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just installed 3500 TCI torque converter

This is a discussion on just installed 3500 TCI torque converter within the Automatic Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; And I'm have a couple of problems. I don't know if this is related or not, but after driving it ...

  1. #1
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    just installed 3500 TCI torque converter

    And I'm have a couple of problems. I don't know if this is related or not, but after driving it for a while I noticed the smell of coolant. I checked the radiator cap and I could feel and hear the coolant bubbling. Second, whenever it's in drive my rpms will surge from 500 to 600 rpms. At full throttle it won't shift into third gear. It'll just bounce off the rev limiter. When I drive it normally I know its shifting but I can't really tell because the rpms won't really drop much. Well I would appreciate it if anybody could help me out. Thanks

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    Anyone?

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    Your going to need a tune, a mail order tune will work just fine. no need for a fancy dyno tune just yet. i plan on ordering mine from speed inc., only 150$. youll want them to remove torque management(this may be causing the bouncing of the rev limiter) you also may want them to change the rev limiter. the reason the rpms wont drop is because your TC may not lock up with your tranny until 50mph or so, when it locks rpms will drop significantly. you can have them change that as well. now im no expert in the tranny world, in fact im just learned alot of this stuff. so if im wrong just go ahead and correct me guys. thanks.

  4. #4
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    Thanks NxLS1496, I also found out my a/c vents don't blow out air know. Any idea how this might be related? They worked before the torque converter was installed.

  5. #5
    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    you need a conveter tune.
    2000 nhra edition formula
    a few bolt ons, 379 rwhp
    11.96 @113.25

  6. #6
    Slower Than a 3rd Gen juiced99ws6's Avatar
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    as far as the rpms bouncing and the rev limiter it may be a tuning issue. the rpms will never drop as low as they used to and the car will drive much differently than it did before because a converter does the same as slipping the clutch up to your designated rpm for it to lock. however once you level out your speed s said before it will lock up generally in fourth gear. the ac and cooling problem sounds like more of a belt issue seeing as they are both belt driven.. any changes in your power steering or your batteries voltage indication?

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    No I didn't notice any changes in my power steering or my voltage indication.

  8. #8
    Member GA Country Boy's Avatar
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    It also sounds like your engine may be overheating. People often forget that high stall torque converters basically introduce slippage to the drive system especially at lower speeds like in stop and go driving. This situation combined with hot weather will create an overheating situation real easy. It also causes the transmission to overheat. I have experienced this problem and my TC is only a 2800 (Yank). I installed a larger Be-Cool radiator, a larger B&M Trans pan that added three quarts of fluid, and a B&M external Trans Cooler with an automatic thermostatically operated fan. The next time this occurs check your temperatures, both engine and transmission (I assume you can check both). Be
    warned that high transmission temperatures (overheating) will soon lead to transmission failure, so this situation should be corrected as soon as possible.
    Also as been previously stated by other posters, you need to get a tune. You never should be hitting your rev limiter. I have never used a 'package' tune so I can't comment on their effectiveness.
    Michael
    In GA waving from '02 C5 LS1, Z51, D1SC, 60lb injectors,RPM level 5-4L60E, 3:42, Yank 3600, QA1-12 ways, MTI long headers, high flow cats, Borlas, Wilwood, 603rwhp, 542rwtq.(DynoJet 248-C) 10.89@127.57 on street tires, Race Weight 3,640 lbs

  9. #9
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    i'd advise against removing torque mang. It can really F' up your trans ..like stated before ..trans cooler ..and a nice tune will do you good..my .02

  10. #10
    1 BAD ASS BOWTIE StangKiller615's Avatar
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    I thought you had to get a transmission cooler when you upgrade to a larger stall convert? Guys back me up here.

  11. #11
    98 trans am F-Bomb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GA Country Boy View Post
    It also sounds like your engine may be overheating. People often forget that high stall torque converters basically introduce slippage to the drive system especially at lower speeds like in stop and go driving. This situation combined with hot weather will create an overheating situation real easy. It also causes the transmission to overheat. I have experienced this problem and my TC is only a 2800 (Yank). I installed a larger Be-Cool radiator, a larger B&M Trans pan that added three quarts of fluid, and a B&M external Trans Cooler with an automatic thermostatically operated fan. The next time this occurs check your temperatures, both engine and transmission (I assume you can check both). Be
    warned that high transmission temperatures (overheating) will soon lead to transmission failure, so this situation should be corrected as soon as possible.
    Also as been previously stated by other posters, you need to get a tune. You never should be hitting your rev limiter. I have never used a 'package' tune so I can't comment on their effectiveness.
    ya what he said! i have a 3800 stahl vigilante and had the whole tranny built to withstand the force. kevlar bands new wire harness and upgraded the gear sprags, a billett aluminum tranny cooler and made all new fluid lines from front to back. ny 98 t/a will not idol correctly unless its in neutral, between the cam intake and stahl she will get it. oh yea and the best way to tune the car is at the dyno with a physical person reading the input and output, the hp will not read correctly with a stahl converter anyway im not sure what the give or take is in the hp on a dyno. last time i was on it it made 438

  12. #12
    Member performabuilt's Avatar
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    Agree you need a tune many people have the bouncing of rev after installing a very high stall converter we have people call all the time about it ,A large transmission cooler is allways advisable particularly with hi stalls ,
    As for your a/c vents I would check vacume lines under hood for that .
    performabuilt

  13. #13
    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    i'd advise against removing torque mang. It can really F' up your trans ..like stated before ..trans cooler ..and a nice tune will do you good..my .02
    most people have it removed and no ill effects from TM being deleted.
    mine was deleted also.

  14. #14
    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StangKiller615 View Post
    I thought you had to get a transmission cooler when you upgrade to a larger stall convert? Guys back me up here.
    that is a must!
    bigger pan is also a good idea. the larger pan wont cool down the fluid alot but every little bit helps.

  15. #15
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhraformula View Post
    most people have it removed and no ill effects from TM being deleted.
    mine was deleted also.
    i suppose..but i mean i wouldn't take the risk..the a4s don't need any extra help to fall apart :P but hey i'm a wussy

  16. #16
    Retired NOT tired SteveC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhraformula View Post
    most people have it removed and no ill effects from TM being deleted.
    mine was deleted also.
    I had my TM fully deleted after a Y3000 2.0 STR install, and had a Transgo Shift Kit #3 washer installed by a reputable local transmission shop, I have had no issues what so ever with the transmission or the performance of the vehicle.

    You will need to have the PCM retuned in some areas to get the vehicle to run correctly, and most of all a transmission cooler, I went with the B&M 24K cooler.

    SteveC

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