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Convertor Question

This is a discussion on Convertor Question within the Automatic Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; I was speaking with a guy today about making some mods to my car. He says that if I chance ...

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    Junior Member Bama99z's Avatar
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    Convertor Question

    I was speaking with a guy today about making some mods to my car. He says that if I chance the stock convertor to a good aftermarket 2800~3000 stall that would be better money spent than the lt's & y pipe. Do ya'll agree? I am very confussed on this because the car is still factory.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    yes he is correct. A 3000 stall converter is one of the best mods for a LS1 camaro.

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    I don't remember seeing it mentioned in any of the threads I have read -- what is stock stall? 1,800 - 2,000?

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    more like 1600

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    A torque converter with a stall speed that low will be a waste of money and time. You'll regret it later. Even stock, don't consider anything less than 3200. 3600 would be ideal for both stock and later once you do intake and exhaust work.

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    Member NoscamaroSS's Avatar
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    Ive got a Performabuilt 3500 in mine, and I wish I had something more on the line of a 4000. Even though, its already all over the place on my street tires.
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    *Old Time* 10.90@ 125mph

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    Junior Member dpeach's Avatar
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    What about the converter lockup? If I am driving just city and im going like 40 is the converter just going to be spinning at 3200? When does it lockup. I was told that it wont lockup until higher cruising speeds. This might be a dumb question but I want to get it figured out before i buy one :/

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpeach View Post
    What about the converter lockup? If I am driving just city and im going like 40 is the converter just going to be spinning at 3200? When does it lockup. I was told that it wont lockup until higher cruising speeds. This might be a dumb question but I want to get it figured out before i buy one :/
    It locks up at 40-45mph range. I can't remember the exact speed but somewhere in there and I believe a tuner can set the speed it locks up as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dpeach View Post
    What about the converter lockup? If I am driving just city and im going like 40 is the converter just going to be spinning at 3200? When does it lockup. I was told that it wont lockup until higher cruising speeds. This might be a dumb question but I want to get it figured out before i buy one :/
    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    It locks up at 40-45mph range. I can't remember the exact speed but somewhere in there and I believe a tuner can set the speed it locks up as well.
    this is what i was worried about. so you're saying with a higher stall you're not running around with the engine revving constantly at lower speeds, is the lockup based only on mph.?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    It locks up at 40-45mph range. I can't remember the exact speed but somewhere in there and I believe a tuner can set the speed it locks up as well.
    Same question I have -- if you go with a higher stall, will the driveability be adversely affected? I understand that an aftermarket trans cooler is also recommended. Should you run this in series with the built in cooler, or route it just to the aftermarket cooler provided it is sized and located correctly?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dklowrider View Post
    this is what i was worried about. so you're saying with a higher stall you're not running around with the engine revving constantly at lower speeds, is the lockup based only on mph.?
    Most stalls less than 4000 have a lockup. As long as the convertor has a lockup, once it locks(lets say 45mph), you have normal driving. The motor is not running 3000 rpms at 65mph. More like 1800-2000 rpms at 65mph.


    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Same question I have -- if you go with a higher stall, will the driveability be adversely affected? I understand that an aftermarket trans cooler is also recommended. Should you run this in series with the built in cooler, or route it just to the aftermarket cooler provided it is sized and located correctly?
    If you have a stall with no lockup(usually 4000 and bigger don't have a lockup) you will constantly be running high RPMs. Your MPG will drop considerably. I would not get a stall without a lockup on a consistently street driven car. As long as your stall has a lockup, you can maintain very good driveability on the highway etc.

    An aftermarket cooler is a MUST. Heat is the biggest killer of auto trannies. If you don't run an aftermarket cooler with a stall, expect your tranny to die rather quickly. Run it in series with the built in cooler.

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    that sounds ok, i just remember way back when, some of us [not me] who ran automatics, usually w/ big blocks, seemed to be constantantly revved up whenever trying to increase speed even in normal driving, but when you stand on it, look out. i still cant get it in my head why 3k stall wouldnt be plenty for a street car w/ stock cam.

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    Bringing old thread to life but I just had a 3k stall installed along with a gear change from 2.73--3.42. My question is how can I tell what "lockup speed" is and I was also under the impression the at idle my car should not roll forward. Been nice to the car since I was told to take it easy and drive normal for about 500 miles. All my other hot rods had 3 pedals so this "stall convertor" stuff is new to me. I have lost about 6 mpg since the change also is this normal? Had headers and a "tune" done at the same time as the stall and gear and so far not really impressed but I haven't nailed from a stand still yet and held, it does spin the tires easier and very low speeds but if I nail at say 40 mph I feel no difference than before the mods. Any suggestions would be appreaciated.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1972_Z-28 View Post
    Bringing old thread to life but I just had a 3k stall installed along with a gear change from 2.73--3.42. My question is how can I tell what "lockup speed" is and I was also under the impression the at idle my car should not roll forward. Been nice to the car since I was told to take it easy and drive normal for about 500 miles. All my other hot rods had 3 pedals so this "stall convertor" stuff is new to me. I have lost about 6 mpg since the change also is this normal? Had headers and a "tune" done at the same time as the stall and gear and so far not really impressed but I haven't nailed from a stand still yet and held, it does spin the tires easier and very low speeds but if I nail at say 40 mph I feel no difference than before the mods. Any suggestions would be appreaciated.
    Did you have a tune done?

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    Convertor Lockup is controller by your CPU and should have been set by the tuner that did your car. You need to call and ask him what he set it at and if its not locking up at that speed you need to take it back to him. He should have done it when he recalibrated your speedometer for your new gear ratio.

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    you can set the lockup to the speed you want with a tuner.
    I'm running a 3,800 stall in my goat and dropped the lockup speed down to 40 mph in 3rd and 4th to make it more street mpg friendly.
    also as said above, a tranny cooler is a must.

    for a street driven car with a 4l60e you really need a lockup converter.....driving around with a non-lockup, or unlocked converter will generate a lot of heat, and heat is what will kill the tranny

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    Yes, had tune done after install, was also told the the speedo wouldn't change with the gear change. Not real happy with the shop I took my car to, they never answer the phone nor questions when I stop by and I'm not even sure what brand convertor I have at this point. May just have to find another shop to get it done right.
    Did have a tranny cooler installed. This weekend the service engine came on and the it felt like the tranny was slipping but after turning off the car the tranny felt like it did before but the service engine light is still on. I will take it back by them again and see what they say and see if they will tell me what convertor I hvae.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bama99z View Post
    I was speaking with a guy today about making some mods to my car. He says that if I chance the stock convertor to a good aftermarket 2800~3000 stall that would be better money spent than the lt's & y pipe. Do ya'll agree? I am very confussed on this because the car is still factory.
    Dont get stall first, i got a 300 stall, and didnt see a improvent much. I just now got Lt's.. much better! So get the lt's!! And tune then i would say a 3500 stall. I have a Yank 3000. Wish i would had gone bigger.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Well it's an auto and you have it stalled plus gears so you are going to loose the around town fuel millage. Highway speeds should be ok as long as it was a lockup converter they put in there. All tc stalls are going to feel the same if when you nail the gas the trans is shifting to a gear were the engine rpm speed is above the stall point. only if you are running a 4k+ will it help but you don't need that for the street. A stall is ment to bring an auto to life off the line. most of the time when the trans down shifts it will end up way above the converters stall point. Pull that thing up to a stop light, don't go full on the converter but just a bit to bring the engine off idel and into were the cam starts to build power and then leave like that and see what you think. you can try and go all the way up on the converter but you wont get full torque build up that way. That is the way a stall is used. no other use for it really.

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