the misspelled words-can't type and think that quick --54 years too old !!

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    I think it should hold manual 1 until you move the shifter somewhere else. Here it is straight from the GM service manual
    Quote Originally Posted by GM service manual
    Important: The manual valve hydraulically can override the shift solenoids. Only in D4 do the shift solenoid states totally determine what gear the transmission is in. In the other manual valve positions, the transmission shifts hydraulically and the shift solenoid states CATCH UP when the throttle position and the vehicle speed fall into the correct ranges.

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    That is how all the GM cars and trucks I have driven worked. Strange as it may be , I called Perfomabuilt Transmissions before you answered and they told me they have NEVER heard of an 4l60e or any elctronically shifted GM trans holding in manual ! I can't believe these trans builders - what gives - how do you get an honest answer anymore. I didn't design these transmissions but I do know how they are supposed to operate. Maybe someone from Performabuilt can tell you and I different !!My guy doing the warranty has finally admitted that not all the Transgo shift kits contain the valve for holding 1st , so must be something to do with the shift kit that deletes manual !.My next call will be to Transgo to see if I can get the truth. What is everyone trying to hide except shoddy work.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    It broken man I'm telling you I had that problem and everyone here said the same thing. Change the electronics or it's not possible for it to do that. lol With these built trans for some reason thats the way they react when they break. I went through 3 different forums and all said the same thing that it's impossible for that to happen. need less to say I just beat the piss out of mine until it broke but you have to be careful because next it will start missing 2nd gear like a manual with a bad clutch. I did that several times it was no fun being all over the rev limiter. Literally would not catch 2nd until I back off more than half.

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    I am sure it isn't the solenoids as when they sent me a different valve body it had all new electronics. Now something else is happening - the speedometer started going crazy,so I replaced the sensor. Now it is worse and the car will buck and try to shut down at WOT. It drives perfect until you floor it then it takes off hard then shuts down and holds rpm till you let off . Then if you get back on it hauls again then shuts down. Drive normal and all is ok. Tried new TPS .MAF Idle control motor. Then I parked this crap and got in old faithful--1970 Chevelle SS 496 - they sure as hell can,t make them like this anymore. If I ever get the Camaro to run right I think I might sell it. Way to much money to play with.Is there any way to determine if the PCM is the problem ?Also the no hold in manual 1 was from the very first drive. How the hell could it be broke when it was new ? And when left in drive it works perfect - untill this speedo crap started happening. I guess I'm taking it back to the Tuner and cough out more $$$. With all I have in this car I could have bought another Chevelle and had something I can wrench on !!
    Last edited by redss70396; 11-07-2010 at 05:01 PM.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redss70396 View Post
    I am sure it isn't the solenoids as when they sent me a different valve body it had all new electronics. Now something else is happening - the speedometer started going crazy,so I replaced the sensor. Now it is worse and the car will buck and try to shut down at WOT. It drives perfect until you floor it then it takes off hard then shuts down and holds rpm till you let off . Then if you get back on it hauls again then shuts down. Drive normal and all is ok. Tried new TPS .MAF Idle control motor. Then I parked this crap and got in old faithful--1970 Chevelle SS 496 - they sure as hell can,t make them like this anymore. If I ever get the Camaro to run right I think I might sell it. Way to much money to play with.Is there any way to determine if the PCM is the problem ?Also the no hold in manual 1 was from the very first drive. How the hell could it be broke when it was new ? And when left in drive it works perfect - untill this speedo crap started happening. I guess I'm taking it back to the Tuner and cough out more $$$. With all I have in this car I could have bought another Chevelle and had something I can wrench on !!
    Not sure what you mean by it holding 1st since new. Do you mean the since the car was new or just the trans? If it is just from a new trans I am telling you it's in the trans unless you did something else at the same time like a tune or changed electrical or sensors on the engine. My trans was a mega monster stage 2 and only 1 week old when it did it. I chased that problem for 3 freakin months pulling the trans, electronics, going through every wire in the engine bay and checking the pcm for codes, calling the builder every day for a week, taking the trans out and back to them 3 times. They never found a problem and did everything you have done like pulling the valve body and changing it and replacing all of the electronics in the trans. In the PCM nothing was ever found in the pcm because it was a mechanical problem in the trans. As far as the pcm knew the trans was working good enough to not throw a code because the problem isn't constant. Did the old trans run correct before the trans swap? Did the old one do the same thing or even something odd? PCM's don't go bad unless the car gets struck by lightning or hit in an accident and even then a bad PCM is hard to find. Have you asked the tuner about this problem? We need to know what work was done to the car before the problem started.

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    By new I mean as supplied from GM. The OEM trans would hold 1st gear in manual 1 - always. The built trans from the git go would not.The builder instructed me to retune the car to factory line pressure as the shift kit that he installed ups the line pressure.We did this by retune.Transgo says that when installing shift kit you must replace the manual 1 valve with their valve and then it will correct the problem. This is my next step as well as putting back the 1-2 accumulator spings they left out which causes a very hard part throttle shift.I will let you know how this works. The trans works so well in drive it is crazy.Any idea what is causing the speedometer to go haywire under WOT only and the engine to stumble and not rev ? Part throttle to mid throttle car runs perfect -just WOT all hell breaks loose. This started after I replaced the valve body- It is worse after I replaced the sensor. I am not trying to dispute what you are telling me - just new to all this and trying to learn all I can.This will be my last attempt at trans fix - then I ship back or dispute credit card charges - Thank you for your help and not giving up on me.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redss70396 View Post
    By new I mean as supplied from GM. The OEM trans would hold 1st gear in manual 1 - always. The built trans from the git go would not.The builder instructed me to retune the car to factory line pressure as the shift kit that he installed ups the line pressure.We did this by retune.Transgo says that when installing shift kit you must replace the manual 1 valve with their valve and then it will correct the problem. This is my next step as well as putting back the 1-2 accumulator spings they left out which causes a very hard part throttle shift.I will let you know how this works. The trans works so well in drive it is crazy.Any idea what is causing the speedometer to go haywire under WOT only and the engine to stumble and not rev ? Part throttle to mid throttle car runs perfect -just WOT all hell breaks loose. This started after I replaced the valve body- It is worse after I replaced the sensor. I am not trying to dispute what you are telling me - just new to all this and trying to learn all I can.This will be my last attempt at trans fix - then I ship back or dispute credit card charges - Thank you for your help and not giving up on me.
    Where did you get the VSS from?
    Yea I know it's a PIA but I just telling you my crazy story and hope that yours is nothing like mine but the Speedo works throught the pickup or VSS you bought. Only thing I can say is check the grounds and make sure the trans is grounded good. sometimes those VSS plugs on the cars harness go bad from being in an odd position all their life. Check that and make sure the part in the trans is lined up and tight on the output shaft. other wise take it back and try another.

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