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need education on stalls ASAP

This is a discussion on need education on stalls ASAP within the Automatic Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; So it seems like everyone is telling me that i need a higher stall whether i go with H/C/I or ...

  1. #1
    The red dragon bpopham22's Avatar
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    2001 pontiac WS6

    need education on stalls ASAP

    So it seems like everyone is telling me that i need a higher stall whether i go with H/C/I or a supercharger. Why would i need a higher stall with a supercharger? i dont want to lose any of my low end driveability and i dont want to launch my car across every intersection i come to.(no matter how fun it might be) What is a stock stall at rpm wise because i believe i am confused. Shouldnt it be low, like just over 1200 rpms or something? It just seems kind of pointless to me to install a higher converter when im not racing the car at the track every week. But then again i dont know anything about converters so please......educate me

  2. #2
    Member pewterz55's Avatar
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    light pewter metallic
    1999 z28

    a higher stall will get you off the line quicker and put/keep you in your power band if my reading has done me right?(not positive on that) but why put a charger on or H/C/I if your not going to be racing it? just curious

  3. #3
    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    2002 Z28 A4 NBM
    Sadly now demodded :(

    Word to the wise: Don't daily drive your race car and don't race your daily driver...

    That being said these cars utlize a "lock up" style torque converter. When you're in OD and you hit a given speed (as preprogrammed into the PCM) you'll feel the TC "lock Up" (feels like another shift) and the rpm's will drop and it'll act just like a regular TC until up hit the loud pedal.

    My 02 goes up around 2500-3000 during normal driving, shifts to 2nd, 3rd then OD (all the while basically at 2500-3000rpm) and then, at ~40mph the TC hits lock up and the rpms go back to normal. See sig for mods...

    You want to have a stall that is right at or just above where your combo starts making torque. My engine is stock other than exhaust and I have a 3400 stall. I could DD it if I wished but I bought another car for that as I want to keep the miles low for racing...
    67 Camaro: K-K + 797-z (look it up), 454/Th400/4.10 12-bolt = 6mpg, PS/PDB/PW tilt, tach, gauges...

    2005 Corvette LS2/M6 Magnetic Red Metallic (What else would it be?) w/ Cashmere interior

    2002 Z28: NBM/Tan, MTI smooth lid, smooth bellows, !AIR, !cats, 1-3/4" QTP SS LT's, 2-1/2" TD's with X-pipe, MagnaFlows dumped at axle, custom welded SFC's, MidWest Chassis body mount adjustable T/A, 3400 stall, 3.23 gears (was 2.73). Tuned: 343rwhp/357rwt (before TD's). Best: 12.559 @ 108+, 1.73 60' @ 3500' DA w/MT ET Street DR's.

    Carbon footprint? CLOWN SHOE!

  4. #4
    The red dragon bpopham22's Avatar
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    red
    2001 pontiac WS6

    because im 26 yrs old and have always wanted a ws6 since i was like 16. Ive had it for 2 yrs now and i love it. Ive also also wanted to put a SC or a turbo on a v-8 just to show all the ricers out there that mod for mod, u cant beat american muscle. And i know i said i dont race but i go to the track once maybe twice a year,getting off the line isnt my concern because it seems like launching my car at 4000 rpms would break something.its when im going 40 or 50 that i really want to accelerate. And i dont want to have to run 4.56 gears to do that.

  5. #5
    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    2002 Z28 A4 NBM
    Sadly now demodded :(

    Also, you don't just put a stall into one of these tranny's. It's not like the old days (trust me I'm from the old days).

    At the minimum you'll need a tranny cooler, probably internal upgrades (some of the factory parts are marginal at best), a good shift kit, a competent tuner to delete torque management from the pcm and reprogram everything so it'll work properly.







    <---- Like I said, I'm from the old days...

  6. #6
    The red dragon bpopham22's Avatar
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    red
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    thats not a problem i planned on getting a stage 2 performabuilt and a moser 12 bolt before the SC thats why im asking the questions. So im not too worried about the internal stuff

  7. #7
    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    2002 Z28 A4 NBM
    Sadly now demodded :(

    Like post #2 stated: A higher stall will get you off of the line quicker.

    Read my sig: With the 3400 stall, suspension work and sticky tires I cut a 1.73 60', even though my engine is internally and externally (except for exhaust) stock. Just the TC alone shaved ~.5 seconds off of my 1/4 mile time.

    Truth be told, 1st thing you want to do is put on a good set of sub-frame connectors. F-bodies have been a "twist-o-flex" design since day 1.

  8. #8
    The red dragon bpopham22's Avatar
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    red
    2001 pontiac WS6

    ive already got umi subframes,lower control arms,dbl adj panhard bar,strut tower brace. and koni 4/4 with strano lowering springs

  9. #9
    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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  10. #10
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    the best suggestion I could make is to find someone local that already has a stall and ask for a ride in their car. Most people probably wouldn't hesitate to take you for a spin. I think most people just have a wrong understanding of how a stall actually feels in a car. It's dollar for dollar the best mod you can do to an auto. That being said you should match the stall up for your mods so if I were you I would decide on a path for the car then buy a stall that fits. Forced induction is going to like a much tighter stall than a heads/cam set up.

  11. #11
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    blacker than wesleysnipes
    98' trans am

    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    the best suggestion I could make is to find someone local that already has a stall and ask for a ride in their car. Most people probably wouldn't hesitate to take you for a spin. I think most people just have a wrong understanding of how a stall actually feels in a car. It's dollar for dollar the best mod you can do to an auto. That being said you should match the stall up for your mods so if I were you I would decide on a path for the car then buy a stall that fits. Forced induction is going to like a much tighter stall than a heads/cam set up.
    x2. for h/c/i you are in the range of 3600-4k for a F/I app you need a different stall..one that is a little more beefy and also with a lower rating in the 3000-3400.

  12. #12
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    you should match the stall up for your mods so if I were you I would decide on a path for the car then buy a stall that fits. Forced induction is going to like a much tighter stall than a heads/cam set up.

    This is right on the money. With forced induction, you more than likely won't be able to buy an "off the shelf" stall. I never do that anyway,,,but with a power adder it becomes even more involved in torque converter selection such as balloon plates etc.....
    You'll need to decide on a path for the car, and stick with it. A converter for a power adder car will drive tight in an N/A setup and vise versa. Mix matching the two don't work well together.

  13. #13
    Senior Member rajiv1998's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    This is right on the money. With forced induction, you more than likely won't be able to buy an "off the shelf" stall. I never do that anyway,,,but with a power adder it becomes even more involved in torque converter selection such as balloon plates etc.....
    You'll need to decide on a path for the car, and stick with it. A converter for a power adder car will drive tight in an N/A setup and vise versa. Mix matching the two don't work well together.
    x2. FI is a much more complicated subject than N/A. A lot of timing and tuning has to be done to ensure the boost kicks in at the right time and everything works like its supposed to. If I were you I would concentrate on my engine first. It will be a lot cheaper to swap out a stall than it is to a motor/procharger.
    "Life is to short to drive a slow car"

    Gone but not forgoten: 1998 Pontiac Trans Am M6 "The Black Bandit"
    Bought- 11-18-05
    Sold- 10-14-08

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