1.61 STR too low?

[Wheeler99WS6]

I picked up a Yank SY 3500 off a local guy. when he got it (LS1Tech) he was told it was 2.5 STR and that is what he told me. I had wrote an email to Yank asking them for any info on this TC but didnt get a response until almost 4 weeks after writing them and I went ahead and picked it up...now they are telling me that it is only 1.61 STR. Is this even worth using? All the TC's I know of are at least 2.0 STR. Let me know I may have to try and get my money back.

[juiced99ws6]

ok i am retracting this statement due to conflicting statements elsewhere and I am unablt to find something solid to post in its place on driveability. however this link here MAY explain why some people post information about how streetable there stall converter is. Fuddle racing is a great company and has a ton of good info but as for the best daily driver stall I will still say it is personal preferance and you will have to pick your converter based upon other peoples opinions since the only really consistant information I have found is that companies seem to rate there stall speed and STR however they want. if what is said here is true then that would explain alot of misconceptions such as my own. I have one of Fuddles 2.2 STR converters as I said before and another guy I know had another brand (cant remember which one) with a 2.5 STR and his stall converter was actually tighter and easier to drive than mine but that could be just because it was rated way to high which means that the HIGHER your STR is then the looser your converter will be but will punch harder out of the hole. hope the info I posted helps, i know that visiting a shit ton more links has helped me realize that there is alot of conflicting information out there and makes me want to learn more

http://www.fuddleracing.com/SeeingTh...ndMirrors.html

[Wheeler99WS6]

I am confused? on another forum (fastlsx.com) the administrator said that it would be an awesome DD TC.

[juiced99ws6]

it is truly just personal preference. the looser your converter is the more shock you will get to the wheels and the harder it will be on everything if you beat on the car. also around here most speed limits arent over 30 and my converter doesnt even wanna lock up until after that so it generates alot of heat in my transmission. I personally would go with a tighter one on my next TC install but you would really have to drive a high stalled car and get a feel for it. When I bought mine everyone was saying to go with around a 1.8 for a daily driver and really no higher than a 2.2 but since I was buying a 12 bolt I didnt have to worry about breaking anything and went with the 2.2 and it still feels pretty loose to me, maybe depends on brand as well

[0rion]

I have a little different thinking on stalls. Maybe I'm looking at it wrong too but when I bought mine I asked around and read as much as I could and this was my understanding of STR. After the wheels get rolling STR kind of goes out the window. The stall rating is what will effect driveability the most. For example the stock str is ~1.6 I think and the stall is ~1800. A higher STR will help you get up out of the hole while a higher stall will keep the rpm's up higher. A higher STR will also make the chance of you lighting the tires up greater. The looseness of the verter is determined by the stall rate. You're 1.6 str will still be the same as stock but it will be way looser driving down the road because your stalling twice as high, until it locks up then it drives like stock. I personally went with a 3500 and a str of 1.9. The reasoning was I would rather give a little off the line and be able to hook up than to roast the tires on launch.

[juiced99ws6]

ok thats kinda what I was trying to get out in my last post but Orion definatly said it better. personally I run DRs as daily driver tires and have a 12 bolt so I am not afraid to really try and let it hit out of the hole and would not want an STR that low and since you bought something under a misconception then personally I would want my money back.

[juiced99ws6]

here are some links with write ups that you may find interesting and will help you learn abotu and understand the torque converters better

http://www.fuddleracing.com/WhatConvertersDo.html

http://www.converter.com/torqueratio.htm

[nhraformula]

1.6 is will sloppy.
i have a 2.2 1 str which is nice and tight. you really cant tell i have a T/C in the car unless your a gearhead.

[juiced99ws6]

1.6 is will sloppy.
i have a 2.2 1 str which is nice and tight. you really cant tell i have a T/C in the car unless your a gearhead.

see this right here is EXACTLY why I retracted my first statement. this is what I had said HOWEVER i found information sayign that the higher the STR the LOOSER your converter will feel and that is why there is more shock to the wheels. but I do keep hearing people say this and it was also my belief before yesterday

[bene]

see this right here is EXACTLY why I retracted my first statement. this is what I had said HOWEVER i found information sayign that the higher the STR the LOOSER your converter will feel and that is why there is more shock to the wheels. but I do keep hearing people say this and it was also my belief before yesterday

^^ You are right about shock to the wheels. When I ran last night at the track, I only hooked once and managed a 1.8 60' w/ my BFG KDW2s. After that run its all spin city. BTW, my Yank 3500 have 2.5 STR. Its feels like stock w/ normal driving to me but then again I have 3.42s on the back.

[juiced99ws6]

^^ You are right about shock to the wheels. When I ran last night at the track, I only hooked once and managed a 1.8 60' w/ my BFG KDW2s. After that run its all spin city. BTW, my Yank 3500 have 2.5 STR. Its feels like stock w/ normal driving to me but then again I have 3.42s on the back.

from what I read yesterday and I posted the link above it may feel like stock because most companies really overrate there stall speeds and STRs. I dont know, i just kinda want some solid answers on this subject lol

[juiced99ws6]

this paragraph right here from Fuddle Racing MAY explain alot on "streetability" from other companies however I am going to try and verify there information as well..

With other companies, you often see wildly exaggerated ratings of stall and STR. There are actually ratings released by General Motors that Fuddle Racing uses to rate its converters. We rate STR lower than many of the inflated numbers you will see by other companies because General Motors rates it lower.

Fuddle Racing has had numerous opportunities to go inside the competition's converters and directly see through their smoke and mirrors. What we saw was no surprise to us, but it might be to you. Two examples from two different companies follow.

The first was rated at 3200/2.5. When we opened it and compared their numbers to General Motors' numbers, the converter actually a 2800/1.8. With a stall speed so low, it is no wonder it felt relatively tight on the street. It is also no wonder it did not perform as well as a 3200 should.
The second, from a large company, was rated at 3500/2.5. When inside, it turned out to be a 3200/2.1 when using more accurate General Motors ratings. The performance would be noticeably different with a lower stall compared to what the customer wanted and expected.
Another great misconception and unethical advertisement that flies around some companies is that big diameter converters create high STR. A larger diameter converter creates LESS STR, not more. Perhaps the best example is a 278mm converter. Advertised at 2.25 STR, this converter won't create anywhere near that kind of STR.

[nhraformula]

see this right here is EXACTLY why I retracted my first statement. this is what I had said HOWEVER i found information sayign that the higher the STR the LOOSER your converter will feel and that is why there is more shock to the wheels. but I do keep hearing people say this and it was also my belief before yesterday

higher the str, the tighter its going to feel and the harder its going to hit.
my buddy has a vig 3200 and the str is 1.8. we have exact same mods. his trans feels sloppy compared to mine and he will even admit it.

[juiced99ws6]

that is still a different brand though.. no offense to you nhra cause i know you know your stuff and I had also posted the same thing, higher STR= tighter converter but from what I have been reading lately I dont think that is exactly true. I will not quit looking til i find a really good writeup on this topic.

[nhraformula]

that is still a different brand though.. no offense to you nhra cause i know you know your stuff and I had also posted the same thing, higher STR= tighter converter but from what I have been reading lately I dont think that is exactly true. I will not quit looking til i find a really good writeup on this topic.

best bet, call youre local ls1 tuner.

[nhraformula]

STR = stall torque ratio. The # is how much STR it is, or the torque multiplication factor. Example.... 2.5 str = 2.5 times the amount of torque being applied to the rear tires. A 2.5 str will hit the tire harder(obviously)than a 1.8 or 2.0 str.

As already stated, it all depends on what you want the car to do AND mods/gearing/weight/suspension/tire(read traction).

Best to get w/your vendor of choice and discuss the above and they'll be able to decide what will work best for you.

Good luck!

a high STR hits the tires harder but a low STR is more efficient up top. lower STR's will also feel less tight and than high STR since less torque is being put down from a stop.

personally, if i were getting a stall, i'd get a lower STR. i don't want to kill my tranny and rear with hard launches or ruin my traction, but i want the benefits of big flashes and higher shift extensions that the stall offers. a lower STR will put down more power once you get into the high rpm range and take less away from your traction.

if you're building a track beast, you'll likely want a high STR because you'll be able to launch hard on sticky tires. for a street car like mine that will rarely see the track and never see sticky tires anytime soon, a lower STR is better. it'll preserve your traction and keep you more efficient up top.

what Choco said is true...but around town a higher STR feels better/tighter. i went with a 2.5 str and have no regrets at all...except i wish i would have went 4000 instead of 3600. It definetly hits the tires real hard, be prepared to buy drag radials no matter which converter you buy.

i ordered a 4000 stall with 2.4 str from fuddle. If you think traction will be a problem go lower on the str, if you will be setup for good traction, and wanna launch like a freakin rocket, go higher str. Either way ur gonna need some D/Rs to get a good launch

as far as gas mileage, it shouldnt change too much, unless ur driving habits do. The converter will stil lock up when you cruise so it'll should be the same, its just the stop and go stuff that might hurt ya a bit

With stock converter and cam; I got as high as 27-29 Hwy. After cam/converter swap it dropped down to 23-25 Hwy which ain't really bad. The cam and city driving will effect mileage more. The 2.55 STR makes it feel tighter during city driving.

[juiced99ws6]

a high STR hits the tires harder but a low STR is more efficient up top. lower STR's will also feel less tight and than high STR since less torque is being put down from a stop.

like I said before, this is about identical to my original statement. I had removed it after checking around some other forums and everything because I didnt want information posted by me that was completely ass backwards. I am finding a whole lot more people that agree with the higher STR the tighter feel though, i just wanted to make sure it wasnt just a misconception.

[Wheeler99WS6]

I Will run this Tc for a while and see how it performs as I only drive on the street mainly. (Yank SY 3500 1.61STR)