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Thread: gears/ convetor

  1. #1
    "When performance counts"
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    gears/ convetor

    I'm buying a set of gears and a convertor for my car. I was wondering what, if anything I need to buy besides the gears and convertor. (ie: gaskets, bearings, etc.) I just want to make sure I have everything before I take the car apart.
    Do I need to take the exhaust off to do these jobs?
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tt69camaro
    I'm buying a set of gears and a convertor for my car. I was wondering what, if anything I need to buy besides the gears and convertor. (ie: gaskets, bearings, etc.) I just want to make sure I have everything before I take the car apart.
    use silicone permatex for the cover instead of a gasket. you'll need 2.5 quarts of 75w-90 gear oil. if the bottle doesn't say it's for limited slip applications, then you'll need to get the additive from GM.

    read up on my how to gear swap to see what's all involved in doing one. you'll need dial indicators and marking dye to get the backlash and depth set correctly. http://www.stealthram.com/gearswap.htm

    Quote Originally Posted by tt69camaro
    Do I need to take the exhaust off to do these jobs?
    Thanks
    no.
    Last edited by mrr23; 06-17-2006 at 04:44 PM.
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  3. #3
    "When performance counts"
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    Thanks for the info!

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    I would recommend a new front pump seal while you have the convertor out. Not a "have to" deal but I had to pull my tranny twice because after the convertor swap the front seal leaked. Not a fun thing to do over a $10 part. Watch the little e-clips when you pull the tranny lines off. I lost one and had to buy a pack of 4 from the dealer. I think it was around $40 for the pack. Just pay attention and don't let it go flying when you're pulling it off. Extensions are your friends. Make sure you have a ton of extensions to get at the top bolts going above the tranny lengthwise. I found that several smaller extensions worked a little better than just a couple of long ones because there was more wiggle room. I also took a swivel and put a piece of masking tape around the joint to control the wobble and that helped on a couple of the top bolts. Having a helper around is almost mandatory. Getting the tranny on and off the pins is a bitch by yourself and a helper can hold the light while you work the 8 miles of extensions above the tranny.

  5. #5
    "When performance counts"
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    Thanks, I'll make sure I have enought extentions handy. I'm guesing from the tailshaft to the front of the trans or more should be enough. I'm waiting for the convertor and gears to show up. Maybe next weekend I can do this job.

    I was wondering about taking out the check ball in the front shaft. I used to do that with my GN's to increase line pressure. I also used to lock up the convertor with a switch. That is something else that I haven't heard too many people doing? Why?

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Seems like I've read of people doing both of those but all of that can be done with LS1edit. It allows you to up the line pressure and you can set your lockup points where ever you want them.

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tt69camaro
    I was wondering about taking out the check ball in the front shaft. I used to do that with my GN's to increase line pressure. I also used to lock up the convertor with a switch. That is something else that I haven't heard too many people doing? Why?
    the check ball in the input shaft will just add pressure to the lock up. not anywhere else that i'm aware of.

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