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changing trans fluid???

This is a discussion on changing trans fluid??? within the Automatic Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; not the act of actually doing it, but should it be done at all between 0 and say 60,000 miles ...

  1. #1
    the cake is a lie twozs's Avatar
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    changing trans fluid???

    not the act of actually doing it, but should it be done at all between 0 and say 60,000 miles or say 0 and 80,000 miles if there is no visible ware or smell to it . th manual has frequent changes and they have obviously been missed. but dip stick inspection and pan inspection was vigilant with no leaks.. or should i just leave it as some auto trans gm cars become "accustom" to their fluid?
    Last edited by twozs; 08-06-2010 at 09:46 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    every 20k if you use standard fluid and every 30k to 40 with close monitoring if you use a high quality synthetic.

  3. #3
    Member excrider121's Avatar
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    Since it's a manual, I'd change it.

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    Stockitie Stock Stock 95camaroZNC's Avatar
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    I have the same question on a 4l60, and whats the best stuff to put in it? How hard is it to do to just change it? No idea whats in it now, but its starting to shift a little ruff and the other owner probably never changed it, so advise?

    Sorry for the thread jack but i have the same question.

  5. #5
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Just jack it up and remove the pan. Let it drain etc. There's still plenty of dirty fluid in the converter, but you'll have to pay someone to do a "true" flush.

  6. #6
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    I would change auto transmission fluid every 25,000 to 30,000 miles in our cars. Easy to do, but can be a bit messy as there is no drain plug in the pan. You'll want a large oil drain pan of sorts to put under the transmission. Start by loosening all the bolts just a bit and then pick which corner you want to drop the fluid from. You will want to remove the bolts in that area and the gradually work back from the corner. The idea is to drop just one corner (without bending the pan) so that most of the fluid will run out. You may have to tap the pan or gently pry down to break the seal.

    After the fluid is mostly dropped, go ahead and unbolt the pan the rest of the way and carefully dump out the remaining fluid. The valve body will continue to drip fluid for quite some time, so make sure you leave something under the car to catch it. Clean the pan out good, especially the magnetic strip in the bottom. I used a can of brake clean and hosed it down good. My recollection is that the filter simply presses into the seal (it may have a bolt or three retaining it as well -- can't recall). Remove the filter and then the seal from the valve body. You need to be careful that you don't bugger up the seal bore in the valve body. My recollection it that I use a pair of pliers to collapse the seal a bit so that it would fall out.

    Put a little ATF on your new seal and tap it up into place. Follow this with your new filter and then install the gasket and pan. You will want to put a little silicone or thread sealant on the bolt threads as they do loosen up. Cross tighten the pan bolts a little at a time. Make sure you install the shift cable bracket in its place. I don't recall the torque for the bolts, probably 12-15 ft.lbs. or so -- it's not much. Once you have the pan in place, re-fill the transmission through the dipstick tube with the correct fluid. This is important: DO NOT OVERFILL OR UNDERFILL THE TRANSMISSION. Make sure you get it right. The check procedure calls for a warmed up transmission that is held in each gear for a few seconds and then put back into park with the engine running. After you have run the car a time or two, get back under it and re-torque your pan bolts as they will loosen up and weep fluid.

  7. #7
    Stockitie Stock Stock 95camaroZNC's Avatar
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    falk that sounds awful.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 95camaroZNC View Post
    falk that sounds awful.

    It's easy. Much nicer than flushing the cooling system.

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    Stockitie Stock Stock 95camaroZNC's Avatar
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    What would you recommend putting in it? Is there something really really good to put in it or?

  10. #10
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Just your typical ATF. Dextron III if I remember right.

    I hear synthetic runs cooler. You can do some research online if you care to.

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    dex 6

  12. #12
    Member excrider121's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95camaroZNC View Post
    falk that sounds awful.
    Naa, it's not bad at all. Takes about an hour if you've been, uh...

  13. #13
    Member ls1wallen's Avatar
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    Is there a write up on this? Possibly with pics?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1wallen View Post
    Is there a write up on this? Possibly with pics?

    Post 6 pretty much covers it. I never took pics when I did mine as it just wasn't that interesting.

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    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1wallen View Post
    Is there a write up on this? Possibly with pics?
    If you have any questions just ask. I'll walk you through it.

  16. #16
    Retired NOT tired SteveC's Avatar
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    I would use Dextron III and change it every 40K, I would not run synthetic oil in the transmission, every shop I have spoken to has told me to stay away from it.

    SteveC

  17. #17
    Member 99'CajunFirehawk157's Avatar
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    How many omit the seal change on a 4l60e? I hear its a boitch to get out and back in...?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99'CajunFirehawk157 View Post
    How many omit the seal change on a 4l60e? I hear its a boitch to get out and back in...?

    The seal for the filter? That wasn't bad at all.

  19. #19
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    I can't remember how, but I think mine was stuck. I managed somehow.

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