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how drivable is a 3600 stall?

This is a discussion on how drivable is a 3600 stall? within the Automatic Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; Some mechanic tried talkin me out of buying a 3600 stall for my a4 ls1.. He said my car won't ...

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    Member mr_r0bert0's Avatar
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    how drivable is a 3600 stall?

    Some mechanic tried talkin me out of buying a 3600 stall for my a4 ls1.. He said my car won't move until I hit 3600 rpms and im pretty sure that's wrong and I just want other opinions on that high of a stall...

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    Senior Member Zboner's Avatar
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    wrong

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    Member adam3566's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr_r0bert0 View Post
    Some mechanic tried talkin me out of buying a 3600 stall for my a4 ls1.. He said my car won't move until I hit 3600 rpms and im pretty sure that's wrong and I just want other opinions on that high of a stall...
    If your mechanic actually told you that, I would HIGHLY suggest going someplace else because he is a complete moron. A 3600 isn't that bad at all for driving. Depends if you are going to be doing a lot of daily driving, highway, stop and go, if your cammed, quite a few things to consider. But again take your car someplace else because your mechanic is retarded and doesn't know shit obviously.

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    He is wrong. But it will take a bit more pedal to move.
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    Member mr_r0bert0's Avatar
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    Yeah he's not my mechanic and I was positive that was wrong and he just work in the next building over so I was talkin to him when it was slow.. Trust me I don't go there

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    Member adam3566's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert View Post
    He is wrong. But it will take a bit more pedal to move.
    Sorry to highjack your thread but, how do you like those 6000k for your truck? Wouldn't mind getting a set for mine, just curious on how they came out and how they look.

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    NY Representative basballny2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert View Post
    He is wrong. But it will take a bit more pedal to move.
    How's he wrong then? If it takes more pedal to move than i dont see how he can be wrong.

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    Blown, Stroked, & Sprayed

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    Quote Originally Posted by adam3566 View Post
    Sorry to highjack your thread but, how do you like those 6000k for your truck? Wouldn't mind getting a set for mine, just curious on how they came out and how they look.
    They look great. Pics are in my album.

    Quote Originally Posted by basballny2 View Post
    How's he wrong then? If it takes more pedal to move than i dont see how he can be wrong.
    Because the car will move well before the stall speed. Just not as much as before.

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    NY Representative basballny2's Avatar
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    But if it takes more to get it moving I dont think hes totally wrong, the amount of pedal needed to get it moving would bring it up to that 3600 pretty quick id imagine? Just trying to understand, never had a stalled car.

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    Member adam3566's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert View Post
    They look great. Pics are in my album.



    Because the car will move well before the stall speed. Just not as much as before.
    Yeah they do. Probably going to have to order a set tonight. They look great on there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by basballny2 View Post
    But if it takes more to get it moving I dont think hes totally wrong, the amount of pedal needed to get it moving would bring it up to that 3600 pretty quick id imagine? Just trying to understand, never had a stalled car.
    Just think of it as a slipping clutch. You will move, you just need more pedal to move faster.

    Quote Originally Posted by adam3566 View Post
    Yeah they do. Probably going to have to order a set tonight. They look great on there.
    I should get some for the Camaro. I didn't know they were so inexpensive now.

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    The "slipping clutch" analogy is spot on. It requires a bit more pedal initially but after lockup it's just like a normal converter.

    For instance, my 3400 stall lets the engine rev to between 2000-3000 (depending on how much foot I put into it - approx 3400 if I mash it) where it pretty much stays while it accelerates and shifts to 2nd, 3rd and then OD (under normal acceleration - higher rpm if accelerating quicker). At 40mph it hits lock up (unless it's under full throttle) which turns it into a normal converter (It drops back to 1500rpm think of it as an "extra gear" sorta). Down shifting runs it back into the high stall mode.

    MPG suffers a little as my car went from 15 mpg to ~12 mpg. Then again I drive a little more aggresively too.

    Do not forget supporting mods for this. Much in the same way a slipping clutch will generate excessive heat, a slipping TC will do the same. You'll need a tranny cooler at the least. Mine required Torque Management delete along with a shift kit and reprogramming.

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    And don't forget better tires.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS View Post
    The "slipping clutch" analogy is spot on. It requires a bit more pedal initially but after lockup it's just like a normal converter.

    For instance, my 3400 stall lets the engine rev to between 2000-3000 (depending on how much foot I put into it - approx 3400 if I mash it) where it pretty much stays while it accelerates and shifts to 2nd, 3rd and then OD (under normal acceleration - higher rpm if accelerating quicker). At 40mph it hits lock up (unless it's under full throttle) which turns it into a normal converter (It drops back to 1500rpm think of it as an "extra gear" sorta). Down shifting runs it back into the high stall mode.

    MPG suffers a little as my car went from 15 mpg to ~12 mpg. Then again I drive a little more aggresively too.

    Do not forget supporting mods for this. Much in the same way a slipping clutch will generate excessive heat, a slipping TC will do the same. You'll need a tranny cooler at the least. Mine required Torque Management delete along with a shift kit and reprogramming.
    that pretty much sums it up. thats what happens with a stall.

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    TunedByFrost supporter rel3rd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr_r0bert0 View Post
    Some mechanic tried talkin me out of buying a 3600 stall for my a4 ls1.. He said my car won't move until I hit 3600 rpms and im pretty sure that's wrong and I just want other opinions on that high of a stall...
    Like already said, that "mechanic" obviously isn't familiar with aftermarket higher stall torque converters. Just be aware that not all "3600 stall" converters act the same way. I have a Precision Industries Vigilante 3600 stall in my car, and while it is absolutely great with my aftermarket cam (on the street or the strip), IMHO, it was too much slip for a stock cammed engine and a daily driver. In other words, it was a bit much for a stock engine and 342 gears and I honestly think it would have ran better with a 3000-3200 stall at that time. The Yank converters seem to be a bit "tighter" and better suited on the street, while still giving you that "launchability" at the strip. PI converters tend to be a little looser than they claim. Mine shows converter "flashing" to about 4200 rpms on datalogs and dyno pulls.

    You DEFINITELY want to add a quality transmission oil cooler, as well as having the PCM tuned for the new converter. A shift kit is not a necessity though. I've had the converter and bone stock 4l60e transmission in my car without an issue for nearly 2 years and many, many dragstrip runs. If tuner is good, transmission settings can be tweaked to provide crisp upshifts without any kits or whatever. Frost got mine dialed in nicely after the first clueless tuner left it 100% untouched. Here's a video. You'll notice no flare up before shifts, and no overlap or slippage either. Just tuning help from Frost.



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    eh, looks like everybody pretty much summed it up already. i just wanted to drop in and say i have a Vigilante 3500 in my car on a stock retuned tranny and it's very streetable. It does flash a little higher than that like the other guy stated though

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    I'm excited about doing this mod to my car this spring. Of course a better Tranny cooler is a must. Builds up way too much heat from what I've heard that the stock tranny cooler cannot handle.

    I think a 3600 stall along with headers and a retune would be some good "after intake lid" mod. I might look into an LS6 intake manifold but, no guarantees on that one.

    Stall is one of the biggest bangs for the buck from what I've heard from many different people.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BIG GUNS View Post
    Stall is one of the biggest bangs for the buck from what I've heard from many different people.
    or a gear or nitrous. gear is actually the cheapest with the most bang

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    TunedByFrost supporter rel3rd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rooster99SS View Post
    gear is actually the cheapest with the most bang
    Not always the case. I went from 342's to 410's and gained absolutely nothing in ET or MPH. All I did was use more gas and trap at a much higher RPM.

    To date, my biggest bang for the buck (after the converter was already in), was the cam swap. Went from 12.66@107 to a best of 11.61@116 with cam and a re-tune being the only changes. With 410's, my best was 11.63@116, same 1.57 sixty foots.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    with a good stall you can gain .5 in the quarter......there's very little out there that'll do that for $400-$600.

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