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how does it work

This is a discussion on how does it work within the Automatic Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; i might make myself sound like an retard, but what is a stall what does it do for my car ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member Z28boy2000's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro B4C

    how does it work

    i might make myself sound like an retard, but what is a stall what does it do for my car and should i do it before or after i have my cam installed. thanks
    2000 B4C Special Service Package Z28 - Kooks 1&7/8 Stepped 2'' - TSP Torquer V.2 - FAST 92/92 - BDR 4000 Conveter - Xtreme Trans Stage II - Full UMI Suspension - Pacesetter LT's - Comp Drag Shocks - Magnaflow - Cutout - ZO6 MAF - FTP LID - Street Tuned -

  2. #2
    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Z28boy2000's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro B4C

    thanks

  4. #4
    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    2002 Z28 A4 NBM
    Sadly now demodded :(

    In simple terms the torque converter is the clutch for an automatic (sort of). With an M6 you "slip the clutch" to get the car moving. You rev the engine and drop the clutch at a higher rpm to shock the suspension for a quicker start off the line. A high stall TC provides essentially the same effect of dumping the clutch at a higher rpm so as to put the engine closer to it's peak torque band allowing a harder/faster acceleration form launch. Mind you this is a simplified explanation. There is much more going on than this.

    There are several things to consider:
    1. Is this car your daily driver? A high stall converter will have the effect of allowing your engine to rev quicker before the car moves which will cause a decrease in MPG.

    2. Do you know what cam you'll be getting? The ideal situation is matching the TC to the cam. i.e., the beginning of the torque curve of the cam would be the minimum stall required (generally the stall has a higher rpm than the cam).

    There are other things to consider and I'm sure others will chime in on this.

    For myself, I have a 3400 stall TC in my 02 with a stock engine that has supporting mods (LT headers, X-pipe with TD's and 3.73 gears). My car runs mid-12's @ 108 but I now overpower the Nitto DR's I have (because of the "shock" to the suspension due to the stall) and will require better tires (MT ET Streets or equivalent) to shorten my 60' time (best of 1.76). All this without going into the engine. My friends car with equivalent mods (3600 TC) and a mild cam runs 11.70's.

    It all depends on what you want your car to do. In normal driving my car goes to 3K+ rpm (normal acceleration) due to the stall and shifts from 1st to 2nd to 3rd then OD without dropping rpm til it hits lockup at 40mph at which time it acts like a normal TC.

    Another thing: You'll probably want to go thru the tranny and beef certain things up and put a cooler on it also. I upgraded the sun shell and went with better friction disks. it wasn't cheap (~$2,000 for rebuild + TC + cooler + instal/rebuild). Driven normally my car gets ~12 mpg around town.

  5. #5
    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    2002 Z28 A4 NBM
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    Good writeup Preston. I didn't know this was there and you posted it while I was composing a reply.

  6. #6
    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS View Post
    Good writeup Preston. I didn't know this was there and you posted it while I was composing a reply.
    Didn't mean to interrupt your reply

    I took most of that info from Fuddles website if I remember correctly, I really don't deserve the credit for it, just good info to get posted.

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