A4 4l60e Trans won't shift out of 1st gear

[CobraKilla]

I was hearing some grinding at low speeds in 1st gear...thought it was just my brakes rubbing due to the fact I drive the car about twice a month. Continued to drive parked the car. Got in to take off the other day and took off fine just wouldnt shift into 2nd gear or any other gear even manually...I checked the fluid and it was full. I have a Trans Go shift kit and Tranny cooler. Its a 4l60e trans. I also have a hypertech hand held tuner. Any and all advice would b appreciated.

Or is it toast and time to upgrade

Thanks

[35th-ANV-SS]

I don't know all that much about auto transmissions, but it staying in only 1 gear seems to me like it may be in limp mode or a defective speed sensor.

[kenro23]

Mine did that and when i took it to the transmission shop he got in and backed it up and pulled right back in the spot. Said, "yep transmission done". He said reverse and third are linked together which is how he could tell by just going in reverse. If this is the case and you do have to replace it and dont have a stall, its a good time to get one. You will already be paying a couple grand.

[My00Z28]

I don't know all that much about auto transmissions, but it staying in only 1 gear seems to me like it may be in limp mode or a defective speed sensor.

isnt if the tranny is sent to limp mode the transmission defaults to either second or third gear?

[35th-ANV-SS]

isnt if the tranny is sent to limp mode the transmission defaults to either second or third gear?

I think you have reverse and 3rd only, but can shift into second manually. So with that said, probably isn't the OP's problem.

However, I found this awesome write-up on 4L60e tranny issues! Possibly sticky worthy

Common failures on 4L60E, symptom < cause > any possible repair:

1. Slow, slipping or no reverse: “lo-reverse” clutches are worn out, fluid leak in the reverse apply circuit, or broken sunshell. It is possible to remedy a fluid problem by removing the checkball from its cage in the case in the rear of the trans may help (must remove valvebody), or adding a high-viscosity additive such as Lucas Transmission additive or other seal restorer product. May also have worn boost valve (can replace in the pan).

2. 1-2 shift does not happen at WOT until you let off the gas: Best case: try replacing the TPS. Middle case: leak in the 2nd gear apply circuit (servo assembly or 1-2 accumulator). Doublecheck by using the pressure gauge and watch for a big drop when the PCM commands 2nd gear. Worst case: poor line pressure rise (see below).

3. 1-2 Shift shudder at WOT; delayed or abnormal 1-2 shift; There's a problem ONLY on the 1-2 shift: 1-2 accumulator piston cracked or stuck cocked in the bore. Check the yellow spring inside the accum housing for breakage. Also, if the accumulator housing walls are scored, the housing must be replaced. Easy fix in the pan.

4. 1-2 shift is delayed and harsh, may not shift into OD: Check TPS for smooth and linear electrical response over the entire range of motion. If not, replace.

5. Trans does not upshift out of first, speedometer reads zero at all times: VSS failure. Easy fix on rear of transmission, but xmember must come out to access VSS.

6. No 3rd or 4th gear: “3-4” clutches are worn out. R&R. The car is safe to drive (in 2) until you can get it fixed.

7. Sudden grinding noise with no prior warning primarily in 2nd gear, behavior in reverse may be abnormal; sunshell is fractured. R&R. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

8. 1st and 3rd only, no 2,4 or R; sunshell is fractured or splines are sheared off. R&R. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

9. No 2nd or 4th gear. 2-4 band is slipping. Servo seals may be damaged (can be fixed without removing trans. Otherwise, 2-4 band is worn out. R&R.

10. Trans shifts into gear harshly, car feels sluggish off the line, No 1st, 4th or TCC lockup available, Manual 2nd, 3rd and Reverse are only available gears, CEL is on: Transmision is either in limp-home mode or has lost electrical power. If there are lots of error codes in the PCM, check the underhood fuse that powers the transmission, and if it pops again, look for a short in that circuit like an O2 sensor harness touching exhaust. Otherwise, check PCM codes for a particular fault in the transmission causing the PCM to put it in limp-home mode.

11. No 1st or 4th available; trans shifts 2nd to 3rd by itself in D or OD and locks the converter : ShiftA solenoid failed. Easy fix in the pan. Or a wiring problem from PCM to trans.. or PCM.

12. Car goes into gear but feels very sluggish like the brakes are dragging, but it will roll easily (starts out in 4th gear), you manually shift to 2 to get it moving, once it's moving you put it back in OD and the car shifts 3rd to 4th on its own and locks the converter at the appropriate time: ShiftB solenoid failed: Easy fix in the pan. Or a wiring problem from PCM to trans.. or PCM.

13. No TCC lockup: Brake pedal switches improperly adjusted (always on), TCC solenoid failed (easy fix in the pan), TCC clutch worn out (must remove trans and replace TC).

14. TCC always locked: TCC apply solenoid circuit shorted to ground, TCC solenoid blockage (easy fix in pan), or TC broken (must remove trans and replace TC).

15. Horrible noise in 4th and feels like the brakes are on: overrun clutches are applying due to a cracked or leaking forward piston. Overrun clutches will be worn out after 30 seconds of this behavior. Car can be safely driven in D. R&R.

16. Soft shifting, gradual performance degradation: Poor line pressure rise due to leaking boost valve, clogged EPC filter screen, failing EPC solenoid, or worst case: leaky seals throughout. Transgo HD2-C kit fixes first two without removing trans. Seal restorer may fix last problem, but probably R&R. Also try a transmission flush with BG brand products (Firestone stocks it).

17. No forward movement in OD or D, but L2, L1 and R work: Forward sprag is broken. R&R. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

18. Extremely harsh shifts from P or N, normal shifts at WOT: EPC (Electronic Pressure Control) solenoid failed. Easy fix in pan. Fix as soon as possible or hard parts will eventually break.

19. Loud bang, grinding sound, loss of all gears, and a binding driveshaft: snapped output shaft. Try to wiggle driveshaft - if more than 0.020" play, that's the sign. R&R.

20. Trans seems noisy when moving in 1st and Reverse, noise goes away instantly if you shift to N or the trans goes into 3rd gear: Reaction planetary is worn out due to high miles or insufficient lubrication. Not a critical failure, but not a good sign either. R&R sooner rather than later.

21. No movement in any gear: pump failure, or total loss of fluid. R&R, or refill pan and find the leak. If out of fluid, avoid running the engine until the trans is refilled to avoid pump damage. To check for pump failure, check fluid level with the engine off, then start the engine and recheck fluid level. If level does not go down when engine is running, the pump is broken.

22. Transmission does not shift automatically, only manually. Swap in a known-good PCM, check wiring, check other sensors such as VSS and TPS.

23. 3rd gear starts, can manually shift through all gears. When car has been turned off for a bit, then back on it will run normally.: VSS dropoff w/ Hi-stall converter. The rpms are too high, but VSS is showing no movement. Happens after a tire burning take-off. Doesn't store a code, will not throw a CEL (I've heard that it will store a code if it happens 3 or more times). Cure: Reprogram PCM for VSS dropoff -- PCMforLess knows about it.

24. Fluid leak out of the front of trans where the converter connects; partial or full loss of movement: Front pump bushing walked out. R&R. May have to replace converter also if hub is scored. Note that a leaking front seal usually means the bushing is walking out (i.e. call your local trans shop and schedule an appt.).

25. Torque converter shudder in 4th while lockup is engaged; problem goes away when the brake pedal is pressed slightly to unlock converter. Have a shop verify line pressure, and provided no valves in the TCC hydraulic circuit are worn, replace the torque converter. Also, Lubegard Shudder Fix will at least fix this for awhile. Or try a transmission flush by a shop that uses BG brand products.

26. Shift suddenly become very hard. When going from park to either reverse or drive it slams into gear. 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are also harsh. All gears seems to work. Problem may be intermittent: Check TPS for smooth electrical response. If the response is jumpy or erratic at all, replace TPS.

27. All fluid pumped out through the vent tube: Plugged cooler line. Flush the transmission cooler and cooler lines. Also could be overfiled transmission.

28. Car acts like it's in OD in neutral, car is locked stationary in R, engine feels loaded in P, all four forward positions work fine: R&R: Internal crossleak feeding the forward clutches all the time. Most likely a cracked input housing, or cracked forward piston means forward clutches are fused together. Car can safely be driven gently in forward gears until the repair.

29. Needle bearings in the pan, first gear and/or reverse may be noisy: Either a torrington bearing or a planetary bearing is on its way out. Trans will eventually die a loud, catastrophic death. Cheaper to rebuild now (saves further damage to hard parts), but requires R&R. It is drivable until it breaks.

30. 1-2 or 2-3 shift is slow/soft above part throttle: Trans is on its way out. R&R.

[kenro23]

Very nice

[pajeff02]

That is good info!

Jon: Copy and paste that into a new thread with an appropriate title and let's get it stickied.

[35th-ANV-SS]

Ah ha! Will do Jeff. I just posted a reply in the more stickies wanted thread telling you guys about this. Will do in a few hours. Thanks Jeff.

[tatertot91]

Thats some helpful info to have
Nice find jon

[Datasara]

If you try to shift it manually will it shift? If not one of the primary reasons is the ECM is not seeing the 40 pulse per second so it will never shift. With the grinding noise I would take it to the shop or upgrade unless you know how to rebuild a 4L60E. Check around and find a good tranny shop and talk to them tell them what you are wanting, they can harden your 4L60E and make it perform like what you want. This is normally a lot cheaper than converting to another tranny unless you go with the same 4L60E tranny. Best of luck

[CobraKilla]

I just took it out on the road again to see exactly what was going on...It shifts into 2nd fine...just dont want to shift out of 2nd into 3rd...seemed as if I let off the throttle a little bit it would shift but felt like it was slipping. When I manually shift from 4th to 3rd it felt like it got me into 3rd gear but when I accellerated there was a dead spot. Any other ideas ? I checked the fluid and it is in operating range and pink as the day that it was put in.

[CobraKilla]

I just took it out on the road again to see exactly what was going on...It shifts into 2nd fine...just dont want to shift out of 2nd into 3rd...seemed as if I let off the throttle a little bit it would shift but felt like it was slipping. When I manually shift from 4th to 3rd it felt like it got me into 3rd gear but when I accellerated there was a dead spot. Any other ideas ? I checked the fluid and it is in operating range and pink as the day that it was put in.

[CobraKilla]

Finally got it into the trans shop and it seems that the #1 actuator was sticking open. Not allowing it to close and go into 2nd gear. Trans shop says it was my shift kit that caused it. Supposedly the spring pushed the valve passed it seat and was stuck wide open. Also said my planetary gears were a mess. Don't know if this is true or not being I didn't see any of the old parts but trans back up and running after a supposed rebuild.