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Confused now B&M only and sid 3200rpm is too high

This is a discussion on Confused now B&M only and sid 3200rpm is too high within the Automatic Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; convertor brands such as B&M,TCI,Hughes are production line manufactured and typically a stock item at the places we like to ...

  1. #21
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    1998 Z28

    convertor brands such as B&M,TCI,Hughes are production line manufactured and typically a stock item at the places we like to go shop for our needs. brands like Yank and CircleD,and others, are custom made for the application and because of that,stores don't list/show them.
    anything less than 3000 stall rpm would be dissappointing. since your OEM stall is 1800rpm stall,doubling that to a 3500rpm stall typically/generally provides satisfaction.

  2. #22
    Retired NOT tired SteveC's Avatar
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    2001 Z28 (Sara)

    A side point, purchase a SF-29 race grade flexplate, and some ARP grade 8 bolts, when you change your converter you are removing 3 of the 5 bolts that hold the flexplate anyway, so as long as you are in there .......

    Do not forget a aftermarket transmission cooler, and a shift kit.

    SteveC

  3. #23
    Senior Member JoshuaGrooms83's Avatar
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    Would a 3200 be ok for a DD with some ocasional RR or AutoX? I know anything over 3000 is gonna be good for drag. running a stock LS1 as of now. stock rear gears, guessing i have the 2.73s in there or whatever the lowesr one is cars a stock 98 TA for the most part. for now

  4. #24
    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    Tanks a lot

    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    You'll definately enjoy driving it after the stall converter. I also run a 3400 in mine and it just has a couple of bolt ons, namely headers and an off road Y.
    I had planned a camshaft upgrade that still hasn't happened, so I did the converter first and it's been that way ever since.

    It drives just fine as a near stocker with the converter. Dipped into the 12's on stock rubber with just the above changes. The car was previously stuck at 13.20's with the stock converter. So it's completely changed the attitude of the car, yet still easily driveable, which is actually what the car is for most of the time.

    These LS1's, even in stock form, work well with loose converters. These engines are rather small by todays standards (only 346 cubes) with somewhat large 200cc intake runners they are a bit soggy in power down low (below 25-3000 rpm), and don't make peak torque until close to 4,000 rpm. Not what you want a tight converter behind. Simply put, a 3,000+ converter makes it come alive.
    It maks it easie to make the changes when you hear it from someone that did it alredy I am so anxious to buy the parts and can't wait for summer

  5. #25
    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    Thanks for the heads up

    Quote Originally Posted by SteveC View Post
    A side point, purchase a SF-29 race grade flexplate, and some ARP grade 8 bolts, when you change your converter you are removing 3 of the 5 bolts that hold the flexplate anyway, so as long as you are in there .......

    Do not forget a aftermarket transmission cooler, and a shift kit.

    SteveC
    Appreciate that I will I was going to buy a converter and it comes with clutches I think he said and a B&M cooler He told me a shift kit was not nescassary as it was electronic

  6. #26
    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    Same question as me

    Quote Originally Posted by JoshuaGrooms83 View Post
    Would a 3200 be ok for a DD with some ocasional RR or AutoX? I know anything over 3000 is gonna be good for drag. running a stock LS1 as of now. stock rear gears, guessing i have the 2.73s in there or whatever the lowesr one is cars a stock 98 TA for the most part. for now
    Yep as per these guys and I jkust called one of our sponsors and they said perfecto 3200 to 3600 seems to be the proper converter Lokk in your door and if it has a code GU5 you have 3:23's if not it's 2:73's like mine

    My 99 with 109000 miles had 3:23's and I did notice a difference of the line but the converter will fixe that I can't wait and I ure hope I will love it as you guys do

  7. #27
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    You'll be happy I guarantee it.

    Picking a stall number you want is a bit tricky. Depends on who you want to go with. Some manufactures build their converters to drive a little tighter than others, the number they provide is just a ballpark basically.

    For instance, I was going to use a Vigilante, and they recommended a 3200 (but can't remember which STR) for the same car with the camshaft I had planned. I kinda felt that was tighter than I really wanted, but seeing so many vigilante converters in action and knowing they worked and worked good, I was going to take their advice. They offered one free restall too if I remember right.

    I called a few others, and Fuddle recommended a 3400 stall with a 2.1 STR, so I knew it would hit hard. Talking to some other members I went with this converter along with the upgraded larger lockup clutch for another $200.
    I'm happy with it. I'd say it actually drives around a little loose compared to some other stalled cars I have, but I don't have the cam in the car yet, which will tighten it up a tad.

  8. #28
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Yeah but Orions truck is pink. Go with a man color at the least.

    I gotta quit picking on Orion someday......nah

    Orion is correct....I am as old school as still is alive.....and yes I came from the stump pullers (427Chevy/389 GTO /396 Chevelle/Z28 etc.) and a high stall was something I had to "learn"and these new fangled LSX motors
    We are living the heyday of muscle cars....it was not in the 60's....it is today.
    It is the reason I do so much work on the kids cars....the kids in my small town all "soup up" their cars and they know I will help and they canuse my tools/my rules and they all come to the house....keep the hobby alive man....pass it on to the younger generation.

    What were we talking about?

  9. #29
    Retired NOT tired SteveC's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Durango View Post
    Appreciate that I will I was going to buy a converter and it comes with clutches I think he said and a B&M cooler He told me a shift kit was not nescassary as it was electronic
    A "Transgo" shift kit will replace and beefup some of the internal parts of the transmission, replacing plastic parts with metal parts, I also replaced my 2-4 servo (external on side of transmission) with a "Superior" billet aluminum race unit for crisper shifts.

    The entire process is more complicated than just replacing the converter, you will need several adjustments to the PCM (computer tune) to make everything work correctly, shift points, idle, lockup, which is best done on a dyno.

    SteveC

  10. #30
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    The shift kit will allow much higher pressure (shift firmness) over a trannie with the lil plastic parts in it. Snap your neck type shift firmness.

  11. #31
    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Durango View Post
    Ok I went to order som parts at a local speed shop and they confused the heck out of me They told me I shouln't buy a high stall like that because I didn't have enough HP They were going to sell me a 2200 to 2400rpm and they don't carry Yank only B&M I've asked questions about stll's before and everyone are saying 3200rpm

    I'm thinkin headers high flow cats y pipe exchaust and stall

    OR

    Hood intake an stall for now and th rest next year with a tune probably this strategy for now...... What do I do?????
    no less than 3500. buy online. the stall is not about the hp. which is most abundant above 4k rpms and up. its about tq to get the car off the line. which is made in the mid 3k rpms and up

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