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4l60e rebuild-shift kit

This is a discussion on 4l60e rebuild-shift kit within the Automatic Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS Maybe I just need to lock this thread. i think most of it was going pretty ...

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post


    Maybe I just need to lock this thread.
    i think most of it was going pretty good actually. good information, more than 1 way to look at things, etc., then you get one that says everyone has to agree with them or else!

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    Junior Member 2002blackz28's Avatar
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    I started this thread .Sorry for any body getting upset, but I also appreciate all the helpful info.. I would say to anyone thats feeling a little angry or upset about the latest posts they should go out get in there cars go find a junkstang and smoke the pants off them ,,,I know you all will feel alot better afterwards and laugh about. Thanks again for all the info..I will have my car back from the tranny shop tuesday night, So until the next time drive it like you stole it

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dklowrider View Post
    i think most of it was going pretty good actually. good information, more than 1 way to look at things, etc., then you get one that says everyone has to agree with them or else!
    If people continue telling other members their theories are bullshit, its getting locked down. Debate respectfully or don't post, its that simple.

  4. #24
    Member fieropope's Avatar
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    ok jumping in a lil late here but my formula has been running on the stock trans here for over six months ,with the accumulator flipped and the epc bumped1/4 turn it been put through the hell of a 18 yo driver daily and its doing fine barks the hell out of second and still no problems,so id say its a decent way to improve your car on the stock side of things because when you go to more power you need to rebuild the trans anyway. and ive been building race trannys for about a year now so if i didnt think it would handle it it wouldnt have gone in my car.but to end it all ive seen both directions you are arguing about and in all reality THEY BOTH WORK,one is just more expensive than the other . so get the panties out of a bunch and have a beer .

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    its not arguing, its discussing.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dklowrider View Post
    its not arguing, its discussing.
    Well that's what I thought too. But people on here tend to be a bit touchy at times it seems. The wonderfull world of computers with no expression doesn't help matters either. It's almost a bit comical.

  7. #27
    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    LOL I leave for the week and it hits the fan
    Yes you can get rid of torque managment through the PCM and you can do it through the valve body. You can get the shift firmness raised in the PCM and the valve body. Only thing is if you ever have the valve body worked the PCM needs to be stock settings in most cases. If you have a good trans and don't plan on anything other than street driving, PCM tune is the way to go. If you plan on adding good power or doing some racing, throught the trans is the way to go because you still will have flexability in the programming to make more adjustment if needed.
    There are always more than one way to skin a cat. Question is which way is right for you? Only you can really answer that, we don't have the full picture of what your plans are in your brain and some times words don't describe well enough. Good luck with the build.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    I wouldn't think it's anything Frost did. You can up the line pressures for shift firmness in the tune and not affect how the trans goes into gear at all, that's the beauty of it. I'd check with him though as I'm not sure what he would have changed, he has helped me out with tuning using HPtuner and has always steered me right.
    Not a bad idea to check the tranny mount, that's a common issue with these cars.
    frost tells me part of the tune was to up the in gear idle by 50rpms. sent the pcm back for a touch up to bring the rpms back to stock as a starting point, but im not sure thats going to stop the hard shift into drive. might help, but i would think if the idle in neutral was raised it could cause it to drop into drive harder. still going to check the mounts and stuff.

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    just thought i had to reach out to you guys who know the guts of this tranny one more time. if my shift into drive from p,r, or neutral had a delay of maybe a couple seconds [seemed like a half hour sometimes] and going to reverse was always smooth and normal, before my tune. and after the tune the shift to reverse is unchanged but the shift into drive now not only has no delay but is also a pretty hard jerk or lurch or whatever, could this indicate a physical problem with the tranny. like whatever caused the delayed shift before is now allowing the increased pressures to affect the neutral to drive shift even though i understand the tune shouldnt affect this area? some help here would be greatly appreciated as i know what happens, but with this tranny i dont know what im talking about.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    If it was tuned the pressure was raised by that and it wil pop into drive. don't leave slack in the drive line when you are in neutral and shifting to drive. it makes it sound like it is comming apart and is not good for it. I go directly from revers to drive but I stop all the way first and it seems to make the transition better than going from revers to neutral to drive. Pressure is up so it is going to be like you giving it gas at the same time you shift.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JaycenK View Post
    If it was tuned the pressure was raised by that and it wil pop into drive. don't leave slack in the drive line when you are in neutral and shifting to drive. it makes it sound like it is comming apart and is not good for it. I go directly from revers to drive but I stop all the way first and it seems to make the transition better than going from revers to neutral to drive. Pressure is up so it is going to be like you giving it gas at the same time you shift.
    ok so whats happening is normal then. im totally in tune w/ the complete stop, stay on the brakes, dont touch throttle till everything is all in all done etc., but this car has a lot more going on electronically than im used to , and if something is changed i just want to make sure its supposed to do that if you know what i mean. i had concerns w/ the part throttle 1-2 shift and frost explained that to me very nicely, so no problem there, but i had a different understanding about this part. thanks. one thing though, if you go from neutral to drive you get a momentary rise in rpms when you move the shifter to the position and i thought that going from reverse directly would hold the rpms down a little but it does the same thing, like it calls for a little more rpm to make the shift into drive. does that sound normal? maybe all part of increased pressures.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Usually a shift kit dose that but the thing that affects line pressure to change via pcm...uh well it may be affecting your trans. sry I can't be real descriptive but it's been a long week and I would actually have to look at the manual to tell you part names cause I'm just drawin a blank right now.
    What kind of rpms is the motor turning when you shift it?
    Also the delay is not normal unless it is high millage.
    How many miles and when was the fluid and filter last changed?

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    Quote Originally Posted by JaycenK View Post
    Usually a shift kit dose that but the thing that affects line pressure to change via pcm...uh well it may be affecting your trans. sry I can't be real descriptive but it's been a long week and I would actually have to look at the manual to tell you part names cause I'm just drawin a blank right now.
    What kind of rpms is the motor turning when you shift it?
    Also the delay is not normal unless it is high millage.
    How many miles and when was the fluid and filter last changed?
    bought it last oct. w/112k, changed all fluids and filters immediately. only put about 2k since. the tach reads 850 in idle, but im told the pcm is set for 600, and if it was actually idling that fast it would throw a code. blame is on inaccurate tach.? frost bumps the in gear idle to 600 also, is being set back to factory spec of 550 now. ill see if anything changes.

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