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how drivable is a 3600 stall?

This is a discussion on how drivable is a 3600 stall? within the Automatic Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; Originally Posted by rel3rd Not always the case. I went from 342's to 410's and gained absolutely nothing in ET ...

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rel3rd View Post
    Not always the case. I went from 342's to 410's and gained absolutely nothing in ET or MPH. All I did was use more gas and trap at a much higher RPM.

    To date, my biggest bang for the buck (after the converter was already in), was the cam swap. Went from 12.66@107 to a best of 11.61@116 with cam and a re-tune being the only changes. With 410's, my best was 11.63@116, same 1.57 sixty foots.
    man, i guess it depends on the car. I went from 3.23's to a 4.10 in my 94 Z when i had it and picked up 3/10ths. I didn't get before and after on the SS, but i went from a 3.23 to a 3.73 and i could feel a pretty decent difference, but i didn't really go with that drastic of a jump that time

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    Lookin for a race 99HuggerOrangeZ's Avatar
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    2004 Black Escalade EXT
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    My experience with the stall is this:

    It makes the car feel pretty sluggish under normal driving conditions. The best way to describe it is it feels like the car has gained a lot of weight or pulling a trailer because like mention before it takes a little more RPM to move the car. However when when flooring the car from a dead stop you will do one of two things: 1) burn the rubber off your tires 2) or if you have sticky tires and hook you will launch very hard as opposed to the stock stall.

    Now keep in mind that I have the 2.73 gears and my power levels are fairly modest at this point so that doesn't help. The good ol' boys at EPP told me after the install, the more power I make the better the new converter will feel/perform. I plan on putting some 3.42's in this spring so I will keep anyone updated on how it makes the car feel then (hope it will tighten it up a little).

    And like rel3rd said the PI converters tend to stall higher than what they say. Mine is a 3200 but it feels more like a 3400-3600.
    99 Hugger Orange Z28 A4 3.42's
    Mod's SLP Cold Air Intake, Pacesetter LT's, ORY, Electric Cut-out, Magnaflow Exhaust, Vig. 3200 Stall, Spohn LCA's, UMI SFC's, 17x9.5 and 18x10.5 Black Z06 Motorsports

  3. #23
    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    with a good stall you can gain .5 in the quarter......there's very little out there that'll do that for $400-$600.
    I went from 13.09 to 12.66 and I think it'll go a little quicker.

  4. #24
    TunedByFrost supporter rel3rd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99HuggerOrangeZ View Post
    It makes the car feel pretty sluggish under normal driving conditions. The best way to describe it is it feels like the car has gained a lot of weight or pulling a trailer because like mention before it takes a little more RPM to move the car.
    Almost like trying to run through a swimming pool, lol. You KNOW you should be going faster, but you just can't...

    I think you'll love the 342's...kind of a happy medium, and you should notice a tighter "feel" to your converter IMO. I know from 342's to 410's I noticed a definite difference...and of course, noticed when I swapped back to 342's yet again.

  5. #25
    Lookin for a race 99HuggerOrangeZ's Avatar
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    2004 Black Escalade EXT
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    Quote Originally Posted by rel3rd View Post
    Almost like trying to run through a swimming pool, lol. You KNOW you should be going faster, but you just can't...

    I think you'll love the 342's...kind of a happy medium, and you should notice a tighter "feel" to your converter IMO. I know from 342's to 410's I noticed a definite difference...and of course, noticed when I swapped back to 342's yet again.
    Yeah I got a feeling I'm gonna love the 3.42's. Like you said you notice the difference from them to the 4.10's and thats like a .68 gear change and the change from 2.73's to 3.42's is .69. But if I don't I can always go up to 3.73's or 4.10's.

    I watched the video of your car, man does thing get off the line. What suspension mods do you have?

  6. #26
    LS1 chosen son lemons12's Avatar
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    VIG 4k with 410s...

    in normal driving conditions like around town and stuff i usually pick up around 2500 rpms... and i usually take off faster than the cars around me... if i take off around 2300 rpms i am usually picking up at the same speed as everyone else..


    FWIW, i have an ms4 in my car.. smaller cam will give you a better pick up in the 2500 rpm range..

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    LS1 chosen son lemons12's Avatar
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    o and FWIW.... the mechanic is TOTALLY wrong.. back in the day a 3600 stall wouldnt hardly get you moving till 3600... just times have changed dramatically..

  8. #28
    TunedByFrost supporter rel3rd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99HuggerOrangeZ View Post
    I watched the video of your car, man does thing get off the line. What suspension mods do you have?
    Thanks, as for suspension mods?
    None really...

    Boxed in stock panhard bar and boxed in stock lower control arms w/poly bushings
    Stock torque arm w/poly bushing
    1LE springs from an LT1 car (what I was told), and Bilstein HD shocks all around.
    Swaybars in place, as delivered from factory and 3755# race weight...

    Best 60 foot (w/setup above): 1.57 (average 1.59)

    Early in 2008, the car had Spohn chassis mount torque arm (set at -2*),
    Spohn double adjustable panhard bar,
    Spohn 1" rear swaybar,
    Strange adjustable rear shocks,
    Front swaybar removed

    Best 60 foot (w/setup above): 1.58 (average 1.60)

    Best ET/MPH with 342's: 11.61@116
    Best ET/MPH with 410's: 11.63@116
    Sixty foots didn't change with gear swap either. I guess my car is dialed in the best it can be with what it has?

    Needless to say, I sold everything suspension-wisethat everyone said I just "had to have" to hook and run well and put my car back to comfy cruise mode, lol...My car's always been deadly consistent and loves to be hotlapped. Damn shame I redlight all the time, or I could probably make some money bracket racing.

    I actually swapped my ProStars for some 17x9.5/17x11 TT2's, and will be swapping on my Strano springs soon too. Car "should" be a little slower, but who knows? I guess time will tell.
    Last edited by rel3rd; 01-28-2009 at 02:53 PM.
    2002 Silverado Z71 ECSB HPTuners tuned by yours truly
    2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 6.0, 4L80E, Rear mount Turbo, etc...
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  9. #29
    TunedByFrost supporter rel3rd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lemons12 View Post
    ... just times have changed dramatically..
    man, you ain't lyin'....

    I remember when a small block Chevrolet V8 was wheezing at 5000 rpms...
    Now my 5.3 equipped truck shifts at 6000...car at 6800, lol.

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    LS1 chosen son lemons12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rel3rd View Post
    Thanks, as for suspension mods?
    None really...

    Boxed in stock panhard bar and boxed in stock lower control arms w/poly bushings
    Stock torque arm w/poly bushing
    1LE springs from an LT1 car (what I was told), and Bilstein HD shocks all around.
    Swaybars in place, as delivered from factory and 3755# race weight...

    Best 60 foot (w/setup above): 1.57 (average 1.59)

    Early in 2008, the car had Spohn chassis mount torque arm (set at -2*),
    Spohn double adjustable panhard bar,
    Spohn 1" rear swaybar,
    Strange adjustable rear shocks,
    Front swaybar removed

    Best 60 foot (w/setup above): 1.58 (average 1.60)

    Best ET/MPH with 342's: 11.61@116
    Best ET/MPH with 410's: 11.63@116
    Sixty foots didn't change with gear swap either. I guess my car is dialed in the best it can be with what it has?

    Needless to say, I sold everything suspension-wisethat everyone said I just "had to have" to hook and run well and put my car back to comfy cruise mode, lol...My car's always been deadly consistent and loves to be hotlapped. Damn shame I redlight all the time, or I could probably make some money bracket racing.

    I actually swapped my ProStars for some 17x9.5/17x11 TT2's, and will be swapping on my Strano springs soon too. Car "should" be a little slower, but who knows? I guess time will tell.
    i have bone stock suspension here also... just !sway bar... cut consistent 1.5s, shooting for low 1.5s when i go back in Feb...
    H/C ls1..

    i think suspension is HIGHLY overrated.. once you get into some SERIOUS power.. sure... but for 600-700 hp and under, a nice big sticky tire works...

    BTW, i cut 1.5s with stock suspension with a 26 inch MT.. race weight when i did those was like 3250..

    Quote Originally Posted by rel3rd View Post
    man, you ain't lyin'....

    I remember when a small block Chevrolet V8 was wheezing at 5000 rpms...
    Now my 5.3 equipped truck shifts at 6000...car at 6800, lol.

  11. #31
    Lookin for a race 99HuggerOrangeZ's Avatar
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    2004 Black Escalade EXT
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    Quote Originally Posted by rel3rd View Post
    Thanks, as for suspension mods?
    None really...

    Boxed in stock panhard bar and boxed in stock lower control arms w/poly bushings
    Stock torque arm w/poly bushing
    1LE springs from an LT1 car (what I was told), and Bilstein HD shocks all around.
    Swaybars in place, as delivered from factory and 3755# race weight...

    Best 60 foot (w/setup above): 1.57 (average 1.59)

    Early in 2008, the car had Spohn chassis mount torque arm (set at -2*),
    Spohn double adjustable panhard bar,
    Spohn 1" rear swaybar,
    Strange adjustable rear shocks,
    Front swaybar removed

    Best 60 foot (w/setup above): 1.58 (average 1.60)

    Best ET/MPH with 342's: 11.61@116
    Best ET/MPH with 410's: 11.63@116
    Sixty foots didn't change with gear swap either. I guess my car is dialed in the best it can be with what it has?

    Needless to say, I sold everything suspension-wisethat everyone said I just "had to have" to hook and run well and put my car back to comfy cruise mode, lol...My car's always been deadly consistent and loves to be hotlapped. Damn shame I redlight all the time, or I could probably make some money bracket racing.

    I actually swapped my ProStars for some 17x9.5/17x11 TT2's, and will be swapping on my Strano springs soon too. Car "should" be a little slower, but who knows? I guess time will tell.

    Wow very interesting info.

    I was about ready to order a spohn torque arm but I think I will hold off. I did however get some spohn rod spherical/poly combo LCA's (I have pretty bad wheel hop on the street with street tires, might be the shocks though) and I think I am going to get some SFC's. Now all I need is a mgnaflow cat back and my gears installed and I will be looking for a H/C package.

  12. #32
    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    with a good stall you can gain .5 in the quarter......there's very little out there that'll do that for $400-$600.
    Thats what i gained. Its the best mod out there for an automatic powered car
    2000 nhra edition formula
    a few bolt ons, 379 rwhp
    11.96 @113.25

  13. #33
    Knight of Chaos xzaero0's Avatar
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    I got 370 gears and a 3k stall and the car loves it. It is alittle sluggish till about 2800rpm for DD but it more than makes up for it with the sound running the extra RPMs from any stop. After you get one you will almost surely drive it more agressively also.

    But if your gonna race it after the stall make sure that you have some good tires.

    Even before I ran with the stall the best I could pull was a 8.6 in the 8th with full bolt ons and exhaust.

    The best I could run after the stall on street tires was a 9.4 in the 8th. I couldnt even get it down trying to feather it out of the hole.

    After the stall and the MTs I was running a 8.2 but I couldnt seem to get the tires hot enough to hold out of the hole. Time for Line Lock now.

  14. #34
    Senior Member qwkgto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by basballny2 View Post
    But if it takes more to get it moving I dont think hes totally wrong, the amount of pedal needed to get it moving would bring it up to that 3600 pretty quick id imagine? Just trying to understand, never had a stalled car.
    I have a 3500 in my gto they move ,just alil to get used to the stall,def. retune,the stall is weird at first but after your used to it,you will not want anything else,they get you in the usable RPM of your power range faster.drives noramal when your not into the throttle,may take a few hundred more RPMs to get car moving when you not mashing the throttle,like I said you will get used to it.
    mods: custom built twins, built 408 w/l92 stock GM heads,GM matching intake,drag bags,frame ties,aluminum drive shaft, performabuilt 4l80e,Yank converter,ohios fastest and quickest 04-06 GTO 9.52 at 144mph. 1.50 60ft on stock rear end and shafts/suspension,on drag radials.

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    Senior Member qwkgto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    with a good stall you can gain .5 in the quarter......there's very little out there that'll do that for $400-$600.
    I agree it will pick you up half a second in the 1/4 mile thats if you have the tire to hook the extra umph you have off the line,I would also suggest a good trans cooler wth a converter heat kills transmissions,and I would not buy a cheapo converter get at least a 3 clutch lock up ,anything less,you will be spending alot of money on trans rebuilt,anyone who has a car with 450rwh or more best to spend the $1000 for a good converter or pay big later!

  16. #36
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwkgto View Post
    I agree it will pick you up half a second in the 1/4 mile thats if you have the tire to hook the extra umph you have off the line,I would also suggest a good trans cooler wth a converter heat kills transmissions,and I would not buy a cheapo converter get at least a 3 clutch lock up ,anything less,you will be spending alot of money on trans rebuilt,anyone who has a car with 450rwh or more best to spend the $1000 for a good converter or pay big later!
    my yank 3600 is coming soon.

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    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    to combat the car being sluggish out of the hole during normal driving, get a higher STR.
    I have a 2.2 1 STR and you would never know my car is stalled.

  18. #38
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    Just do it, I recently had a Yank SS3600 installed and tuned. Yes it takes a little more pedal to move the car but not much much more. It did hurt my around town mileage pretty good, but my Hwy mpg's are the same. I went from a 2.05 60' and 13.26@106.09 to a 1.77 60' and 12.53@108.78, and There was still a tenth in there as I was leaving soft. It was my first time at the track since the install and I wanted to feel it out and not push it too hard. But if you do decide to go ahead with it, please take my advice.
    1. Buy a good stall
    2. You "must" put a Trans cooler on!
    3. You have to get a tune for shifts.
    4. Don't go too small. A 3600 or 3200 convertor is ideal for stock or mild bolt-on LS1.
    Don't go too big either (4400) etc.
    Good luck, and be prepared to giggle like a school girl when you drive it the first time.

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    After reading this I think I need to get a stall lol and some gears 3.73. I'm currently stock A4.
    Just had a disagreement woth a retard yesterday telling me if I changed to 3.73 gears that my top end would drop to 105 mph max. I think he was pissed because his professionaly built 540HP 69 Camaro get need get away from my 02 Z28.

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    LS1 chosen son lemons12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1972_Z-28 View Post
    After reading this I think I need to get a stall lol and some gears 3.73. I'm currently stock A4.
    Just had a disagreement woth a retard yesterday telling me if I changed to 3.73 gears that my top end would drop to 105 mph max. I think he was pissed because his professionaly built 540HP 69 Camaro get need get away from my 02 Z28.
    i have 410s on a 26 inch tire and i can do 140...

    yes, get a stall!

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